Flushing Engine and Out drive

[Jerry San Diego]

I have a 1989 Bayliner Trophy with a OMC 3.0 L engine and Cobra stern drive- I have been keeping it on a trailer and flushing it when I take it out of the water. Boat is run in the Ocean. Recently I have obtained a slip for the boat and am going to put it in the water and leave it in for a while. I heard that as long as it is in the water the flushing is not necessary. How can that be? Should I take it out of the water evry couple of weeks and flush it with water or will it be allright just to leave it in the salt water.

 

[McKenzie]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

Unfortunately, flushing the engine every few weeks is going to do little for you. My boat's manifolds/risers lasted 10 years as a trailered boat, every time it was used, it would be flushed. Last season i got a mooring and left the boat in for 2 weeks at a time (took it out to clean the bottom) and i would flush it then too. Didn't seem to do much, the manifolds and risers completely died that year. $1250 to replace both sides and winterize the boat. If you are willing to pay the conversion cost, look into getting an engine driven raw water pump, that way you can use the volvo neutra-salt system. I'm probably going to converting as soon as i come across a pump and neutra-salt system for a decent price. Or, if your slip has access to a water hose, install a fitting into your cooling supply hose that will let you to backflush the engine with the dock water. I would definitely do that if i had a slip, unfortunately i have a mooring instead, so the neutra-salt is my only option.

 

[magster65]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

McKenzie's right. Also, you can make the risers last a little longer by replacing the drain plugs with zinc plugs but it's only a 'bandaid' unless you have FWC. Another thing is to be sure you only run your engine at 140 degrees max. Any more will speed up the electrolosis and salt build up. If you do have FWC you have no worries but make sure you have the zinc plugs.

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

Jerry,you should flush you motor after every use for maximum care .As long as you have a hose and earmuffs you can do it.I lay on my swimplatform and with the drive all the way up,I put the muffs on by reaching down into the water.Turn on the water 1/2 way a little at a time so the muffs dont move from the water pressure,and start the motor.Watch the temp and if it seems to be rising a little turn up the water pressure.Let it run for 5 minutes and shut the motor before you shut the water.It is a bit of a pain but it is without a doubt worth it.And I have 2 engines to flush.There are setups available to connect into the intake hose to make it easier. Charlie

 

[Jerry San Diego]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

I appreciate all the information regarding flushing the engine. Is the conversion system hard to do and do you know approx how much it would cost. Also it sounds like if I put some kind of a hose connection in the inlet water hose of the engine I could flush the engine, is that correct.How is the accomplished? But does that also flush the outdrive at the same time. I don't have a swim step to lay on the hook up the muffs but will try to see if there is any other way to reach down ther and hook them up. Sounds like the muffs if i can reach it is the best option. Thanks for all the input<br />Jerry

 

[airman]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

Don't worry too much about flushing the leg - it's the engine that matters, especially the exhaust bits. Unless the engine is raw water cooled, in which case you should seriously consider converting (or just start saving up for the new motor). If you can get a kit to flush the engine from inside the boat it will be a lot easier and do just as good of a job because the exhaust carries the fresh water to all of the critical areas. For your leg: Make sure the zincs and paint are good. Consider an antifouling paint (but not a copper based paint as the copper will cause the aluminum to corrode). DON'T tilt the leg up - it will pull the zinc out of the water and keep it from doing its job and it will wreck the rubber bellows that keep the boat from sinking. You can't get the leg completely out of the water and 1/2 out is no help. DO get out and use the boat. That's why you got the slip. I used my boat about three times as much when I first got a slip and isn't that why we all have boats?

 

[airman]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

I missed part of your question. The conversion kit is just a valve and a hose adapter that gets spliced into the hose where the raw water enters from the leg and goes into the heat exchanger. Should be fairly cheap, I think <$75. Check out the cost of a set of exhaust manifolds. BTW there's absolutely nothing wrong with using the muffs except that you get wet and its tempting to just leave it.

 

[Jerry San Diego]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

Thank you all for the advice-<br />think I will definately check into the kit to flush the engine with dock water. Do you know if there is an actual kit that is sold for this purpose or is this process just Jerry rigged from various parts.<br />Thanks<br />Jerry

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

You can check overtons,i remember seeing a flush valve foer about 90$. OmC used to put a flush outlet on new boats that flushed from the petcocks of the engine block.For the most complete flush and for less than 10$ the earmuffs work best for me.They assure you that everything gets flushed even the hotwater heater. Charlie

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Flushing Engine and Out drive

You can check overtons,i remember seeing a flush valve foer about 90$. OmC used to put a flush outlet on new boats that flushed from the petcocks of the engine block.For the most complete flush and for less than 10$ the earmuffs work best for me.They assure you that everything gets flushed even the hotwater heater. Charlie