evinrude 90hp v4 trailering bracket

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
Hi guys, new member but not new to the forum. I've brought my 'rude from barely running with all sorts of issues to Lake ready with information I've gained here.
My question is, I need PN's for the bracket(s) that make up the trailering bracket/lock assembly. I only have the one up top for full tilt and I've been transporting my boat to/from the lake like this.

I'm sure that this cannot be good for all sorts of reasons and only realized recently that something didn't seem right. Any and all help greatly appreciated.
1986 Evinrude 90hp V4
model# E90MLC
 

Rustywrench

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
209
Your model number shows a motor without trim & tilt. Unless you have added that feature you are right the trail brackets don't work very well. The motor will bounce & destroy the bracket or worse. There are a variety of after market teansom savers (that's not want they do), but can store your motor at a lower position. Some have bungee cords that help hold the engine. Others fit in the stern brackets. It is your preference as to which kind you use. Look on this site for options or eBay for possibilities.
 

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
I was figuring that. Funny enough, the swivel bracket and the transom bracket both have the holes for the trailering bracket. I'm assuming the swivel bracket was replaced to accommodate tilt/trim. Also in assuming that's why the black box that powers my tilt/trim isn't on the motor and instead is in the boat.
 

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
On the older models It seemed to me something let down in the area between the swivel bracket and bottom of shocks for trailering....
 

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jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,446
On your engine the trailer lock(red arrow) is what that generation had. Later looper engines had a different system. As I said when you engage the trailer lock, retract the trim rams(orange arrow) until both are all the way in, that will lock the engine down. If you leave it like they are shown in the pic, the engine can still move up and down and that can create some issue with the hydraulics
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dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
Ok cool, I was worried about straining the system by continuing to let it down once it had snugged down on the lever(red arrow)
 

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
Does this angle seem normal for trailering?
And the other picture points at where I've seen a second spring loaded bar that was connected here on other evinrudes
 

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interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
I usually let the motor down on a piece of 4x4 and run trim in until it snugs rather than prop it on the OEM bracket. Keeps it lower.
 

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
629
My 100 looks like the pix in post #6. When I raise the OB all the way; the trailer lock drops by itself. Then I run the pistons down some. Then use a heavy duty (truckers) bungee cord to tie it down to the boat. My trailer does not have a crossmember at the very back.
 

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
All these are very informative responses. Gonna take it around the roads near home and have the wife monitor it and apply which is best for me. Thanks guys! Will post results.
 

dabrackmaster

Seaman
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
60
Ok guys, I let the engine down onto the support and then ran the trim rams in. It rides a lot tighter now. Also used a couple rubber trucker bungees and I am more confident about trailering it now.

Thanks to everyone who helped out!
 
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