Electric shock from trim switch

sgcheek

Cadet
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
27
My 94 200 Evinrude shocked me pretty good the other day. Both hands were wet, one on the stainless steering wheel, and the other on the throttle. I was starting to slow down and trimmed the motor down, only to be zapped from my hand on the throttle, through my shoulders and down the other arm to the steering wheel. I thought that I could feel a tingle at times with dry hands. This only happens when I use the trim switch on the throttle. Does anyone have any suggestions?<br />SGC
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: Electric shock from trim switch

Kinda sounds like your trim switch is shorting to the handle there sgcheek. May want to pull the control and take a look at the switch and wiring. Something sure is amiss. Is the control a flush mount or box?
 

sgcheek

Cadet
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
27
Re: Electric shock from trim switch

The control is a flush mount. I had it apart several months ago to repair the neutral detent, but did not notice if there was a bare wire in the handle at the time.
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: Electric shock from trim switch

Might take another look SGC. If I remember right, don't the TNT harness go through a small slot in the control to get to the handle? Might be a pinch point. Check around the coil the harness makes in there. Certainly a frayed wire there someplace. Gettin' zapped don't bode well with boating.:-O
 

sgcheek

Cadet
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
27
Re: Electric shock from trim switch

OBJ, <br /> Yes, the wires pass through a small hole into the handle. I have not had a chance to disect it yet. Another question for you.-- Have you any experience with a bad recirculation check valve on the crankcase behind the carbs on 200hp? My engine seems to load up and skips and misses slightly on holeshots after idling for just a few minutes. If I run it and pull back to idle, then try another holeshot, it leaps out hard like it ought to. I have slowly been checking things and found the recirc check valve behind #3 carb not working. I removed it and found that the innards were gone. The other 5 checked OK. I have only had this boat since December and it has always seemed to run rich up to about 25-2700. I have also ohmed out the coils and found a bad one of those. The manual states to start at 2-1/2 turns on the air bleed screws and that if more than 2-1/2 turns are needed to get a good idle, then look at changing the air orifice. My screws seem best at about 4-3/4 to 5 turns out, which puts me right at the recommended max from initial start. I am wondering if your experience may have turned up a bad check valve, and what symptons did you see.<br />Thanks in advance for your help.<br />SGC
 
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