Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

[BTF112989]

I have a 1992 19' sailfish dual console with a transom that is slowly going south. I took the boat in to have it looked over & get some quotes on the possible transom work. I was wondering what yall's opinions are as to what I should do. Option one would be full replacement of the transom at $2700. Option two would be put a 0.25" aluminum plate on the front & back of the transom (wrapping over the top of the transom) at $700. I realize this is a bandaid fix that would last maybe 3 years before becoming completely unsafe. Or option three, take my 2001 yamaha 150 hpdi & my 2006 wesco aluminum trailer and find a used center or dual console with no engine to put it all on? I will only keep the boat for about 3 more years if I do the plate. If I completely replace the transom, I may keep it for 5 or 6. The boat isn't really worth the money it would take to replace the transom. I have about $7000 saved up for whichever route I go, so the whole new boat hull is within my means. What would you do in my situation?

 

[robert graham]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

If you love the boat and intend to keep it then have the transom replaced. A replacement/used boat and all the time, trouble and expense of rigging probably cost more than the $2700. Maybe you could do one of those new transom repairs where all the old wood is removed and then filled in with epoxy? If you do the aluminum plate then you'll know it's just a band-aid and you'll be looking at it and wondering if the entire transom and motor could fall off. Good Luck!

 

[Raystownboater]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

I bet if you went through the resto section, you could probably get the guys to walk you through the process of fixing your transom yourself. Take the money you saved and buy something new for the boat when shes done!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Option #3: If the transom is still repairable, try drilling and injecting with 'Git Rot.' It will cost about 150 bucks in the brand name penetrating epoxy and the transom will be better than new.

I was sceptical the first time I used it but it did penetrate the wood as fast as I could pour it in. It was strong, yet flexible and when cured the transom was completely sound.

Basically, you cap off the engine mounting holes and drill vertical holes in the transom about every 2-3 inches. Fill them with the Git-Rot. It penetrates rotten and sound wood. After the transom has been treated, you then fill any remaining vertical holes with a non- penetrating epoxy. The transom is usable after 24 hours. One quart fills about 100 cubic inches so depending upon the transom size and degree of damage you may need 1-4 quarts.

It is fast and you don't need to pay someone to do it for you.

Now, the boat in the avatar and first photo had the transom bowing out and the splashwell cracking. This was before I knew about penetrating epoxy. I used a piece of 2 inch X 3/16 inch aluminum angle on the top of the transom with one flange on top and the other inside the splashwell. It does have a couple of plates on the outside to keep bolts and engine mounting clamps from denting the fiberglass.

It has lasted for at least ten years. There is no need to get complicated and plate the whole transom-- yes, it does look nice though.The little blue boat in the photos does have most of the transom plated with .080 hard aluminum plate, but there, I also needed to raise the transom a couple of inches. I think that .25 plate is overkill, and DON'T let them talk you into "diamond plate." It is soft and not nearly as strong as hard aluminum plate.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

If the boat is in otherwise nice shape, I'd fix it. A motorless hull you find to replace it with would probably have rot present or looming as well. Have you considered going the SeaCast route?

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Another option is sell the boat as is. Take the money you get from the boat and the money you have saved up and buy a newer model with a solid transom. Its a buyers market and its going into winter.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Lots of good advice above. I agree that if the hull is the perfect design for your use, keep it, Sounds like you already repowered at least once.
I think I would not go with the plates, since you can afford to fix it once (instead of spendnig $700 just to delay the inevitable). Also, transoms are too important and a failure can be catastrophic, so not a good place to take chances.

the "Git Rot" suggestion is intriguing. Not to doubt Frank (who in other posts also seems to know his stuff) but I'd want to hear a couple more "testimonials."

 

[americaneagler77]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

5 to 6 more years, then a good resell value if you take care of it, the 2700 for a transom is a no brainer, you know what you got, you know what it needs, only you can answer the question, we can point and point all day but only you know what you want/need. i would sea cast it from what ive read, although the git rot sounds intriguing as stated above, winter is coming, put it in a garage and fix it yourself for 500 dollars. that 2700 is allllllll labor.

now me personally i would fix it, take the remaining 6500 dollars and save it, or get a camper or snowmobile or both! thats how i see it!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

The worst thing about a fiberglass boat is that they rot from the bottom of the inside of the hull up, and by the time you realize you have rot somewhere there's probably a lot more below deck that you can't see ubtil you open the can of worms. I'd say you probably have some ugly string rot to go along with that transom rot and it isn't going to be just repairing the transom... but I might be wrong.

I'd avoid the plate fix, because if I'm right about the below deck rot it won't be too much longer before it starts showing in your deck.

IMO you need to either fix it right or sell it now.

 

[oops!]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

to properly replace a transom.....its about 40 hours by a first time do it yourselfer.

the cost is about 150 dollars.

if you choose this......come to the restoration section and we will walk you right thru it.

 

[nimmor]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Lots of good advice above. I agree that if the hull is the perfect design for your use, keep it, Sounds like you already repowered at least once.
I think I would not go with the plates, since you can afford to fix it once (instead of spendnig $700 just to delay the inevitable). Also, transoms are too important and a failure can be catastrophic, so not a good place to take chances.

the "Git Rot" suggestion is intriguing. Not to doubt Frank (who in other posts also seems to know his stuff) but I'd want to hear a couple more "testimonials."

I'll testify to the "GIT ROT". It will hardnen the wood back up rock solid if done properly. Good stuff. After I done mine I painted my wood with a weather porof barn paint to keep it protected. I have a coworker who used a marine shalac of some kind to protect it.

 

[BTF112989]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Well, I could do the whole process on my own, however time is the big issue for me. I have my boat in Nashville & I'm finishing up school in Knoxville. Between 4th year mechanical engineering classes & work, about all of my time is taken up. I'm going to just need to pay to have something done. I could possibly do the plate on my own or rig a new boat up on my own, but the transom rebuild is just too labor/time consuming & I would have to pay to have it done.

Also, a little background on the boat: It is a 1992 model(rigged for an evinrude) that sat in my grandfather's backyard until 2005 with no engine ever being placed on it. It was a dealer leftover with no engine that my grandfather could not sell when he got out of the boat business. It was chained to a tree at one point by connecting the chain to the rear lifting eyes & the trailer was ripped out from underneath it at a substantial amount of speed(long story). I dont know if any internal damage occurred or not, but the transom eyes have been loose ever since that happened. I think the dealer that installed the yamaha just redrilled some holes without sealing the evinrude rigging holes up or sealing the holes they drilled. You can see water dripping through the transom on the lower mounting screw.

The git rot solution sounds interesting. I'm just not sure of the extent of my rot. The trim motor is able to lift the outer skin of the transom up when I put the transom saver on & the transom bows in where the engine weight is. How do I know if my boat is a good candidate for git rot?

If I do sell the boat outright, how much do you think I could get for it? A 19 year old boat with a bad transom, but it has a 2002 engine on it(mounted in 2005) with only 295 hours and a fairly new aluminum trailer.

The boat is in pretty nice shape other than the transom condition & maybe needing some new deck hatches. Its an old boat, but it hasn't truly been in use for very long. 6 years. I seem to think the rot is contained to the area around the splashwell & engine area. However, I don't know about the outer edges of the transom after being chained to that tree.

How would I test for stringer rot? The floor is solid everywhere. except for over the gas tank(needs new foam).

After all you guy's comments, I'm tempted to maybe dive into the transom repair. I'm just not sure whether to do seacast, wood, or git rot. My fear is the finishing fiberglass work. I think I could do the majority of the work, but making it look right in the end is what I'm worried about. I am good with tools, fixing cars, and do all my own maintenance on the boat, but my big saying is: "A man's gotta know his limitations." I don't know if I'm handy enough to dive into such a huge project.

Also the guy who wants to repair the transom, says he will essentially cut the whole back of the boat off & rebuild from there. That scares me a little bit.

I would be happy to have a new boat. I hate to see the old boat go because of a small problem & it has a little sentimental value, since my grandfather gave it to me. I like a cheap plate fix to get me a few years, but it ruins resale value & the constant worry of catastrophic failure.

Thanks guys!

 

[Ciera2450]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

There shouldn't be a need to cut off the whole back of the boat. Usually the transom can be replaced from the inside, leaving the outer skin of the fiberglass hull intact.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

You should be able to do a SeaCast transom yourself in not too terrible an amount of time. I'm no expert but I think the basic gist is:

- remove your motor and mounting bolts.
- remove anything else mounted through the transom
- remove the capping on the top of the transom. If the top is all fiberglassed, cut the top of it off to gain access. You can replace it later with aluminum channel or something like this http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j299/garyh38/July07Boat002.jpg (that boat got a SeaCast transom)
- Dig out the rotted wood with a hammer, pry bar, shop vac, etc etc. The preferred tool to help with wood removal is actually an electric chainsaw. From what I understand it will cut up the wood really well but it won't hurt the fiberglass really quickly and makes an obvious sound when you hit glass so you know when to stop.
- Mix up and pour in the SeaCast through a fabricated plywood or masonite "funnel"
- Put everything back together again

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Stay away from the plate idea. Although it will strengthen up the transom to support the engine, it will not keep water from pouring inside thru the rotten parts.

Get a few more prices for the repairs and keep an eye out on eBay or CL for an engineless hull.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Fix it, bandaid it, or replace it?

Stay away from the plate idea. Although it will strengthen up the transom to support the engine, it will not keep water from pouring inside thru the rotten parts.

Truth right there. One of the biggest issues with a rotten transom (in addition, of course, to the whole structural integrity thing) is that anything bolted through it will leak like a sieve. Been there, done that.