flushing motor with CLR

[mea01]

would it be a good idea to flush out my 3.8 OMC with CLR cleaning liquid in a tub of water with motor running,letting it cirulate several minutes until it open the thermastat and then some?

 

[JustJason]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

if you can get 100+ gallons of CLR at a good price by all means go for it.... and tell us how it works out you.

 

[Don S]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

WHY??????
The reason for flushing is to get out sand, mud, salt, and maybe brackish water out of the cooling system. Nothing that requires CLR.

 

[oops!]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

if your thinking rust......
you need a caustic. clr is sh*t!

this is probably a stupid idea,,,,and ive never tried it on a motor,,,,
how bout muriatic acid? two or three gallons of it in a tub... diluted 30% may work... clean as a whistle. (cheep! 8 bucks a gallon)... add the acid to the water. not the other way round! (wear protective goggles and clothing and a good dual breathing mask)

i run it thru washing machines and dishwashers all the time (one of my jack of all trades is an appliance tech) try it in your dishwasher if your in a well water situation with lots of iron in the water! (just get out of the house when your doing it!....fumes)
i ran it thru my gas tank... on the boat.. and it cleaned it as good as hot tanking it!

*****make sure it is in the open air and you are wearing a proper mask****
not a breathing filter like the doctors wear!

presonally i like crazy ideas.....

your call

 

[oops!]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

btw if any one has a toilet that is hard water stained....or the siding on their house is rust colored...

pour muriatic acid directally on the stained area.

it will be clean enough to brush your teeth in the toilet as soon as the acid touches it! with your house siding ...rinse with water...

no kidding.

they use muriatic acid in swimming pools.
yes... thats right... you and your kids swim in it at the local pool!

thank me later.....
use protective clothing.. a breathing mask and goggles and gloves... all rubber!

 

[mea01]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

sorry guys i meant a tub of water with about a quart of CLR in it.im not that rich or crazy,besides im working night shift for the 12th night in a row.

 

[wca_tim]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

Be careful what you run through... never know whether or not what you decide to clean with is compatible with the seals, gaskets, bearings, bushings, OUTDRIVE, etc...

before you run caustic through your outdrive, try this. Put a piece of aluminum in a bucket of caustic / or any base at fairly high ph and come back to look at it in a day or so... it'll be gone. aluminum forms aluminum hyroxide (water soluble) at higher ph... Note that I learned this by experience... not with an outdrive thank god...

seems like just using decent, detergent would do the trick if all that is really needed is to break up and suspend particulate crap that came from the lake / river...

food for thought...

 

[wca_tim]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

sorry... re-read your post... ooops...

muriatic acis / hydrochloric acid wouldn't dissolve aluminum... It's an acid which means low pH. In my world caustic typically refers to sodium or potassium hydroxide (like what ya find in draino) wich is basic / high pH. that's also the primary reason that industrial cleaners (and dish degertents) work so well... it's also the reason that muriatic acid works so well to clean the scale from detergents.... acids react with bases to form more soluble compounds in that case, and so dissolve the basic scale from the strong detergents... Funny how depending on background we all have such different intrepretations / meanings for the same words....

 

[Bondo]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

Ayuh,..........
I always Chuckle(Ok, Almost LOL) when I see these threads where the poster wants to remove All the Rust in his Engine Block/ Manifolds........

This is Cast Iron we're dealing with here folks,..... It Rusts naturally,....
And,.....
That Rust is actually Protecting the underlying metal.......
Removing the Rust from Cast Iron only Accelerates the process.......
And,....
The Rust you remove Used to be Cast Iron,.....
So you effectively end up with Thinner walls.......

WHY??????
The reason for flushing is to get out sand, mud, salt, and maybe brackish water out of the cooling system. Nothing that requires CLR.

Ayuh,................ Exactly.....................

 

[antsmands]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

I Agreeeeeeeeeeeeee!

 

[mea01]

Re: flushing motor with CLR

WHY??????
The reason for flushing is to get out sand, mud, salt, and maybe brackish water out of the cooling system. Nothing that requires CLR.

Thanks Don S. Thats why I ask the QUESTION??

 

[Gulfcoast_rene]

would it be a good idea to flush out my 3.8 OMC with CLR cleaning liquid in a tub of water with motor running,letting it cirulate several minutes until it open the thermastat and then some?

Old thread , but great topic.

I’m thinking of trying the same thing. If I’m not mistaken the L. In CLR is Lyme. If something designed to remove Lyme didn’t work then why is RydLyme the go to at this point in time. Plus, I don’t see why you would need 100s of gallons as was mentioned previously as when I use it for my shower and faucet heads I simply rig some way to submerge them (usually with a ziploc bag n rubber band.

The outboard can be sealed by removing the lower unit and plugging the impeller line. So filling the system with CLR and letting soak for 24hrs or so should theoretically work IMO. My biggest concern was wether or not it would damage or cause corrosion. With all the ‘hot air’ mentioned in this thread, everyone seemed to agree it wouldn’t cause damage. That given, it couldn’t hurt!

 

[Drcoffee]

WD40 has “Specialist” which does a great job of removing rust by soaking overnight. And it can be recovered and used repeatedly. You dont want anything to ruin gaskets and seals of course

 

[Gulfcoast_rene]

WD40 has “Specialist” which does a great job of removing rust by soaking overnight. And it can be recovered and used repeatedly. You dont want anything to ruin gaskets and seals of course

I just wanna purge my ‘89 Yamaha F90 2 stroke. I have already removed the head cover and cleaned it and replaced/cleaned the thermostat, however before I got the hang of ‘heating’ up the bolts before removing them I broke a couple on the exhaust manifold cover. So if I can clean it without having to retap bolts I would prefer that to get through the season and readdress in winter

 

[jbcurt00]

Refrain from dragging up old inactive topics.

If you'd like to discuss using CLR start a topic about your motor, and include a link back to this topic or any other old inactive topic you want to reference.

Seems the consensus 15yrs ago was CLR wasn't necessary.

CLOSED