Emergency kicker engine

[brags]

Will a 2.5 HP 4 stroke engine be able to get a (14 ft?) boat to shore in an emergency? Could I get away with an electric tiller motor? Or should I just rely on a set of oars or a tow? I am only boating in a lake.

This is the engine I am considering as my kicker...

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0050T3DH8...&ascsubtag=10cc48e19f8e762b853b2a0f30fd1325_S

I have attached a photo of the boat I intend on using it with.

 

[brags]

I just realized this is for non engine topics, so I have reposted this in the PROPer forum. (pun)
(mods you can just delete this one)

 

[alldodge]

I would just get a couple of collapsible paddles. Being on a lake, in most cases you can flag someone down for help. Having a extra motor on a small boat can also be a risk with the added weight unless attached to the stern

 

[brags]

I would just get a couple of collapsible paddles. Being on a lake, in most cases you can flag someone down for help. Having a extra motor on a small boat can also be a risk with the added weight unless attached to the stern

I hear ya. I would be attaching it to the stern... Currently it has 80 hp and is rated up to 120 hp on the capacity/compliance plate. Is there also a weight capacity for the stern regarding motors? I don't see it being referenced anywhere. I guess you'll find out when you put it in the water if the bow rides up.

 

[shrew]

A 2.5Hp 4 stroke will weigh around 40lbs. Probably won't impact trim from bow to stern much, but might give a little bit of list when at rest or headway speed. 2.5 hp will be plenty as an emergency 'get home' engine. The question is whether it is necessary.

 

[MTboatguy]

The only time I had my main stop working I used my 35lb electric trolling motor to get back to the dock and my wife and I were on the boat, it was a 14 foot sea swirl, had no problems at all, it was just slow.

 

[JimS123]

That will be a fine motor for an emergency, unless you encounter gale force winds.

Also note that the gas tank is 0.31 gal, not 3.1. That amount of gas won't last long, so you will need a way to fill the tank when you're in the emergency.

 

[brags]

Thanks for all the input. I will definitely be adding a 2.5 hp gas motor then.

 

[Sprig]

If it makes you feel better get one. I’d suggest looking for a used little Honda, Merc or Yamaha from 2.5 to 5 hp. Probably get a used one a lot cheaper. Also you’ll probably need a long shaft model. Even a .3 gallon will run a little 2.5 hp an hour or two.
Forget paddles or Orr’s. They are fine for canoes and row boats. But try sitting on the gunnels of your boat paddling. If you have to go a few feet no problem. If you have to paddle a 1/4 or 1/2 mile or more prepare for a couple hours of paddling. If you are paddling into the wind then just forget about it, you’ll never reach shore. You do need to carry a paddle in your boat for going short short distance.
An electric trolling motor would work fine but they aren’t cheap and you should carry 2 batteries to be sure you have enough juice to get back. If you don’t also use it for fishing then carring 2 batteries is a lot of weight and hassle.
Having a kicker gives peace of mind. I have an 18’ boat with a 6 hp kicker I use for trolling. It make me feel good and confident that if my main motor doesn’t start some time, my 6 hp kicker will get me home. I did have to use it once in the California delta. It took me 5 plus miles back to the dock at night.

 

[brags]

If it makes you feel better get one. I’d suggest looking for a used little Honda, Merc or Yamaha from 2.5 to 5 hp. Probably get a used one a lot cheaper. Also you’ll probably need a long shaft model. Even a .3 gallon will run a little 2.5 hp an hour or two.
Forget paddles or Orr’s. They are fine for canoes and row boats. But try sitting on the gunnels of your boat paddling. If you have to go a few feet no problem. If you have to paddle a 1/4 or 1/2 mile or more prepare for a couple hours of paddling. If you are paddling into the wind then just forget about it, you’ll never reach shore. You do need to carry a paddle in your boat for going short short distance.
An electric trolling motor would work fine but they aren’t cheap and you should carry 2 batteries to be sure you have enough juice to get back. If you don’t also use it for fishing then carring 2 batteries is a lot of weight and hassle.
Having a kicker gives peace of mind. I have an 18’ boat with a 6 hp kicker I use for trolling. It make me feel good and confident that if my main motor doesn’t start some time, my 6 hp kicker will get me home. I did have to use it once in the California delta. It took me 5 plus miles back to the dock at night.

Ya I will have a look online for used options. Going to take a transom measurement to determine if I am going to need a long shaft model.

Thanks!

 

[JimS123]

Also you’ll probably need a long shaft model. Even a .3 gallon will run a little 2.5 hp an hour or two.

Any boat roughly 19' or less will take a short shaft. A long shaft tilted up will still drag in the water.

My 3.5 Merc 4-stroke at speeds to get the boat home in an emergency will consume its 0.3 gal in about a half hour. I keep a siphon, a small fuel bottle and a funnel so I can draw from the main tank.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

120 HP max for a 14' er? Better measure your boat Mate. A 2.5 HP kicker will move the boat as far as the gas you have to run it.

 

[Sea Rider]

If going for a 2.5 HP kicker better go for a 3.5 HP. Usually are same CC power heads, will push much better at slow displacement speed that will take you back to Terra Firme if combo doesn't encounter strong up winds. Will push top if correctly propped to run full wot revs for that size combo and load.

A prop maximization usually to a less pitch size is something nobody does since near everyone assumes that factory delivered prop will do its homework top when at full throttle, which is not so, that's by plain experience taching engines and maximizing props for under powered OB's to power larger boat applications. It's a night/day pushing difference while engine revs safely at around or max wot rpm range.

Happy Boating

 

[JimS123]

If going for a 2.5 HP kicker better go for a 3.5 HP. Usually are same CC power heads, will push much better at slow displacement speed that will take you back to Terra Firme if combo doesn't encounter strong up winds. Will push top if correctly propped to run full wot revs for that size combo and load.

A prop maximization usually to a less pitch size is something nobody does since near everyone assumes that factory delivered prop will do its homework top when at full throttle, which is not so, that's by plain experience taching engines and maximizing props for under powered OB's to power larger boat applications. It's a night/day pushing difference while engine revs safely at around or max wot rpm range.

Happy Boating

I think we had this same discussion elsewhere. You are correct in your optimization, however the 2.5 and 3.5 have only 1 prop to chose from. So this engine on a big boat will never reach full rpm.

 

[Sprig]

Any boat roughly 19' or less will take a short shaft. A long shaft tilted up will still drag in the water.

My 3.5 Merc 4-stroke at speeds to get the boat home in an emergency will consume its 0.3 gal in about a half hour. I keep a siphon, a small fuel bottle and a funnel so I can draw from the main tank.

I have a 18’ Alumaweld Stryker and my 6hp kicker is mounted next to my main motor on the transom. It is a long shaft and does not drag in the water when tilted up. Also I used the same long shaft kicker on another 15’ boat which the kicker was mounted on a outboard mounting bracket. That also did not drag water when tilted up. On both boats if it wasn’t a long shaft it would not have stuck down into the water sufficiently. Even now in choppy water when the boat rocks and the kicker is running the prop sometimes comes out of the water or close to the surface and cavitates. A short shaft would be worst.

Also so I have a friend who has a 16’ heavy gauge aluminum boat with a 2.3hp Honda kicker that has a .29 internal fuel tank. When we troll at 3/4 to full throttle we get an hour use before refueling. I agree though the op will need to carry a small container of fuel and a funnel.

 

[JimS123]

I have a 18’ Alumaweld Stryker and my 6hp kicker is mounted next to my main motor on the transom. It is a long shaft and does not drag in the water when tilted up. Also I used the same long shaft kicker on another 15’ boat which the kicker was mounted on a outboard mounting bracket. That also did not drag water when tilted up. On both boats if it wasn’t a long shaft it would not have stuck down into the water sufficiently. Even now in choppy water when the boat rocks and the kicker is running the prop sometimes comes out of the water or close to the surface and cavitates. A short shaft would be worst.

Also so I have a friend who has a 16’ heavy gauge aluminum boat with a 2.3hp Honda kicker that has a .29 internal fuel tank. When we troll at 3/4 to full throttle we get an hour use before refueling. I agree though the op will need to carry a small container of fuel and a funnel.

My comment was a generalization. Make your own measurements and see what works. Just remember that at displacement speeds the prop location determines the shaft length, not the cav plate. Also remember that too low is worse than too high. Just don't starve the impeller.

 

[Sprig]

My comment was a generalization. Make your own measurements and see what works. Just remember that at displacement speeds the prop location determines the shaft length, not the cav plate. Also remember that too low is worse than too high. Just don't starve the impeller.

Agree

 

[Alumarine]

My comment was a generalization. Make your own measurements and see what works. Just remember that at displacement speeds the prop location determines the shaft length, not the cav plate. Also remember that too low is worse than too high. Just don't starve the impeller.

Just curious, why is too low worse than too high for a kicker?

 

[JimS123]

Just curious, why is too low worse than too high for a kicker?

Too low will cause unnecessary drag, wasting gas and reducing speed. When you're rockin and rollin you don't want the pee hole and above water exhaust to go under too long. If its too low you probably can't tilt it out of the water so it'll drag when you run the main.

If its too high the motor will usually run better and tilt easier.

Of course it all comes with caveats....
You shouldn't be constantly cavitating and running the impeller dry. If you have a retractable bracket you shouldn't be tilting the motor up anyway. The prop needs to be just below the bottom, not a foot below.