E/rude 6HP impeller replacement and l/u seals

Tim Frank

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,346
Since I started following the iboats forums, the replacement of OB impellers is a recurring topic, but one that I had previously never considered.
I have been running and self-repairing OBs for 40+ years but have never changed an impeller, either because of a failure or as a routine maintenance item. I had never even heard that particular recommendation.

Having said that, it does make obvious sense given the manner in which you could most likely expect to find out that the impeller in your outboard needs to be changed. :eek:

I have a 1975 6 HP (gets about 10 hours use/year) that I purchased from the original owner approx. 1998.
1) It has the original impeller, which was working fine when I winterised it last fall.
It is on the winter work list and I will be changing it before spring.
I had a SELOC manual which covered this motor, sort of, but never really used it and now can't find it.
Is there anything that a reasonably competent DIY-er can't handle on this, solo?
And as far as the parts go, are aftermarket parts OK, and how deep do you go on replacement? Wait until you open it up and assess, or at this vintage "absolutely replace ----and -----and ----"??

2) WRT to the gear case on this motor, there is some water infiltration over the season...replacing the screw washers has not completely solved the problem.
This is a fresh water only motor, so what is the down side of just draining and refilling at the end of the year? I would prefer not to open a potential can of worms, but am not scared of the actual prospect of taking the gearcase apart and replacing seals if it is really needed.
Is this a job (resealing) that can be a one-thing-leads-to-another chore, and if I have a go at it, where can you get the gearcase seal, cut from a roll but "no longer available"? Could you just use one of the good-quality water pump sealants?


I apologise for that queston about the seal availability as it has been answered in here before, but I can't get "advanced search" to work at the moment and the regular search hasn't helped.
 

Vic.S

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
4,718
Re: E/rude 6HP impeller replacement and l/u seals

Changing the impeller is a fairly easy job provided every thing come apart easily'

On that one there is a whole collection of bits and pieces that make up a seal at the top of the drive shaft that are supported by a pin through the shaft. You have to rotate the shaft until the pin aligns with a slot in the housing up there before you can lower it.

The shift rod has a joint which can be accessed once the gearcase is lowered a little.

Maybe worth changing the drive shaft seals while you are in there.

Most likely place for water ingress is the prop shaft seal as that gets damaged by fishing line

Very small amounts of fresh water may not be of great concern provided the oil is changed regularly and before the amount of water becomes excessive.

Cannot help with the spaghetti seal. mmne is a mid 80s model that does not have the split gear case but I'd say no to just using a sealant.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: E/rude 6HP impeller replacement and l/u seals

To remove the gearcase on a 6hp:

1. Remove spark plugs and ground the wires
2. Put shift in forward gear.
3. Remove the four bolts holding the gearcase on.
4. There is a pin through the top end of the drive shaft that must pass through a slot when dropping the gearcase down. Slowly rotate the flywheel while pulling gently downward on the gearcase. When the pin aligns with the slot, the g/case will come down a bit. Don't turn it any more.
5. Now, there should be enough room to get in there with a 1/4" drive socket and extension to remove the shift rod connector screw.
6. After the screw is out, the gearcase will come on off. Take a look at the positon of that pin so you know where to have it when you go to reassemble. And don't rotate the flywheel while the g/case is off.

When reassembling, take a flashlight and peer in there to make sure the groove is perfectly aligned with the screw hole in the shift rod connector. If not aligned, it will rub the threads off the screw and it will fall out five miles from shore. Got oars?
 
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