Re: Exhaust gasket
First: If you don't have a leak or other problem leave it alone. These are not gaskets you want to replace routinly. And it is WAY easier if the block is off the leg.
At the bottom, at the front of the plate, there is a "dogleg" The gasket is thinnest there and easily kinked. The stainless steel sheet metal plate is usually warped and makes it a bit difficult to assemble.
SO: start with a couple of screws in the center of the plate to hold both gaskets and the stainless plate in position on the aluminum cover. Put against the engine and screw in all bolts finger tight, making sure that the thin spot at the dogleg is not kinked or cut. Use a crossing pattern like when you mount an auto tire. This will shift the assembly so everything is aligned.
Now snug the bolts in a spiral manner working from the center of the plate outward. Finally using the same spiral pattern, torque the bolts to 70 INCH pounds.
Sounds long and complicated but it is really easy and if you do it often it will become second nature. Better to take a couple of extra steps than to need to redo the thing later.
Who is it on the forum that says: "Why is there never enough time to do it correctly but always enough time to do it over?"
The bolts do tend to corrode and cold weld into the casting. If they don't "crack" and start out easily, then use a wiggling motion. If you try to just run these stuck bolts out, they will snap.
It is a given that you will break off at least one. Don't let this discourage you.
If the broken portion is high enough, you can soak it with penetrant for a couple of days, grab with a Vise-Grip and wiggle it out. If you are lucky it will be one that is easy to get to without removing the lower pan.
If the bolt is too low to grab, re-install the cover with as many bolts as you can, then drive a 5/16 roll pin into the hole. Now, using a 3/16 cobalt steel drill bit. drill out the bolt.
