Evinrude ID

[Fontanaman]

Hi Folks,<br /><br />I just purchased a pre 1959 Evinrude 10hp (I think). It must be pre-'59 as it uses a pressurized gas tank. It has no ID tag on the mount and I can't find any "freeze plug" on the block that will identify it for me. <br />I believe I will need to replace the lower unit seals since the oil came out with that wonderful mocha color with a little water. However the fill plug seemed a little loose and didn't have any gaskets on it or the vent plug.<br />I want to order a manual for the engine, but I want to be sure of the correct year. Can anyone guide me on how to ID this thing. It looks very much like the '57 speed twin, but the emblems and decals are long gone. The paint is very good however, so I think it may have been painted. (it is deep blue with white in the center portion of the cowling. The only numbers I can find are part numbers. Above the Evinrude instructions on the inside of the cover is the number 203264, but I believe this must be a part number only.<br /><br />Thanks in advance for any info. adam@whitewaterrecording.com

 

[alcan]

Re: Evinrude ID

Hi Fontanaman <br />Did you remove the entire shroud? Is the welch plug missing? If you can not ID the year, just get an after market clymer manual no.B734. Give your lower unit presure and vac. tests. If it dosen't pass, take it apart, clean it up,and install new seals. It's usualy easier and less expensive to repair these than replace. Good luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[Bear]

Re: Evinrude ID

This is not as good as a serial number but anyway...<br />1957 Evinrude 10 hp: http://mitglied.lycos.de/old_omc/e_1957/seite_20_21.jpg <br /><br />1960 Evinrude 10 hp: http://mitglied.lycos.de/old_omc/e_1960/seite_12_13.jpg <br /><br />There is no pictures of any 1958-59 Evinrudes at that page.<br /><br />These are the the numbers you are looking for but cant find on your engine:<br />Year Model-Nr. <br /> 1956 10012 <br /> 10013 <br /> 1957 10014 <br /> 10015 <br /> 1958 10017 <br /> 10016 <br /> 1959 10018 <br /> 10019 <br /> 1960 10020 <br /> 10021 <br /> 1961 10022 <br /> 10023 <br /> 1962 10024 <br /> 10025 <br /> 1963 10302 <br /> 10303 <br /><br />/Bear

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Evinrude ID

Hi Fontanaman,<br /> Well, we can narrow it down a bit here... It has to be somewhere between 1956 and 1959, as those were the only years Evinrude built the 10hp with the pressure system. The 1959 is easy to eliminate, as it would have a fiberglass bucket cowling. 1958 was the only year to have the clamshell cowling AND the four-bolt smaller style lower unit. That leaves you with a 1956 or 1957 motor, which has a five-bolt lower unit (four under the bulge, one above in the rear). These two years were virtually identical mechanically.<br /> Hope that helps...<br />- Scott http://www.pfs-ware.com/smith

 

[Fontanaman]

Re: Evinrude ID

You Guys are truly awesome!<br /><br />Thank you so much for the info. I believe I have the '58 model. The motor looks just like the pictures of the Sportwin 10 from the catalog, but the lower unit (meaning the bolts above the water intake?) bolts on with 4 bolts. Chinewalker's comments would conclude a '58. Right?<br /><br />I have replaced the drain and vent screws with new gaskets and oil. Tommorrow I will run it for awhile in a barrell and check the oil again. The person I bought the motor from said he hadn't changed it in two years and it appears he didn't tighten things very well either.<br /><br />I don't have the tools to give the motor a pressure test, so any other advice or indications I should look for would be appreciated.<br /><br />Thanks again!

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Evinrude ID

Hi Fontanaman,<br /> Now we're getting somewhere. If it does appear that you're getting water in your oil, then you'll have to put a seal kit into it. Not a big deal, but it should be done. Those 4-bolt lower units used on the 10hp worked fine under ideal conditions, but couldn't take much abuse. They were derived from the 5.5/7.5 lower unit with a mildly beefed up driveshaft - some sort of cost saving measure I'm sure. So basically, check and change the oil often, shift at lowest idle, make sure the prop is clean and balanced, and avoid the bottom. They will work, and they will last - you just have to maintain them a bit more diligently...<br />- Scott

 

[Fontanaman]

Re: Evinrude ID

Well, I just ran the engine for the first time. It runs excellent! Sounds like an old Yamaha 2-stroke YZ mototcycle. I ran it for about 15 minutes and then left it in the barrell for about an hour. Drained the oil and did not see any separated water, but the oil was coffee colored (like with a little milk) Am I correct in assuming this indicates water seepage? Thanks again for all the great advice!

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Evinrude ID

Hi Fontanaman,<br /> Yep, you've got water. I'd go to your OMC dealer or NAPA and get a seal kit (under $20.00). It'll contain propshaft seal, driveshaft seal, spaghetti seal for around the split gearcase, o-ring for around the rear bushing carrier, and an o-ring for the shift rod bushing. <br /> Also, get yourself a couple of long (8 inch) nails with heads on them. You'll need to make a tool to remove the shift bushing to get at the o-ring under it. The hole in the bushing is slightly smaller than the hole in the lower unit casting so you make the head of the nail (with a file or on a grinder/belt sander) small enough to clear the housing, but not the bushing so you can tap the bushing out from underneath.<br /> You'll also need a small can of Perm-A-Tex sealer to goop up the gearcase halves when you reassemble. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the waterpump impeller if you're unsure of the service history.<br /> All of these items are readily available - feel free to check back if you need help...<br />- Scott

 

[Fontanaman]

Re: Evinrude ID

Ok, I ordered the seal kit and manual from my local dealer. (There are nice guys) and they should arrive on Monday. I don't own a torque wrench and I guess I am gonna need one? Or is really tight good enough?

 

[Fontanaman]

Re: Evinrude ID

Ok,<br /><br />I have anwered my own stupid question! Judging from the Clymer manual I just picked up with the seal kit, it looks like things should be torqued accurately.<br /><br />The manual is a little general on some of the procedures. Like using the OMC gasket sealing compound (which my OMC dealer did not have).. They referred me to an auto parts store where I found a Hylomar Gasket and dressing flange sealant made by Permatex. Is this a good substitute. It is a material that remains "tacky". <br />Looking though the procedure in the manual, it looks as if I may need to replace some other gaskets if I change the impeller , these gaskets are not included in the seal kit. The water pumps fine, but I figured since I was in there I would change it. <br /><br />Are there any other items I should have before I begin? I hate getting into things and THEN running off or waiting to get parts. Thanks again for any help.