Factory flushing connector operation

Madmax22

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2019
Messages
8
Afternoon everyone. New to the forum. I just got my first boat, 1972 18ft fiberform I/O. Have been doing a ton of searching and found theres not alot to be found about these guys.

I am pretty well lost as to what Ive got and will continue searching to try and answer my own questions.

My first one is that on the outdrive there is a (factory) flushing adaptor installed on the top of the stern drive. Easy enough. It is on the Port side. My question is on the Stbd side same spot the other plate is loose, basically the same plate on the other side has the bolts backed out so there is about a 1/4" gap.

Is this gap suppose to be open when operating, or only when flushing, or did the previous owner just leave it partway off? Here is a pic of my outdrive. Not sure what it is so any input much appreciated. Ill start another thread in appropriate section for the boat in general.

Thanks for any input.
bZryW11.jpg
 

southkogs

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Jul 7, 2010
Messages
14,918
Welcome aboard:

You've got a 1972 OMC Electric Shift Stringer Outdrive. Your engine will/should have a tag on it somehwere (mine was on the motor mount, rear, starboard side). That number will tell you your model.

The trunion caps on either side should be tight to the assembly. They'll probably leak some, but for the most part they're holding water in. I don't know if it matters, but I'm used to seeing the flush kit on the other cap. Maybe yours would fit better if they're swapped.
 

Madmax22

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2019
Messages
8
Thanks for the info Kogs, now I know something about my boat. Appreciate any info you or anyone can relay about the label plate on the engine. I tried looking them up but couldnt find anything with those numbers.

Here is the label plate and casting number

INasfGn.jpg

MrKwmTo.jpg

V3UXB4w.jpg

Was trying to start it up today, got a fresh battery hooked up. Lowering the drive worked great but it wont raise. Can hear the solenoid on lower but nothing on raise so gonna check the fuses if I can find them and maybe swap the solenoids. Fun stuff.
 
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southkogs

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14,918
Well ... according to that model number, you've got a 1975 OMC 120. Should be a 4cyl 153 Chevy II engine.

If you're not familiar, OMC went out of business in the 1990s. The Stringer drive was discontinued in 1986, and the electric shift (what you have) was discontinued in 1977. If you've not sunk much money into the boat at this point, take a moment and consider ... it's a vintage drive and has many obsolete parts. They can be a little finicky and you won't find many marine techs who are willing, or even know how, to work on 'em. I don't dislike them, but it's not going to be a boat that doesn't require much maintenance.

The tilt motor on that system is one of the favorite sticking points :) Most likely, that electric motor needs rebuilt. You can check the solenoids ('cuz their easy and cheap), but my experience was that the motor would need pulled, cleaned and maybe rebuilt.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,285
You need a 3/8” short box wrench to remove the tilt motor. Sometimes as Southkogs said the solenoid is the problem. Those are not automotive style. They are grounded internally. The tilt motor may have stuck brushes and a pitted commutator. Sometimes the armature can be turned on a lathe to smooth out the commutator. Or just buy a new tilt motor. Do not hold the down switch until the drive hits bottom, just tap it a few times to lower the drive otherwise you will shear off the end of the tilt motor shaft. The spring loaded coupling may come out with the motor or pull apart. Be sure to account for the plastic washers that are on either side of the coupling.
 

Madmax22

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2019
Messages
8
Thanks Kenny.

I ended up swapping the wires on the tilt motor and the switch when in the down position raised the sterndrive just fine. I assume its either the wiring, solenoid, or switch.
 
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