EATING POINTS

[PAKSUX]

I HAVE A BOAT WITH A 305 SMALL BLOCK MOTOR,MERCRUSIER WHICH WAS REPLACED A FEW YEARS AGO. EVER SINCE THE NEW MOTOR IT CONTUNIES TO EAT UP POINTS. WHEN WE REPLACE THE POINTS IT RUNS FINE FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AND IT BEGINS TO START MISSING AND BACKFIRING.ANY IDEA ON WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS TO HAPPEN? THANKS FOR ANY HELP!

 

[FlyBoyMark]

Re: EATING POINTS

What part of the points is it eating? The follower or the points themselves? If its the follower then the lobes on the rotor shaft have been damaged and wear away the plastic glide on the points. Are the lobes lubed? Rusty? You may want to convert to a pointless system also. (pun intended..) Also check for condensation under the distributor next time before you head out or start the engine.

 

[PAKSUX]

Re: EATING POINTS

WE ARE NOT REALLY SHURE, DO YOU THINK OUR PROBLEMS WOULD BE SOLVED BY PUTTING A NEW DISTRIBUTOR IN? OR ARE WE BETTER OFF CONVERTING TO AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION?

 

[FlyBoyMark]

Re: EATING POINTS

Pull the points out and compare them to a new set......look at the lobes that the little follower on the points rides on it should be VERY smooth with little bumps for opening and closing the points....Yes Electronic MARINE grade system would be better and much more reliable.

 

[PAKSUX]

Re: EATING POINTS

WHAT ALL CONSIST OF A CONVERSION?

 

[FlyBoyMark]

Re: EATING POINTS

Two types; one system converts the guts of the distributor (cheaper), the other replaces the entire distributor and coil setup (best but cost more). Personally, 10 miles offshore I would want a reliable current state of the art replacement distributor setup that's not affected by moisture so easily and has parts that do not make contact or wear out.

 

[DJ]

Re: EATING POINTS

PAKSUX,<br /><br />You have too much voltage going to your points. IF IT IS THE CONTACTS THAT ARE BURNING UP. They (points) cannot handle 12 volts. You need a ballast resistor in the run circuit. Most auto parts stores can supply one.

 

[IndySpecialty]

Re: EATING POINTS

yep djohns19 is dead right, you should have 12 volts going to the points only when cranking to aid starting, you can check this very easy with a volt meter, while cranking the voltage should stay high 12 volts plus, as soon as it starts voltage shoud drop,the ballist resistor is a good part of the plan, but what some times happens is the wrong solenoid gets installed, they look the same but are different 1 is a starter & 1 is a slave if you switch them and use them the wrong way the problem your having shows up, its all in the way there grounded, to much typing to explain. but not a bad idea to check.<br /><br />good luck