ENGINE REMOVAL ...3 Liter 181 will not pull forward.

[minnow44]

3 Liter 181 will not pull forward from OMC Spline when trying to remove engine. It Moves Fwd about 1/2 inch , then no more, not even with come-along tugging it toward the bow. Frozen/Rusted Spline? (Yes, the six bolt are removed from the bell housing). OMG how much force can be applied to this effort without destroying a U-joint or other component? I am considering a task of cutting/drilling a hole in top dead center of bell housing to gain access to the 6 hub bolts. Then separating the hub from the fly wheel. Any helpful suggestions...OR ...."Oh No don't do that" are appreciated.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Is this a Stringer drive,..??

 

[minnow44]

Yes Stringer 1984 ish

 

[minnow44]

OMC Model # 983486 from name plate on outdrive SN 135608

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... I've seen those flex-plate splines, Awfully rusted,.....

I pulled the drive, 'n the motor with the upper, 'n wrestled 'em on the ground,....

Donno why they never got greased,......

There ain't no u-joints, just the flex-plate to the shaft,....

 

[minnow44]

Search for HP and Year reveals # 302STMRCRA

 

[minnow44]

Then what.....do the engine work on the ground and put it all back in the boat with a Rusty/frozen shaft? I have yet another problem with that....I can not remove the Shift cable from the lower outdrive housing. I recently replaced the rubber boot by "Stretch and grease" with the lower unit installed. Maybe I can get the entire thing......lower, upper, and engine out all in one piece.....what a pain in the posterior....HUH.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... Donno,.... I was always junkin' 'em, 'n putttin' Mercs back in,.....

The shaft, 'n plate were already junk in the ones I've gotten apart,.....
Rust disintegrated splines,...

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

It's often easier to remove the intermediate with the engine but that depends on hull design. When on the shop floor, you can carefully heat and pry etc to get apart.

If you need to split the two in the hull, the most common way is to remove the intermediate shaft out the rear of the intermediate first. All you need to do is remove the 3 or 4 seal retainer cover screws and then use steady even force from 2 large heel bars under the ball gear. Just be respectful of the aluminum housing.

 

[minnow44]

Junk'em and put Merc in?.....What I have is a $3000 dollar boat when it is running well....its not running. ( Sierra Cuddy 1984) ....I live on "retired" budget. Adding 6000 ( 3000 for engine + 3000 for a merc= $6000) . When I do the math, it makes better sense to sell its good parts ang the trailer on ebay/craigs list. Then use the proceeds to buy a row boat sized right to fit my Kicker engine. Then I need a place to scuddle the hull.

So I will try to...
1."remove spline shaft from Rear with crow bars"... THIS DID NOT WORK, since the spline is HARD FROZEN to Flex-plate.
2. remove the Mech Shift cable from the intermediate housing again. THIS WORKED. I will worry about resealing the cable into the FOX HOLE later.
I drilled out the rubber which surrounds the two steel cables, being carfeful not to damage the steel swerving which is around the internal cable.
With a reasonable amount of tugging the shift cable is now LOOSE., And the outdrive is laying on the ground with shift cable attached.
3. NOW ...back to removing the engine and intermediate unit at the same time.

Thanks, Thanks, Thanks, to this Forum and the great Guys that have participated in this effort!