force 125 stator resitance reading

[fisheymikey]

I would like to clarify something..
i have 600 on one set and 625 on the other.
cdi ignition say the specs are 680-850. does less restance means i have more power or vice versa?
because when you buy a new one the restance is 300 to 400.
can my low restance be the reason for my low spark?

just did also a peak voltage reading between both sets.

on right module 1 stator is puting a woping 450v and climbing

on 2 set im geting 256 steady...

is my stator shot?

thanks

mike

 

[pnwboat]

If you have the original style OEM stator, then your resistance readings are low and it should be replaced. Less resistance on the OEM stator usually means that some of the windings may be shorted together which results in a decrease in voltage output.

A new CDI style stator uses different gauge wire and probably different length of wire in the windings. This is why the resistance readings of a new CDI stator are different than the OEM. They both have the same, or very very close to the same output voltage.

 

[fisheymikey]

wow!!!!
i also did a voltage reading on my trigger cylinder 1&3 are 0.8 and 2&4 are 0.5

does that mean trigger is bad also?? or just the stator is putting out wrong voltage and giving everything wrong measurments!!

thaks PB

 

[fisheymikey]

i have a major question hopefuly some could answer

i dont have the numbers indicating from the trigger sating 1-2-3-4

i did follow the color code but if they are inversed can that cause my dilema. i did match them according the resistance but i have a feeling i could have them wrong

 

[pnwboat]

The voltage readings for the trigger are within the normal range. The trigger signal is not polarized so reversing the wires doesn't matter. As long as each pair of trigger wires is attached to the correct terminal/cylinder, it will work fine.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Mikey, you using an analog or digital meter?
Use an analog meter.
Is it a peak reading meter?
The CDI readings are for their products.
Get a factory manual.

IF??? I can remember I'll try to get a manual and post the specs sometime today.
I suffer from CRS so it might not happen when I say it will??

 

[fisheymikey]

The voltage readings for the trigger are within the normal range. The trigger signal is not polarized so reversing the wires doesn't matter. As long as each pair of trigger wires is attached to the correct terminal/cylinder, it will work fine.

i had only 3 stikers left on my trigger lucky they were on diferent cylinders so i checked resistance on each possible pair and found were each goes.(i think)

 

[fisheymikey]

Mikey, you using an analog or digital meter?
Use an analog meter.
Is it a peak reading meter?
The CDI readings are for their products.
Get a factory manual.

IF??? I can remember I'll try to get a manual and post the specs sometime today.
I suffer from CRS so it might not happen when I say it will??

i am looking for a factory manual do you suggest any? i have a digital with a homemade dva adaptor

here is the latest and greatest after reading the outboardignition troubleshoot here is what they specify

1. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT. i have 0.7v
2. Check the trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), and open to engine ground. i dont have open to ground on all wires. one of the set of each cylinder one reads 50 ohms

i have switch around 4 different cdi packs i get almost everytime different scenarios i.e 1-3 not firing or 4 not firing or even 3 not firing.

does it make sense if there is a bit of voltage threw the cdi pack threw the kill switch its confusing the cdi?

does anyone feel like flying to montreal to solve this (lol)

 

[pnwboat]

Well I was just in Toronto in early July...LOL! Anyways, I believe that when they're talking about battery voltage on the Kill circuit, they're referring to 12 volts. Before you get too focused on the Trigger, I would first replace the stator. It reads out of tolerance as far as resistance, and the voltage output from both windings should be pretty much exactly the same. Since you read 450V and climbing on one winding, and 256v and steady on the other, I would bet that you are looking at a stator issue. Regardless of what CD Module you install, it's probably not going to operate as it should if the stator is not putting out the correct voltage from both windings.

 

[fisheymikey]

i did install a new stator with resistance 756-756 but still having issues.

if possible can we look at the issue from a different approach? what else other that stator,rectifier,coils,and cdi.

can the harness, switch or even a starte selenoid anything else i could verify?

im stating to believe the issue is somewhere else

 

[pnwboat]

Yes I would agree that you have an issue other than the stator. Could you explain what exactly are your symptoms right now? Sounds like you may be having a problem with various cylinders not firing?

 

[gm280]

I've read this list of comments and have to say, I am confused myself. And that is because of the jumping around from one thing to the next. Any time you are trouble shooting anything, you have to attack it with a set stepped plan. That meaning, you test things and rule out good components after verifying they are working properly. I take it this is at least a 1989 version (it wasn't posted but the is the last year Force made a 125 HP engine). And I looked at the ignition components and there is a Trigger, CDI, Stator, Coils and Rectifier that make up the electrical and ignition system. So start verifying the parts that you know are good and stop questioning them after that. I also take it the Stator in this engine is double wound to have two different outputs from one stator assembly. When reading voltage or resistance, the component it attaches too has a lot to do with the readings. So you have to ready them disconnected for the correct readings. Open circuit readings will give totally different outputs then connected readings. I would start with verifying all the coils are good or bad by swapping them into a known good spark circuit. And as each is verified, then don't doubt them after that. Parts don't change from being good in one place and bad in another and then good again... So test this in a logical sequence and find the problem... JMHO!