Education on cooling systems

bbracken

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Messages
40
I consider myself a pretty good driveway mechanic and have quite a bit of experience with automobiles, some aviation, small engines, etc. I am also a retired engineer. I am new to marine powerplants. I am working on an overheating problem on a Merc 5.7 (see separate posting), and need some help understanding all that strange stuff bolted to the engine.<br /><br />1. Why 130 deg.? A few years ago cars ran at 160 or 180, but modern cars run at 195 or higher. My understanding is that the trend to higher temperature was driven by emissions and economy. So why does the same Chevy engine run at 195 in a Chevy and 130 in a Cobalt? I say "same" meaning the basic engine. I know the cam is different, but pistons, crank, bearings, compression ratio, fuel, etc are just like a car.<br /><br />Is it safe to run the engine at, say 160 or 180, not all the time, but say for an hour or two.<br /><br />2. Can someone direct me to a good explanation of the why's and how's of the exhaust system (manifold, risers, elbows...)? <br /><br />3. Why are there two separate water lines going to each manifold. <br /><br />4. What is the purpose of the ball check valves near the thermostat? I'm guessing that there is a venturi in the manifold that sucks water out of the block?? <br /><br />5. Thus, it would seem that the cooling system is not pressurized much, if at all. How about the fresh water inlet to the block. Should there be a measurable pressure here?<br /><br />I realize that this is too much to cover in a simple message, but is there a book or something that explains the theory of all this.<br /><br />Thanks!
 

Delta Explorer

Recruit
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Messages
4
Re: Education on cooling systems

Yup, You were right the first time- You are a Engineer. So Sorry, but I can't help you with that.<br /><br />gl2u
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: Education on cooling systems

I will answer some. Most marine engines run a 150 degree thermostat. The motor will run 150 degrees and rise to maybe 170 wide open. The reason they do not run a higher temp is in salt water get a lot more deposites as the temperature rises. If you run a heat exchanger with fresh water or antifreez in the engine can run a higher temp and actually run a little better. I worked only with the OMC 3.0 L 181 CI. The cooling system is not pressurized. The outdrive inpeller pumps water up to the engine thermostat housing. The engine water pump sucks water in and circulates it thru the engine. The water from the outdrive continues on over the thermostat and into the exhaust manifolds. The water surounds all the exhaust tubes coming out of the heads to keep them cool. The water then flows into the risers and at the exit of the riser then mixes with the exhaust gases and flows out the prop or exhaust outlet. The reason for the riser is to stop any water from being forced into the engine from a wave from behind. Without the riser water from a following wave could be forced into the exhaust outlet and pushed up the exhaust into the engine cylinders. The riser should be high enough to stop any water from getting into engine. When the engine gets up to temp the thermostat opens and lets hot water out of the engine so circulating pump can suck in more cold water. The hot water joins the other water going thru the exhaust manifold. If your over heating things to look for are. Make sure you have a good flow of water coming from the outdrive impeller by removing that hose and leting flow overboard or into a bucket. Make sure the engine circulating pump belt is tight and pump is moving water, the same as a auto. Make sure the thermostat opens like a auto but around 150 degrees. Next problem spot is at exit of exhaust manifold where water goes into the riser. Rust and scale plug up the holes where very little water can get thru, big problem in saltwater engines. Have the same problem at exit of riser. If engine is overheating you can remove hose from engine to exhaust manifold and run water overboard, if engine cools down then can bet have a restickion in exhaust manifold or riser. Do not run it this way to long as have no cooling to manifold. If find rust and scale in manifold output might be a good time to think about replacing manifold, as when manifold rust thru water will run back to exhaust valves and into cylinders. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

bbracken

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Messages
40
Re: Education on cooling systems

Boatist:<br /><br />THANK YOU for your excellent response. You mentioned a key phrase which I had completely overlooked: "salt water". That's a big difference between a chevy and a boat. 99% of my boating has been in fresh water (I am now in Wisconsin), so I completely overlooked that one.<br /><br />My boat did come with a 130 deg stat, which I have replaced with a new Merc stat, also 130 deg. Based upon your comments, and being in fresh water, I am using the boat a little this weekend since it stays around 160. I will change the impeller this week, however, and check the flows in the manifolds. As I mentioned in my other posting (Overheating Merc 5.7/260) I am bleeding about one gpm through a tap in the stat housing.<br /><br />Your description of the exhaust system was also extremely helpful. Thanks!!!
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: Education on cooling systems

If you are getting one gallon per min at adel I dout your over heating problem is the outdrive impeller. Let us know what fixes it.
 

dquigley

Cadet
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6
Re: Education on cooling systems

I just had to change out my exhaust manifolds and riser's as I run almost exclusively in salt. Changed the impeller in the out drive, thermostat, and she still was running a little warm. I couldn't figure out what was going on so as my wife was at the helm I lifted the engine cover and say my belts were slipping around the crank and water pump pulleys. I since have replaced them and she ran like a champ for a while. Now I can't get it started. no spark at the end of the plug wires, minimal spark at the coil wire. Where would you start?
 

Walter

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 3, 2001
Messages
787
Re: Education on cooling systems

Dave...<br /><br />I'd start out by posting your problem on a new topic heading and give all the details of make, year, model, etc...<br /><br />Walt
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
4,876
Re: Education on cooling systems

Try www.boatered.com about the ball check valves, seems like George said to remove them. The last 5.7 I work on had twins, the new engine that was installed did not have the check valves. The thermostats were OEM Merc 143 degree, engine run about 160 degrees F. You have to insure the temp sender is grounded, Merc uses a gasket with brass rivit to ground thermostat housing, using after market gasket will not always ground and the temp guage will not work correctly.
 
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