Floor Removal

[Starman8]

When you guys pulled your rotten floors/decking, what was your process?

If riveted? How do you remove the rivets that remain whole still attached when only the floor chunks break off from rot?

What was your SS original plywood? 1/2".......?

Thanks

 

[fshngho]

Re: Floor Removal

Starman, I used a 3/16" bit to drill out the rivet head. Be carefull not to go through the ribs & boat hull. Most of my deck was rotten so I pulled that out first, then removed rivets. I had to remove the sides & consoles as they were built on top of the deck.
Note: if the rivet starts spinning in the hole as you are drilling it, tilt the drill 45 degrees and continue drilling. This will usually stop the rivet from spinning and allow you to remove the head. After removing rivet head, use a nail punch, screwdriver, whatever,
to knock out the remaining rivet.
My floor was 1/2", some are 5/8, it depends... try to go back with the same as original so the sides, consoles, etc fit back correctly.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Removal

I found on my 16 SS I could take a pair of sharp side cutters and snip the top off the rivets then pull them trough from underneath. My origional floor was 1/2 inch but I replaced it with 5/8 with no problems with fit and I think the floor was a lot stronger for doing it.
Glen

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Removal

Thanks much. Snipping would be nice, the fall off piece falls where? In other words, stuck in the ribs? I will remove the consoles for a total rebuild and wiring, and I am partial to carpeting the framing. On my 79 SS180, the sidewalls are in great shape and screwed into the floor, so I just plan on removing the bottom screws to free up the old deck, I think?

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Removal

Once you snip them you will have to pull them trough from below, on the stringers you will have to hammer them through.You will have to remove the side panels to get to the floor. There is an angle strip riveted to the floor then the side panels are screwed or riveted to the angle.
Glen

 

[Bob Gilvary]

Re: Floor Removal

I used a 4" side grinder with thin cutting wheels. I found it to be quicker than drilling, but not everyone has a 4" grinder.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Floor Removal

but not everyone has a 4" grinder.

Ah but everyone should! They are all of $20 at Harbor Freight. Great tool for boat building.

My SS did not have the original floor so it was 1/2" just screwed down so removal was easy for me. I wouldn't be concerned with matching the thickness. I am a big fan of my solid as a rock 3/4" floor. The only issue the additional thickness will cause you is with the consoles. All you need to do to adjust them is mount them to the sides with a thicker piece of aluminum angle. You can kinda see what I did for that here http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2517.jpg . The side panels should be a non-issue if they are the rectangular ones, if they aren't it's still just a simple adjustment. So if you want a 3/4" deck, go for it. I love mine.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Removal

going to stick with 1/2" regular plywood epoxy coated and use SS screws, so what length of fastener screw? Somewhere between 1" and 1 1/2"? Do I need to use a JB or anything at each fastening point? What bonding goop should be used, liquid nails, anything on the ribs/strings?

I did salvage a 4x8 marine grade 3/4" this guy layed over the vinyl covered rot. Going to use this for the backwall that will be part of the aft deck being built or for the bow raised deck, not sure yet. The two things behind the aft wall that I need to provide access hatches are the trim motor and perm gas tank. The main battery will reside under one of the seats, while 2 new batts will be mounted center bow for a 24v trolling motor and 2 bank charger.

Got her primed and one base coat:

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Floor Removal

I agree that drilling them out is a good way, I also used a fence-making tool to snip off some of the rivet heads.

If any of the rivet shafts fall thru you can try to get them out from the limber holes since they usually roll down to the keel area inside the ribs.

Make sure the screws won't touch the bare hull of course. I used longer ones on the stringers, since the ribs are close to the hull.

The rustoleum deck screws worked well for me, they have a star bit that doesn't strip easily.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Floor Removal

Like HA, I used regular old green or beige deck screws from Lowes/HD on both of my projects and they worked well. On my SS I put some kind of Loctite brand construction adhesive goop on the stringers and rib contact points. Not sure if it does anything but I figured it can't hurt. I was actually after PL Premium when I bought that stuff but they didn't have it. I'm not a fan of Liquid Nails. I think it gets too brittle. I am concerned about you going with only a 1/2" deck and just resin coating it. It might flex too much and crack the resin. Personally I'd recommend either adding fiberglass to the mix or using thicker ply. Anyone else got an opinion on that?

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Floor Removal

Since I'm only going to get heavier as time goes on, I will be using 3/4" ply sealed with epoxy resin on any decks that I rebuild.

The flexing is no good, it can lead to cracking... which will let water in and rot the wood sooner than it should in my opinion. I didn't use cloth or mat but I probably will on my next one just to make it even more solid.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Removal

Take a look at this Fishmaster and the rear wall, notice the jigged cuts into the sidewalls, and disregard the access doors for a moment.

I am considering a similar wall. On my 79, it has the boxed in floatation under the splashwell port and star. Star side center is my trim motor and taking up the remaining space is the perm fuel tank(flat model).

The wall will tie into the top cap and the floor and should tighten up the aft section of the cockpit. From there, I will build the aft deck. The overall opening is 22" high. Since I need access to the middle section for trim/tank, each side will get a folding seat which will use up 17" each side leaving around 28-29" for the width of the raised decking.

With only 22" of height, the wall will be solid across the top but cutaway on the bottom center 28". The aft deck will be a separate section built to "slide in" and fastened in such a way that it could be removed for maintenance and repair. This removable casting deck approximately 28" wide by 18" long by 15" deep will have a swiveleze pin base flanked by two storage hatches 11x15"

The house battery under the starboard seat and tools storage under the port side seat. The wall section above this deck will hold 6 rod holders/launchers and an LED light, one of many to be added. The top rail that exists will get some Bert Tracking for trolling.

VEADA has great seating at great prices. Not going with 2 more pedestal style because the hardware in very expensive. I pitched the entire bow seating and jump seat mess the boat came with. What it did have was 2 brand new captains chairs with all the base and pedestal hardware.

Trying to turn a 30 year old tinnie with wasted space in splashwell and transom design into a combination of a SFM and a FM is pretty crazy.

 

[fshngho]

Re: Floor Removal

I like your ideas Starman but you need to repost the pic. I can't see what you are refering to.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Removal

Note in the picture of the FM underneath the gunwales, the back wall jigs into it on both sides providing a material for holes to handle the butt end of rods.................

the first cheesy paint is an example of the wall cutout in white, the 2nd, inserting some stuff..............

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Floor Removal

How come your pics are so small? If you're going to be documenting your project, take the time to set up a photobucket.com account and host your pictures there, then just link to them from here. You can size them to the forum-preferred size of 640x480 right on photobucket.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Removal

Be patient on better photos, the work hasn't begun yet except several days with my orbital sander and various grits to displace 30 years of bad paint jobs.

That said, I had to sell my 19' Starfire which I redid all but the floor and transom because they were A1, but it was a leaker so I got a great deal, fixed it, then had to sell after summer for college needs for the kids.

This is my first teardown, so I will have tons of questions. I get to fish off of late model SFM's and Fishmasters on Lake Erie, but my Fire rode better than all of them at 10 years old.

Once I get that old mess out and a new floor in, the rest is MY fun part, design, function, electrical, etc.

She will be a well dressed OLD LADY with many "around the block" scars and blemishes, but she will be PAID FOR. A luxury all of you rehabbers also enjoy!!

 

[fshngho]

Re: Floor Removal

Starman, EZ was trying to point out (as I was) that we can't see squat in the little pics you posted. I like your ideas but they mean nothing if you refer to the pics and I can not see what you are talking about.
If you are going to show us the pics, you must make them so an old man like me can see them please.
Thanks