Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

geekomatic

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
136
I've just started digging into my little '58 Fast Twin 18HP. Looky. It has Electric Start,for which I'm quite happy about! I bought the Seloc manual for the thing, and it's done nothing but confuse me even more.Seems like everything on my motor is completely bass-akwards to the decriptions/photos in this manual.I know this isn't rocket science, but I'm getting a little frustrated.I need to remove the carb and check the needles and the floats.I think I have an electric choke,but I'm not sure.What I think is the choke solenoid looks like it's been smacked with a hammer,and will most likely need to be replaced.The rubber boot on the thing is also trashed.Does anybody know if I have a Type I,II,or III carb? Is this,in fact,and electric choke? The Guts.<br />I've taken the lower unit off and the impeller and water pump looked like they were installed yesterday.It's going to be replaced anyway.I know for a fact that the thing has sat uncranked for at least three years.There was NO,absolutely NO,lube in the lower unit,except for a residual coating on the gears.The gears look OK,oddly.<br />I also need to know a good source for the dual fuel lines and fittings to the tank,which is also OK.The fuel lines are dry rotted like nobody's business.I think,overall,the motor appears to be in pretty good shape.I won't feel comfortable cranking it until I've fully checked everything.These things appear to be built to survive a nuclear winter.Pretty happy with it, but I felt some expert advise never hurts.I can post as many photos as needed if one of you gents decides to adopt a dummy for a day or two :D
 

boltbreaker

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
76
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

EDIT: Sorry, boltbreaker. We don't allow buy, sell or giveaway of items on the Board.<br /><br />You can advertise your stuff on the Thrifties and ask someone to pay for the ad and shipping.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

That's what Seloc calls a Type I with All Electric Choke. The pictures in there are all from the Big Twin carb, so they don't look anything like yours. They do use the same choke solenoid though. :) <br />So sections 4-6 (pages 4-13 to 4-22) and 4-7 (pages 4-25 and a bit of 4-26) apply to you. <br />I've got to say, the carb section of the Seloc manual is pretty dismal. They leave out the entire procedure for removing and replacing the core plugs, which is a critical part of a carb rebuild.<br /><br />Disassembling:<br />Your new carb kit ought to come with replacement, slightly convex core plugs. Before proceeding, make sure they're they are the same size as as the ones you are about to remove. If all is well, drill a 1/8" hole in the center of each core plug. Then insert a small screwdriver or nail through the hole, and pry the plug out. It is very important that while drilling and prying, you do not let anything damage the surfaces underneath the plug. So restrict the drill bit from peircing much more than 1/16" beyond the core plug.<br /><br />Assembling:<br />Coat the outside edge of the core plug with a slight amount of gasket sealer. (Although this step isn't strictly necessary, I find it helps seal the plug and saves problems down the road.) Now place the plug convex side up attop the boss where the plug rests. Then, using a small drift and hammer, tap the top of the core plug so it expands until it jams tightly against the core plug's socket. Give it one extra tap for good measure.<br /><br />Here's a couple places for double-line stuff. The end-connectors are easily rebuildable. Do *NOT* follow Seloc's method! Follow alcan's: Click here. <br /><br /> Laing's <br /> Iboats fuel line, (only 50' reels here though)<br /> Vintage <br /><br />Hope this helps!<br /><br />PS - I forgot to post it, but I was just kidding about the deal. I've found fixing old J/E's to be an addictive passtime and after dragging some worthless old hulk back into the shop that I have absolutely no use for, I have to ask myself, "What were you thinking??" :D
 

geekomatic

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
136
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Captain Paul, <br />You are a true wealth of information,I thank you profusely,and I agree 100% on your critique of the Seloc carb section.Two thumbs down!<br />Overall the manual is a tiny bit of help.This is my first outboard project.It's almost like an auto motor,of which I've rebuilt several.The exception,of course, is that everything is smaller and mounted sideways.No big deal.The carb thing threw me for a loop.The pressurized fuel tank,hoses, connectors,etc. also has me puzzled a bit, but I think I can wade thru it without starting a bonfire in the garage.Also appreciate the links to sites for the fuel hoses.Gotta have those.<br />Now:Can somebody tell me what kind of lube do I need to use for this bone-dry lower unit? I refuse to move the thing until I get it slippery.As I said in my last post, the gears all look great,Oddly.I have no clue what has happened to the lube, but the lower unit is completely empty.What kind and how much?
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Thanks for the kind words! :) <br />OMC/BRP 'HiVis' or equivelant 90 weight outboard gearcase oil available wherever boating supplies are sold, and often where oil is sold. I advise you do not use OMC/BRP 'Premium Blend' as suggested in some older publications. The back of your Seloc manual will tell you it takes 8.3 oz.<br />If you value your sanity, get a cheap lower unit oil pump like this:<br />
1013630969Q-1.jpg
<br /><br />I used to think outboards were like car engines too, but then I thought about the differences. The ignition system is totally different. So is the charging system (if present). The pistons are shaped funny and there's no valves. Then there are holes in the bore walls, and the roller bearings on the forged steel cranks. And the crank case chambers are all sealed off. Plus the whole thing is made out of aluminium.<br />Nowadays I look at an outboard engine and wonder if it holds anything in common with a car engine, besides that they both consume gasoline. Well, oil mixed with gasoline for the outboard I suppose. :D
 

geekomatic

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
136
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Kind of like a Chevy Vega? I had two of those,but not by choice,I assure you.One to drive,one to use for parts :p .Actually, I think I'll get a LOT further with the Evinrude.Again, Thanks for the advise.I'm on a roll now......
 

itstippy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
548
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

I have heard of people draining the lower unit for winterization or longterm storage. Idiotic, but folks do it. Seloc's has the float upside down in their exploded view of the type 1 carb. Get a lower unit seal kit since you have it apart anyway. The kit will come with some "spare parts". Removing the shift rod bushing is fun. Search under "itstippy" in this forum and look for "help with gearcase seal kit". The guys on this forum had great advice for me. Seach eBay for a parts manual for your motor - they are terrific and cost about $10 with shipping. Search the Stores section there are several eBay stores specializing in old outboard service and parts manuals. The parts manual has exploded views of everything down to the last screw and clip. <br />That motor of yours looks very clean and nice. I'm just finishing up a 1961 18HP Johnson Seahorse (same motor) that I had to completely disassemble and clean with Mean Green and a toothbrush. Kept me amused putzing in the basement for weeks and darn it now I don't know what Paris Hilton is up to because I missed so much "must see TV".
 

geekomatic

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
136
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Got the parts manual on the way already.It should be here within a week or so.Ebay seems to be a great source of goodies,I've noticed.Think I've already found myself a new choke solenoid plus a carb rebuid kit.Thanks for the compliment on the clean motor. I swear I haven't touched it with anything since I got it.Like I said earlier, The water pump/impeller appeared brand new, as did the points,coils,etc.Can't believe somebody went to all that trouble to replace these parts and then it just sat there.<br />I got the big HDTV with a TEVO.Probably haven't watched two hours of TV since buying it a year ago.I leave that job to my wife.I do, however,record everything.You need some Paris goodies? :D
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Darn, I was going to say to get the factory kit 'cause it comes with a new, fuel tolerant float. The 18-xxxx kits for old OMC engines don't.<br />Looks like you can still get the float separate from the carb kit if you're interested. PN 396514 from the dealer.<br />Nice to have the pleasant surprise of new coils. :) <br /><br />PS - The float description on 4-18 is in fact accurate... For a 3hp. :rolleyes:
 

geekomatic

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
136
Re: Fast Twin Issues. HELP!

Oddly enough,Again,<br />The carb actually looks great!!! Of course that's after I broke all the gaskets.I really do think somebody actually rebuilt this entire motor before I got ahold of it.Besides the gasket kit, I think i'm gonna put it together and see if it cranks.I really do need that choke solenoid,'cause somebody has smacked it with a hammer or something.On to the electric hookups.They're all dry rotted and cracked from the motor battery connector all the way up to the ignition switch.Hope I can figure out how to rewire this thing, especially on the starter solenoid box.There were a LOT of accessories spliced into the thing with electrical tape.I hope to be able to wire in the nav lights, speedo, etc. in a bit more of a professional manner. This part of the whole thing really looks like crap.
 
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