Electrical/starter problems

[bentstick]

Everyone raise your hands if you like playing with intermittant electrical problems!


Already spent too much money replacing parts, hoping someone has a better solution. I have a 1980 25
hp Evinrude. It used to startup just fine with the ignition switch but no more. When I turn the key nothing happens, no click noise, no starter jump, nothing. However I can rope it and it pull starts just fine. So I replaced the ignition switch, no help, then a friend (and expert auto mechanic) told me how to test the solenoid - Connect the two terminal, if it clicks its your starter, otherwise replace the solenoid. No click so I replaced the solenoid - didn't fix the problem.

Tired of wrenching on it I decided to go lake fishing anyhow and pull start it (can't put it in the river without good reliable ignition). Near the end of the day I was tired of removing the cover, pull starting and replacing the cover so for grins I turned the key and viola - it turned over and started. Tried several more times over the next two hours and it fired up right away every time.

Bring the boat home, let it sit for two weeks and guess what - it doesn't start! So what's the best fix? 12 gauge or or pull the plug next time I'm on the water with it?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

If you're using the regular white single lever OMC control box, the usual problem is that the safety switch within the control box is slightly out of adjustment..... nylon switch, held in place with 2 screws with white wires attached to it.

In neutral, loosen the screws slightly, press it closer to the cam that actuates it, then tighten the screws. Let us know if this cures the problem.

 

[bentstick]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

If you're using the regular white single lever OMC control box, the usual problem is that the safety switch within the control box is slightly out of adjustment..... nylon switch, held in place with 2 screws with white wires attached to it.

In neutral, loosen the screws slightly, press it closer to the cam that actuates it, then tighten the screws. Let us know if this cures the problem.

This motor is somewhat of a frankenstein. The control box doesn't appear to be original and there are no electrical connections/wires running to it, in fact there aren't any fuses on this thing either (on my to-do list).

Considering the situation I assumed the problem is with the neutral safety switch (assuming there is one). Looking at the diagrams for this motor on marineengines.com I've determined that it was removed at some point.

Just went out and dinked around with it again. Put it in neutral and turned key, heard it click. Put it in forward and turned key, the starter spun but did not engage. Put it back in neutral and turned key, starter spun and engaged. Tried it again and nothing happened. Put it in forward, neutral and reverse a few times and was able to get the solenoid to click again.

Thanks for the help! After a month of tinkering with this problem you were able to get me pointed in the right direction.

I don't understand why shifting back and forth seems to make a difference if in fact there is no neutral safety switch! Any ideas? Maybe its just a bad connect somewhere, however I did clean the battery terminals/connections as well as all connections to the starter and solenoid.

 

[bentstick]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

This motor is somewhat of a frankenstein. The control box doesn't appear to be original and there are no electrical connections/wires running to it, in fact there aren't any fuses on this thing either (on my to-do list).

Considering the situation I assumed the problem is with the neutral safety switch (assuming there is one). Looking at the diagrams for this motor on marineengines.com I've determined that it was removed at some point.

Just went out and dinked around with it again. Put it in neutral and turned key, heard it click. Put it in forward and turned key, the starter spun but did not engage. Put it back in neutral and turned key, starter spun and engaged. Tried it again and nothing happened. Put it in forward, neutral and reverse a few times and was able to get the solenoid to click again.

Thanks for the help! After a month of tinkering with this problem you were able to get me pointed in the right direction.

I don't understand why shifting back and forth seems to make a difference if in fact there is no neutral safety switch! Any ideas? Maybe its just a bad connect somewhere, however I did clean the battery terminals/connections as well as all connections to the starter and solenoid.

Tinkered with her some more, found the shifter lever sweet spot for starting. Sooooo, it would appear that there is a neutral safety switch somewhere! I know this is a stupid question, but is it possible the CDI Ignition pack is responsible?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

Tinkered with her some more, found the shifter lever sweet spot for starting. Sooooo, it would appear that there is a neutral safety switch somewhere! I know this is a stupid question, but is it possible the CDI Ignition pack is responsible?

No, the powerpack has nothing to do with that problem. You have two problems!

1 - The neutral safety switch would be either inside the control box (describe the box) or at the end of a black wire that leads from one of the 3/8" nut terminals of the starter solenoid. Find that switch and adjust it.

2 - Bad battery, good but low charged battery, loose cable connections, tight but dirty cable connections, or bad starter.

Check starter by having a good fully charged battery, then run known good jumper cables directly to the starter. Let us know what you find.

 

[bentstick]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

The control box has two cables running to it, one for the throttle and the other for the shifter. The manufactures markings had previously been removed. I recently took it apart to clean it and repaint it. The only adjustments I could find were the idle stop and throttle friction. On the solenoid one of the 3/8" terminals leads to the ignition switch, the other leads to the "spark adjust screw" (as labeled in the parts guide on marineengine.com). I assumed this connection was a ground but I guess its not.

I also noticed that by moving the shift lever to just the right position it cranks right up. However it can't be so much as an 1/8" in either direction. On top of that, when it does crank, there is a spark between the shift lever and the lower cowling. I had posted another thread on that topic but did not get any responses.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Electrical/starter problems

Okay, so it would appear that you have the old style control box that simply has the throttle and shift lever control... no electrical components.

The safety switch therefore would be on the engine, wired between the starter solenoid and a ground connection. Trace the black ground wire from the starter solenoid to the safety switch, loosed the retaining bolts/screws slightly and apply pressure to it so that the plunger you see in its center section is shoved in slightly more than it already is. That should take care of the problem.