Engine will not start

[bryandjohnson33]

I have the following engine that won't start:<br /><br />Mercruiser Stern Drive, <br />Model 488, <br />188 hp<br />1984<br />Serial Number 6366542<br /><br />It won't turn over at all. When I turn the key, the battery meter dips some but there is complete silence. The starter does not engage. I am somewhat inexperienced with engine repair but suspect it has something to do with the starter, solenoid, or wiring. Any suggestions? What can I do to isolate the problem? Thank you for any help/advice you can give,<br /><br />-Bryan

 

[boat doc]

Re: Engine will not start

solenoid proglems will usually give you clicking sound. Possably starter problem, hydrolic lock (sylinders full of water, pull spark plugs see if it will spin) rusted cylinders (pull spark plugs see if you can spin by hand), or if you have a bravo, or blackhawk out drive, could be upper gear housing problems.

 

[bryandjohnson33]

Re: Engine will not start

I pulled the spark plugs. I assumed I was to try and turn the fly wheel by hand. I couldn't get it to move. Should I have removed the belt connecting to the power steering pump first? Or, I am trying to turn the wrong thing? (sorry, like I said, I am inexperienced with engine repair). What should my next steps be? Thanks!<br /><br />-Bryan

 

[cbr9rr]

Re: Engine will not start

You are in the right direction. If you've taken out all of the plugs, you should be able to turn over the engine quite easily. Put a breaker bar or long socket wrench on the on the crankshaft pulley center bolt. How long has your engine had this problem, was it sitting for a while? Check your oil for signs of water. Did you have any previous problems that may have led to this?

 

[bryandjohnson33]

Re: Engine will not start

Thanks for the quick reply (boat is in driveway and I am shuffling between computer and boat!). Here is where I am at....Per your suggestion, I just put a long socket wrench on the crankshaft pulley center bolt and turned. It did move, but I certainly wouldn't say it was easy. It took quit a bit of effort to get it to turn a half a crank. Not water in the oil. <br /><br />The boat sat about 7 months (it was fully winterized). Earlier this summer, I tried unsuccessfully to start it a few times. The starter would crank, but the engine wouldn't turn over (June). I tried again after replacing the gas. But, it was still doing the same thing(July). Now, a month after my last attempt, I have the current problem where the started motor makes no attempt to crank the engine. The only other previous issue I have had with the boat was a strator/voltage regulator replacement a few years back. What should I try next? Thanks,<br /><br />-Bryan

 

[boat doc]

Re: Engine will not start

Did your spark plugs look rusty? Usually if you have water in your cylinders, plugs will get rusty. The engine should turn over real easy with the plugs out, you should be able to use something like a normal length 3/8 drive ratchet and spin the engine with little force. If you did get it to turn over, and froze cylinders was the problem, you may be able to cheat yourself back to life.<br /><br />This is risky, and soley up to you, but soak the cylinder with trany fluid, oil, wd 40, marvel mystry oil, something to lube you up, see if that will get ya goin good. If the cylinder walls, or rings are damaged, you will burn oil, or maybe finish freezing up your engine. Check your crankcase oil to, and see if you have any water in it (will look like penut butter if you do)

 

[biloxiriver]

Re: Engine will not start

Had this exact thing occur on an I/O boat a couple of years ago and it turned out to be a bad electrical connection. Was very difficult to find and for a while was intermitent, making it even more difficult. It ended up being under the dash, in the main power feed from the battery, and was simply corroded. Good luck.

 

[Colorado Boat Nut]

Re: Engine will not start

When I turn the key, the battery meter dips some but there is complete silence<br /><br />Are you sure your battery is fully charged?<br />Are your connections clean and tight? ( battery posts, starter connections,)<br />Try a fresh battery! ( complete silence) <br />Even with a locked up engine the starter will make some kind of sound<br /><br />I assumed I was to try and turn the fly wheel by hand. I couldn't get it to move<br /><br />Sorry, but an engine will not turn “easy” by hand even with the plugs out, there is too much resistance in the engine. <br />If you could turn it with a wrench id say your ok.<br />The oil and wd 40 or marvel mystery oil is not a bad idea on an engine that has not been run in a while.<br />You will want a spare set of plugs if you do that<br /><br />What can I do to isolate the problem?<br />This is what I would do in your shoes<br /><br />1.If you can spare the cash take it to the shop!<br />(I am somewhat inexperienced with engine repair)<br /><br />2. Find a friend that knows how to bypass/jump the starter solenoid (bypass the ignition switch/key) and see if the engine cranks <br /><br />3. if you don’t have a friend to do that, see if you can find an auto parts store in your area that will test your starter, pull the starter and have it tested, they will also be able to show you how to jump your solenoid.<br /><br />In my experience I can remember one of my vans as a teen, I used to have a lot of problems with my clutch linkage braking, But I could put it in gear, hit the key, and due to the gear reduction of the starter and flywheel it would move the van far enough and fast enough to actually get it started and I could limp it home so I could fix it.<br /><br />Point being your engine will have to be REALLY,REALLY, Locked up for the starter to not be able to turn your engine.<br /> Check your battery/ try a fresh one!<br />Hope this helps<br /><br />Good luck <br />COBONUT

 

[bryandjohnson33]

Re: Engine will not start

Thanks for all the responses. I recharged the battery and also tried another, still nothing. The spark plugs are not rusty. I checked all connections (battery posts and starter) and they look good. I don't have the cash to get it fixed by a pro at the moment and summer is fading quickly. How hard is it (for a beginner) to get a starter in/out to take in for testing?

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Engine will not start

Even if connections look good they could still break contact. Disconnect them (battery leads, main earth & starter cable) and clean with wire brush or emery paper. Aldo

 

[Northern Eclipse]

Re: Engine will not start

I think you have the big 4 banger 3.7 l motor with four barrel carb, If so these big 4's need alot of hydro to turn, I know you said that you tried another Battery, but you need aleast 800 cranking amp battery, But it sounds like the starter is hung, this happens if battery does not put out enough grunt, anyway you may want to pull starter open her up and give a good cleaning, could be full of rust and such...I doubt your engine is the problem.. I think you'll find its electrical..be it starter..battery of poor contacts.

 

[pecothern]

Re: Engine will not start

Shouln't be hard to remove the starter just a couple of bolts. And disconnect the wires. Sometimes the starter solenoid will stick and you can tap on it with something blunt while trying to start it and it will break loose. Take the starter off and get it tested at parts store.<br /><br />You have to either be rich or have mechanical aptitude to own a boat.

 

[jewwells]

Re: Engine will not start

I have a very sim. problem, just bought used 1983 5.7 alpa 1.<br />Started then just died, no crank just silence. Previous owner showed me a 8 pin plug (which has wire running to altenator & starter both) he says comes loose, tried unplugging & turning slightly with no difference. Engine started & ran good for seller when I went to pick up. Would appreciate any suggestions to try.

 

[Gary Wolfer]

Re: Engine will not start

I am having the same problem today Just had to be towed to boat ramp I tried shorting across the coil wire and the hot wire at the solenoid with no results it would spin but not engage into the flywheel. but when turning key nothing at all. I tried turning the crank but could not and had no tools(dumb stunt) so when we got it home I pulled the belts and put a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pully and thank GOD it did turn I thought maybe it got hot aand ran out of water. anyway that worked so I brought #1 plug to top dead center and checked spark at the plug by turning the crank with starter on and got spark then I read th book and it said something about neutral safety switch I played with the shifter a little bit and got it working again but I don't trust it any ideas where the neutral safety switch is it is a 1981 v-6 with omc before cobra outdrive.

 

[merc 140 pontoon]

Re: Engine will not start

I recommend you guys get the wiring diagram for your engine (they are in the back of the Clymer manuals), then get out your voltmeter and start testing. Now, when I say say 12V, I really mean the battery voltage (usually higher than 12V). You should have 12V all the time on one post of the solenoid. With the key in the On or Run position, but the engine not running, you should either have 12V at the (internally resisted) coil positive post, or 6 to 9 V at the (externally resisted) coil positive post if your system has ballast resistor(s) or a resistance cable (this limits the current flowing through the points during general running, to make them last longer; there is another wire from the starter that delivers 12V to the coil post during cranking, as an amperage boost [hotter spark] during starting). You should have good voltage to the starter. If any of these are intermittant, take the harness apart and fix it, or better yet replace it (pain in the arsh).<br /><br />I had a complicated problem that took a lot of work to troubleshoot. It turned out that my harness' resistance cable was deteriorated, and its resistance increased with temperature, so when the harness got hot, the voltage dropped below 7V at the coil positive post. This wouldn't be the end of the world, except I have a Pertronix Ignitor conversion (eliminates points and condenser), and that electronic unit was shutting down due to low voltage coming to it. The mechanic that installed it for me wired it to the coil post, even though the directions said if a resistance cable is present, wire it to a switchable 12V source. I changed the wiring, and that problem is now gone. This took me the better part of 2 weeks, and probably 10 hours on the boat, farting around with a voltmeter, reading the manual and studying the wiring diagram, and trying different solutions.<br /><br />Anyway, get the diagram, the voltmeter, and get your hands dirty. After a while it will all make sense.<br /><br />I'd also start by pulling the plugs and squirting some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders.<br /><br />And obviously charge up the battery, and clean all connections.<br /><br />Steve