fogging VS starving the engine?

[tfret]

I've always fogged the engine until it stalls for winter layup. However, this leaves unburned fuel in the carb. Would it be better to first starve the engine of fuel, then fog it while cranking the enigne?

 

[Jeepster04]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

I personally think its best to add marine stabil to the gas and make sure its ran through the carb. No need to run the carb dry.

Fog it till it either dies or almost dies then shut it off.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

I personally think its best to add marine stabil to the gas and make sure its ran through the carb. No need to run the carb dry.

Fog it till it either dies or almost dies then shut it off.

Got to agree with that.
As long as the fuel is treated its better to have the carb full.

 

[Schmoe]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

For the past umpteen years, on the last day before I winterize her, I'll bring a gallon of gas that has been stabilized rather strongly. I'll drive the boat around until I get as close to the Empty reading on the fuel guage as I can, stop the boat, dump the gallon of the stabilized fuel in it, run the boat again for about 20 minutes then head to the boat ramp and pull her out. That way I know I have stabile running through her veins. For fogging, two school of thoughts on that. If you live in the south like I do, your looking at laying up the boat for about 4 to 5 months before pulling it out again. If the boat is covered pretty good, I wouldn't even worry about fogging. It's not going to hurt the engine one bit letting it sit for that short period of time. Now, if it's longer than 6 months, I'd fog or at least run some Marvel Mystery Oil through the carb until it stalls. I've done all of the above and have always got it running on the first crank of the new season. Regardless, I'd surely hit all the grease zerks and swap out the engine oil/filter and outdrive fluid. Store outdrive down and take out the drain plug and battery. Here's a pretty good talk on the subject:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1615950#Post1615950

 

[tfret]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

I do Stabilize the gas first. I usually add it to the tank before I tow it home. Then let it run for a while, get it hot, change the oil, etc. The last thing I do is run anti freeze through the muffs until it comes out the exhaust, then I begin the fogging. So, the gas in the carb is stabilized at that point. I guess this means it's okay to lay there all winter and not varnesh? It always cranks right up in the spring.

 

[zbnutcase]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

You need to run 15-20 mins at idle to 1200rpms(if on muffs) to get stablizer up to carb. I prefer 30 mins. And save your money and just drain it. No need for anti-freeze-unless you truly can't get to drain plugs. 'nutcase

 

[Jeepster04]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

The last thing I do is run anti freeze through the muffs until it comes out the exhaust, then I begin the fogging.

If your engine is raw water cooled then thats a big no no. Always drain the block no matter how you try to run anti freeze through it.

 

[skargo]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

Last trip out I overtreated with stabilizer and ran it for the day. I have FWC, so I ran RV antifreeze through the bypass on the raw side(5 gallons) to get protection through my coolers, etc, then fogged it till it bogged down good.

Should be good to go.

 

[BRG25]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

Does anyone every read their service manual? Many are free downloads up above you know...

9. Prepare carbureted fuel system for extended storage as follows:
a. Remove flame arrestor assembly and start engine.
b. While operating engine at fast idle (1000-1500 rpm), fog internal surfaces of induction
system and combustion chambers by squirting approximately 8 ounces (227
grams) of Quicksilver Storage Seal or SAE 20W engine oil into carburetor bores.
c. Squirt the remaining 2 ounces (57 g) of Storage Seal (or oil) rapidly into carburetor,
just as the engine begins to stall due to lack of fuel. Allow engine to stop.
10. Turn ignition key to OFF position.
11. Refer to ?Flushing Cooling System? and appropriately remove water supply to the seawater
pickup pump.
12. Clean flame arrestor and crankcase ventilation hoses and reinstall.
13. Lubricate all items listed in ?Lubrication? section.
14. Drain seawater section of cooling system as outlined in ?Draining Instructions? section.
15. On Models with Closed Cooling System: Test coolant to ensure that it will withstand
the lowest temperature expected during storage.
16. Service batteries per manufacturer?s instructions.
17. Clean outside of engine and repaint any areas required with Quicksilver Primer and
Spray Paint. After paint has dried, spray Quicksilver Corrosion and Rust Preventive
Type II or wipe down with Quicksilver Storage Seal or SAE 20W engine oil.
18. For sterndrive unit layup, refer to appropriate sterndrive service manual.
NOTE: For additional protection against freezing and rust to the exhaust manifolds and
other components, a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water can be run through the engine
during Power Package Layup.

 

[Schmoe]

Re: fogging VS starving the engine?

Overkill in my opinion. If you know what your doing and take care of your boat, you don't need all those extra steps.