First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

[STAR5ive]

Hello, I am sure I'll find what I'm looking for here you all seem very knowledgeable!!
I'm looking seriously at a 1991 Sea Ray 200 with a 5.7 I/O merc, with a cobra leg. I found a couple things on the inspection so far, more in depth look this weekend but I want to know if you think these few things so far are a red flag.
In no particular order:

Small amount of hull damage right on the front at the keel, this is a lake boat only and I would suspect this is a common spot for damage due to beaching it on small rocks, and stones in our areas. The rest of the hull looks surprisingly good with no bubbles, dings or even scratches. The "damage" runs about 18-22 inches and is only the width of the keel (approx 1-1.5 inches) Is this a concern? Nothing at the rear at the bottom of the "V" to suggest a trip down a boat ramp. Honestly I feel better seeing it and knowing how little it actually is versus seeing a crappy repair job like my buddy has on his boat, and I can accept that there would be some cosmetic issues on any vehicle that is 22 years old.

Damage prop...the prop has a few marks on it and my freak nature (as all of us I'm sure) to have things look and work perfectly makes me want to replace it. He tells me it is a "thousand dollar prop" and that he would grind it down and use it... NOT ME!! If I know it has damage and could be out of balance I would lose sleep!! The damage is on all three fins and the biggest is about the size of half a dime.

But the damaged prop is next to some damage on the leg itself (I'm a bit freaked about this). Right on the bottom fin there is a noticeable chunk missing (yes chunk not chip) I would say that it is about the size of a quarter. I can see the porosity of the casting so I know it has broken after contact with whatever messed the prop.

You're all thinking that this guy abused his boat but after meeting him I honestly think he is just a bit clumsy and doesn't really have a bunch of mechanical aptitude. He so much as told me that he doesn't and that he gets all his work done at the dealership..including oil changes and winterizing...

The last thing is a soft part of the floor (oh god the dreaded soft floor!!) but I am not panicking. If you are aware of the boat you will know that there is a piece of flooring (22 inches by about 40 inches) that covers the gas tank. It is this that is soft...It seems very easy to replace to the point that I unscrewed it and lifted it to look underneath today when I was just looking at it. I really think I can replace it with a chunk of plywood and have no issues at all...but that is just me...and I am not an boating expert like you all!

He wants $8,500 CDN for it (I'm in northern Alberta) I am thinking he is not really looking to budge on the price too much but I may be able to get him down another couple hundred or so...

I value your input, please comment!!

What else do I need to look for?

 

[kjsAZ]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

$8500 sounds high for a boat that age! For this price it should be in pristine condition.
The question is mainly the outdrive. OMC Cobra's were available in different flavors and some are good, some not so. As OMC is out of business since a long time spare parts can sometimes be a problem and for some types you need a mechanic who really knows these drives.
OMC's left overs were purchased by Volvo and the later drives are actually very similar to the Volvo AQ series. These are the good ones!

Be happy that the skeg is already broken off! That means you don't have to do it yourself (just kidding). Happens to all of us sooner or later when we forget to move the drive into trailering position when we retrieve it. Mine also came that way (Mercruiser A1G2). I can't imagine that a prop will cost $1k unless it's a very special SS prop. Now, if it would be a Volvo Duo-Prop then yes. Regular aluminum props, my favorite Solas Amita 4, sell for around $130 in CDN.

Have you checked whether the transom is solid? Knock with a screwdriver handle against the transom and go all over it. When it start to give a dull sound you may have found a serious problem, rot.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

run don't walk

omc cobra is fairly undesirable but a soft spot in the floor is a deal breaker... it's the difference between $8500 and $85... seriously.... rot almost always starts in the deepest recesses of the boat's structure and starts to show up years later as a "small soft spot in the floor"

 

[roscoe]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

Damage to the keel area is typical. Is the gelcoat removed?
Are the glass fibers exposed?

He hit a rock, sounds like very minimal damage to the prop, and cosmetic damage to the skeg.

Don't expect a 22 year old boat to be in pristine condition.

OMC is an issue for me.
hull, stringers, transom, and engine would all be more important to me than cosmetic damage.

 

[Ozshadow]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

Do you mean only the piece of wood covering the tank is springy? I believe that is normal. I'm more worried about the floor around it and everywhere else.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

I think that here is enough 'smoke' coming from this deal that you are sure to find 'fire' if you go through with it.

next opportunity please. . .

 

[etracer68]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

The price is very high, and the part thats makes me wonder the most is, an 5.7I/O merc with a Cobra leg. Something doesnt add up here.

 

[Bondo]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

The price is very high, and the part thats makes me wonder the most is, an 5.7I/O merc with a Cobra leg. Something doesnt add up here.

Ayuh,.... 'n the OMC drive is reason enough to Run Away,....

 

[Slip Away]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

I had an 89' Sea Ray 200 cuddy for 9 years. great boat, but was developing a spongy floor when we sold it. I agree with the others that say pass on this one. The combination of the ludicrously high asking price, OMC and structural issues, says move on to the next candidate.

 

[STAR5ive]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

WOW thanks for the responses!

I figured the issues on the hull we cosmetic, the gel coat is definitely missing and there is a spot where the fibreglass is exposed. I am surprised to hear about the sterndrive being an issue, and yes that does concern me...I have a limited availability of service technicians here and I don't want to get stuck having to trailer my boat across the land to get it fixed. I will do some more digging on what year it is.
Yes it is just the part covering the gas tank that is soft, but like I said I took it off and it looks like it will need to be fixed. It is most certainly the lowest part of the floor and it was damp after his trip out this weekend...I'm sure the water pools on it and has a chance to do the damage.

I also call BS on the prop, it is an SS one but like I said I have little faith in his mechanical ability.

Finally the price, I did some looking and he is in the ballpark of what the market says around here. I have been finding bayliner capris with 3.0L in the same price range (not that it is a bad boat) and there is another sea ray for the same price in another town a few hours from here.

I'm hearing that I should walk based on an obsolete sterndrive though...

 

[Chris N]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

In my opinion this boat is WAY overpriced, especially with a Cobra leg on it and a soft floor. The 22 footers of the same vintage on the "Yacht World" site are listed for less. I don't believe the banks will grant a chattel loan on boats of this age so the only market for them is people with cash, and I think he's going to be hard pressed to get anywhere near $8K for it.

As far as the issues go; Keel damage is fairly normal and can be repaired by any fiberglass shop or even by you at home if you can read and follow directions.
Props can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of replacement. Sounds like it could be a high end stainless one, find a prop shop to send it to.
Skeg - A chunk that's the size of a quarter is not going to affect too much. Skegs can be welded by marine certified ship yards or you can buy and install a skeg guard if it really bothers you.
Soft floor - "Run Forrest Run" !!!! Where there is rot, there is more rot. This is JUST MY PERSONAL OPINION but, a rotten floor indicates long term exposure to water, and long term exposure to water indicates either lots of hours or neglect. I'd keep looking if I were you. I know how hard it is to walk away from a potential deal and continue looking but you should expect to find a better deal than that for that kind of money. Good luck.

 

[Chris N]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

S-5, Where in northern Alberta are you? We are in central interior of B.C. and just found a smokin' deal on Craigs List. We had to drive for four hours but it beats the heck out of paying too much for someone else's problem. We scored a 1989 Sea Ray 230 cuddy in immaculate condition, under 300 hours, stored indoors, trailered, and fresh water use only, WITH a good trailer, for $8900.00. The same vintage boats that are 4 hours from here in the opposite direction are twice the price and completely shot. ALSO, you may want to consider boats with fiberglass cockpit liners and the snap in carpet option. They usually have scuppers built in to the rear to shed water.

 

[STAR5ive]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

I'm thinking I may walk after all...thanks for the info.

Chris I'm in Grande Prairie, I looked in the interior of BC and there are some deals to be had for sure. I'm just not sure about looking for a boat in an area so far away...I've been to this one twice now and I haven't even had it on the water yet.
How do you all suggest I handle buying a boat basically site unseen? I will not be afraid to walk once seeing it but I am looking at 4-5 hour drives one way to get anywhere close to civilization once I leave my town. I won't be able to take a few days to walk around it, and then test drive. I will basically have to see it, kick the tires and then pay the man...and drive home with a lot of chest pain and high blood pressure from the anxiety

 

[Utahboatnut]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

Not to be nit picky but if its a frankenstein 1/2 merc 1/2 volvo/omc I would not be interested at all. you say its a 5.7 merc with a cobra O/D its either one or the other unless someone has done some weird stuff. I think the seller thinks he can get whatever he wants out of it because its "marine". 1k for a 3 blade prop is a pretty good indicator of where he is at on the value of things. I think I would continue to look around.

 

[Chris N]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

For out of town boats we ask if the seller has access to a high definition camera. If they do you can request a series of pictures of everything from the bilge to the bow and even a shot of the oil pan and places where you can't even get your eyes into. With HD photos on your computer you can magnify them to pick out any imperfections. The other alternative is to take your chances on a surveyor. When we purchased our 230 it was the 17th boat we looked at, and most of them were out of town. There's a lot of garbage out there that the sellers swear to be in excellent shape. Find out how long they've had the boat and why they're selling it. Eventually you'll find one that's being sold by the original owner because they are trading up or down. Those are the ones you want. Here in Canada the license will have the date of ownership transfer on it too, so ask to see that. Ask for service records and learn how to sound the transom and floor with a screwdriver handle. If the seller can produce service records from when the boat was new there's a good chance it was well looked after. Also find out WHO did any work on it. We viewed one boat that boasted a brand new engine and when we checked it out it turned out to be a car engine that was installed by a back yard mechanic. I would only look at boats that have been professionally maintained at authorized dealers. I'm also very partial to Mercruiser I/O's. They are very reliable and are cheaper to fix than the Volvo out drives. Anything else I walk away from. Volvo does make an excellent product but they are expensive to repair. Be wary of cheap knock off replacement legs and lower units too. Generally, if it don't say "MERCURY", then it ain't.

 

[STAR5ive]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

This is all great info, I am a bit heart broken because it was a nice fit for my family. I have 4 kids and we need a "bigger" boat just for the room, I have browsed some 17-20feet and my buddy has an 18 and I think we need the bigger boats so we are not on top of each other. I will keep looking but I may be forced to wait until next year. I am going on vacation soon (wanted to have a boat for it) and by the time I get back it will be only a few weeks until the end of our very short boating season.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

Keep looking, don't be discouraged, everything happens for a reason. Comparable SeaRay's are a dime a dozen, so you will probably find some equally suiting or better.

As a reference point . .

My first boat purchase, I looked at about 4 boats

My second boat purchase, I looked at about 8 boats

My third boat purchase, I looked at 12 boats.

So, if you have not looked at very many, you will benefit by looking at more boats.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

Yea, trying to meet a holiday schedule with a purchase as big as this, is not a good idea. The goal should be to buy the best boat your cash can buy, not the easiest boat. That usually takes time, because there is so much abused stuff out there. Then you need to know what to look for, and "look out" for. I agree, thousand dollar props are a good sign that someone is not in touch with real value. Many times you can screen out junk by asking good questions before you jump in the car, not always, but it gets easier as you go through it a couple times. Have some fun looking at other peoples boats, but be prepared to walk most of the time. And banging a screw driver on the transom is not a great way to determine if it's still rock solid.

 

[STAR5ive]

Re: First Post, need help 1991 Sea ray 200 purchase

The boat sold to someone else this morning so on with the hunt...got my eye on a 1996 Larson now very clean and in great shape...just 5 hours away

Thanks for all your help! I'll be asking more soon you guys and gals are a great resource...and I'm sure you are all nice people too!!