dual battery setup

[imported_wildcat]

I purchased a 2004 I/O SeaRay 200 with a 5.0L 260hp MPI/Alpha 1, but it only has one starting battery with an ON/OFF switch. The bilge pump/stereo memory is directly wired to battery with a circuit breaker in-line.<br /><br />I have done much searching of this forum and it appears that I need to add a deep cycle battery (per 18rabbit) for stereo/lights. I have no other onboard accessories.<br /><br />Very easy to just install a new battery with a 1/2/Both/OFF switch. However, it appears that I should also install a West Marine Combiner 150 to charge both batteries.<br /><br />Will it be necessary to reroute wiring from alternator and starter? I would like to keep this installation simple but effective.<br /><br />Also, does everyone agree that the deep cycle battery should be installed. The old timer at West Marine told me to install a dual purpose battery due to my limited accesories that I plan to use. He said the deep cycle is only necessary for refrigerators and multiple high drain accessories. The dual purpose will give me more starting power if necessary and also provide ample accessory power.

 

[tommays]

Re: dual battery setup

i have the same size boat and dont have anywere to squeze in a second battery <br /><br />how is you space they seam to build for comfort rather than practial<br /><br />its allways better to have more but i have done fine with one battery for 9 years<br /><br />i dont have the link now but there are a lot of recomend ways to hook up dual batterys on the web<br /><br />tommays

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

One thing about the MPI engines, is what it takes to start them. Merc and Volvo both recommend using "Starting" batteries, not deep cycle. The reason is to prevent the voltage drop from showing in the computer when starting. The deep cycle show a much deeper drop than starting.<br />That said, using a system that will keep the engines start battery isolated completely from the house battery is really necessary. I also found that using 3 of the ON/Off switches instead of the more common (and hard to use) 1/2/Both switchs is much easier to use. With a battery combiner, charge relay,or what ever you want to call them or an isolator helps pull this off.<br />You can just go to the boat, turn on the engine switch, turn on the house switch and you are ready to go. If you are anchored at night and leave the lights on you only loose your house batteries, and the engine will still start. No trying to rememeber which battery is number 1 or 2 or did I change it.....or even worse, left it in both and all batteries are dead.<br />The third switch is for emergincies and can be used to connect the house to start if necessary.<br />Here is how I did mine.<br />PS: This system shows 3 batteries for the house, but can have any number of batteries and it will work the same.<br /><br />

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

Tom,<br />I have the sundeck version and they placed the battery in the side storage compartment under the seat. I have room to add the battery immediately adjacent to the existing battery.<br /><br />I have done alot of research, but would like to avoid cutting and splicing existing wiring. I just want a house battery to run accessories while anchoring. I would also like the ability to recharge both batteries.

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

Don,<br />What type of battery did you use for starting battery and house batteries?<br /><br />How much rewiring is required to a new boat to accomplish this task?<br /><br />Sounds like I should leave this mod to the dealer.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

Mine engine is just a standard old style 350 Chevy with a carb, so anything will start it.<br />The house battery can also be anything, from a single 27 case deep cycle to golf cart batteries, the only thing you don't want to do is mix flooded batteries (ones you put water in) with the gel style, they have different charge voltages.<br />Below is the specs from Merc for your starting battery, you can use anything you want for house batteries.<br /><br />

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

Don,<br />How much rewiring is required to provide the setup you installed. Should I leave this task to the dealer?<br /><br />Thanks so much for your help. The charts you always provide are very helpful.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

It's just a matter of isolating the house system from the engine system. Since all boats are different, it's hard to give a "One size fit's all" answer.<br />On my boat I ran a Hot and Ground lead from the switch & battery for house power and hooked all fuese panels to them. The engine accessory lead was disconected and dead ended so it was no longer used.<br />If you aren't familiar with 12 Volt systems and how they work, it could get a little confusing. I've very seldom seen easy to understand wiring at the helm.

 

[paulrfrancisco]

Re: dual battery setup

No matter what your choice, I recommend that you get the "isolator" to prevent a dead or failed battery for drawing the other one down... you can charge both equally, but one will ont pill the other down... Also, like someone mentioned, some types have the abililty to join them together to get a boost is needed when starting.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

Actually Paul03, the combiner does the same thing, only it doesn't have the voltage loss the isolator does because the combiner (charge relay/solenoid) doesn't work on power diodes like the isolators do.

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: dual battery setup

Wildcat, I noticed that twice you asked if you should "have the dealer do this". It's a brand new Sea Ray, a beautiful new boat, I'm sure it wasn't cheap. It is also still under warranty, yes I would suggest that you have the dealer do it. If this is your first boat wiring project, I just don't think this is the time or boat to "learn" on.

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

I agree with everyone's comments and thank you. I believe that I will consult with the dealer, but I would like recommendations (Don?) as to which switches to install? The dealer has told me to just install a Perko 1/2/Both switch but I like Don's idea.<br /><br />It appears that a Deep Cycle House Battery would be preferred by most on the forum.<br /><br />Thanks again for your time.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

I personally used 3 of the BlueSea mini battery switches and a SurePower charge relay. Mostly because we had them in stock at the shop at the time.<br />But BEP makes a distribution cluster with the 3 mini switches and the charge relay all in one, that would make a very clean installation for about the same price as buying the seperate items.<br /><br /> BEP Distribution Clusters <br /><br />

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

Don,<br />Thanks so much. I will provide this information to my dealer and see if they can install. I would like to know if the cluster includes the VSR, is it still necessary to install an isolator, combiner, etc.? It appears that the VSR will charge both batteries, while also isolating them from bleeding between batteries.

 

[imported_wildcat]

Re: dual battery setup

Don,<br />Another question with the use of the VSR. It appears per the BEP wiring schematic that they leave the alternator orange wire connected to the starter and not rerouted directly to the starter battery. BEP connects the red wire from the starter to the engine switch. Do you think that is correct or am I missing something?

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

The VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) is a battery combiner, just another name for combiner or charge relay, or charge solenoid......confusing ain't it.... <br /><br />I haven't looked at the wiring on the BEP, if I get a chance this evening I'll have a look.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

Another question with the use of the VSR. It appears per the BEP wiring schematic that they leave the alternator orange wire connected to the starter and not rerouted directly to the starter battery. BEP connects the red wire from the starter to the engine switch. Do you think that is correct or am I missing something?

Either way will work. But I would go by what the manufacture recommends. There may be some difference in the internal workings that I don't know about, so the manufacturer wins over my "General" diagram.<br />I also noticed that BEP uses the word "Isolator" when talking about a battery switch in the installation drawing. That could get confusing.

 

[DayCruiser]

Re: dual battery setup

Merc-- Important, do not use batteries with wing nut connectors <br /><br />Its always something I am doing wrong--but why this?<br /><br />I switched to deep cell and everything seems to operate better even with the short

 

[Fishermark]

Re: dual battery setup

Hi Daycruiser,<br />I had the same concern and asked about it back in May - here's the post with responses:<br /> Tapered post or wing nuts <br /><br />For what it is worth, I still use the wing nuts and seem to have no problem.

 

[Don S]

Re: dual battery setup

The reason Merc, Volvo, Marine Power, and any other engine marinizer wants rid of the the wing-nusts is that they are very seldom tight. And on the EFI and MPI engines a loose battery connection may cause the engine not to start, even though it's cranking over. The higher voltage drop seen by the ECM (computer)tells it there is a problem.<br />Using standard hex nuts means you have to use a wrench or socket on them and they will be tighter.<br />On carbed engines it makes no difference.<br />While some people don't have problems with wing nuts, only means they tighten them down more than finger tight or they are just lucky yet.