FD-10 Go or no?

[JG_2-Stroke]

Thanks to all. The FD-10 is up and running. I've added a few of the 'after' pictures along with some of the restoration.

1956 FD-10 and 1967 Crosby ready for launch!! 6 months in the making!


If you want to see a pictorial here are the links!

http://picasaweb.google.com/Jim1613/1967Crosby#

http://picasaweb.google.com/Jim1613/FD10195615Hp#

 

[JB]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Yes. Very good start for a project engine.

Don't pull the head until after you do a compression check. It is probably fine.

Go to the Engine FAQs forum and do "Awakening a sleeping outboard."

Cosmetics mean very little unless you want a marina queen. Many engines in perfect operating condition look their age.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

I concur with JB. Most likely, the light corrosion you are seeing is just oxidation, or possibly a little corrosion due to disimilar metals (copper in the gasket vs. aluminum of the block). If the motor had been overheated, the paint itself would be very discolored, particularly on the exhaust cover and cylinder head. Yours looks fine as far as that goes...
- Scott

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Thanks, guys,

 

[jbjennings]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Looks good to me, too. Although it appears to have had a lot of use and I particularly hate how someone put one of those "doel-fins" on the cavitation plate by drilling holes. Of course that's easily fixed. What does appear good is that the previous owner did have the gumption to put decent parts on it like the good recoil and good shifter. That's a good sign.
A helpful tidbit for seeing if an oldie is a goodie is to take the plugs out and turn the flywheel until the piston is close to top dead center and use a screwdriver (careful so you don't scratch the piston) or dowel rod and push on the piston to see if there's any slack in the wrist pin or connecting rod. If you've got good compression and no slack in the rods It's got a nice powerhead most likely. Then comes the lower unit. You may get lucky and it won't slip out of gear. I'd check the impeller and likely replace it and take it for a spin and see if it holds gear. IF so, then prepare for a lower unit seal rebuild. Then you've got a good motor. Don't buy the whole fuel pump if that top cover is bad which it looks like it is. They're high if you buy the whole unit but you CAN buy just the cover if you know the part number for $1.49.
I can't believe I forgot to tell you F-R's advice on the lower crank seal!
Luckily he's picking up all the slack as usual!
Later,
JBJ

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

OK, checked the compression and it was 85 on each cylinder after 4 short pulls... I'm thinking that's OK?

 

[kjdunne]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

85 lbs. compression should be fine, especially if the engine was cold and has not been run for a while. The readings being equal on both cylinders is more important than the actual numbers, as compression guages will vary. Once you get it running, do a decarbonize per the FAQ section here, and I'll bet your compresssion numbers will come up some.

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Thanks, KJ. Yep, the engine was cold. Now on to the magneto!

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Progress, so far. Impeller, coils, points, condensers, gear lube replaced, new starter rope and handle. Carb is next.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

That carb is so easy I doubt you'll even need a manual. Look on the FAQ section and I'll bet that's all you need. TOO easy!!!
I can't wait to hear how it runs...
New pull cord and greased recoil spring???
JBJ

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Jason,

Oops, forgot... new rope and handle....where/how do I grease the recoil spring?....too tired to dig through the manual!!

 

[jbjennings]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

I like to just take off the recoil assembly and pull the cord fairly far out and take a little wheel bearing grease or whatever I get my hands on and rub a little in the little window of the recoil wheel. When you pull the cord out some the spring will wind up and you can get a bunch of grease on more of the spring. I doubt that's the right way to do it but it works for me. A broken recoil spring is a real pain. I like to check my cord on a new one and make sure that it's long enought that I don't reach the end of the cord when I pull it. that's a good way to break the spring, snatching on the cord and hitting the end of the rope.
Later,
JBJ

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Cleaned carb and put all back together.

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Fire in the hole! It's ALIVE!

 

[wbeaton]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Unless you plan on running that motor upside down don't worry about it. You can make a new gasket for the filter bowl if its still leaking. Don't use starting fluid. It has no lubrication. Use premix in a spray bottle. And by all means don't junk that motor. You are doing fine.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

I guess you can disregard what I just posted. lol.

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Here was the problem.... I had removed the handle because of a broken gear and so the throttle wouldn't be held open to start. Boy am I dumb....had a local expert, Fred Droney, stop by and fix me up.

 

[JG_2-Stroke]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

Thanks, Wayne. If I'm runnin' upside down, I'll be in real trouble!!!

 

[jbjennings]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

That Fred is a busy beaver! You're not the first person Fred has helped in your area.....
Glad to hear you got her running. I'll bet you can't wait to make your first test run.
Good job to you AND Fred!
JBJ

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: FD-10 Go or no?

We crave photos of the running beast. Take your camera when you put it on the water.