Dps-m

[mnewman949]

Hello,

This is my first post, so be nice.

I have been researching this site and there is a lot of great information on here. I have been trying to find a list of part numbers for seals to replace.

I recently pulled the props on my DPS - M and drained the gear oil. This is the first time since I have owned the boat (1 year). I noticed a small amount of water evidence in the gear oil (slightly milky but not emulsified). I have not pulled the Out Drive as of yet but plan on doing this tonight to inspect upper drive bellows for water damage. I also noticed the drain plug only had 1 O-Ring and looked pretty beat up from prior install. Are 2 o-rings required?

I have a new Reseal kit that came with:

• Upper Bellows
• Lower Bellows
• Clamps
• 2 x 1" O-Rings
• Large Roller looking Bearing
• 1 Awkward looking rubber seal

Is there a resource on here for locating the Main Drive Seal, Shift Mech Seal and additional O-Rings I may need?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Mike

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

Just above your original post, click on Volvo Penta Parts, then go to OEM parts and find your parts breakdowns on the OEM parts lookup.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

This parts Catalog is not very user friendly, just part numbers with cryptic description and no schematic...


Can you give me an idea of what seals can be easily replaced once the drive is removed? From what I read it seems the water can be coming from:

1. Upper Bellows
2. Drive Shaft Seal (if Bellows is bad)
3. Shift mechanism seal
4. Dip Stick
5. Gear Lube sight plug
6. Drain Plug

Also is the drain plug/bolt supposed to have 2 O-rings?

Again, thank you for your help.

Mike

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

Did you use the OEM site or the aftermarket sierra site. Here is the one you want Volvo Penta Marine Engine Parts and Accessories Online Store - Volvo Penta

Then just find your drive model number under the drive section then under DP .

 

[dypcdiver]

Re: Dps-m

Welcome Mike, unless you find water in the bellows it is not entering there, as I think you have sumerised.
Yes it could be any of the rest of your list, but by just inspecting the dip stick and oil level plug O-rings you should get an idea if they are suspect. As you have mentioned the drain plug O-ring was beat up, I would suspect that (I like the easy route) However it could be either of the propshaft seals being a duoprop. Frankly the only sure method is a pressure test.
I have DP-SM drive that has done 13 seasons of 6 months without leaks, I have run it with Mobil 1 SHC 75W-90 synthetic for about 8 years without any problems. Drive is presently off whilst I replace the little hydraulic trim tilt Manifold (pig of a job).

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

Hi dypcdiver (clever handle BTW)

Thank you for your reply. have no serial numbers on the drive, I was informed I had a "DPS" not a DP-S(x). This makes things a little difficult as you can imagine. I have a couple questions for you.

1. Do you have two O-rings on your drain plug?
2. Do you know the part numbers needed for the main drive sea (just i case), and the shift mechanism seal?


My exhaust bellows is "toast" and I purchased the "Re-deal Kit" below from my friend who works at West Marine.


I'll take images as I remove the drive tonight, hopefully someone can help confirm what drive it is.

Mike

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

Hi dypcdiver (clever handle BTW)

View attachment 189903

Mike

Please have a laugh on me... Billy Ocean Album!

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

DP-SM Transmissions - 7746010 - Volvo Penta

Volvo doesn't even list a DPS-M

Here is the Service Manual for your drive.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

Thank you Don. I believe the drive is a DPS. Isn't there a difference between a DPS and DP-S?

Mike

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

There is no such thing as a DPS-M.

The tag should be on the ports side of the upper gear box, partially hid by the trim cylinder.

What is the full model number of your engine? Right now we have no idea what you have except that someone told you you have a DPS-M, but since there isn't one, we nee to find out. Even a year of the boat MIGHT help a little, but boat year and engine/drive year aren't always the same.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

I'll find the serial when I get home tonight. Someone fricken brush painted EVERYTHING on this drive.

Boat was Re-Fitted in 1997 with 4.3 Penta and Outdrive.

More to follow shortly.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

I located the Tag on the Port side. Had to sand off a bunch of black paint and it is indeed a DP-SM. Now the question is did I purchase the correct re-seal kit (pictured in my post above) which contains he new Bellows?

Also, following the DP-S section in the service manual Don provided I can not see any information about removal or installation of the Bellows. (page 230)

Now that we know I have a DP-SM can someone point me in the right direction to replace the bellows?

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

I located the Tag on the Port side. Had to sand off a bunch of black paint and it is indeed a DP-SM. Now the question is did I purchase the correct re-seal kit (pictured in my post above) which contains he new Bellows?

Also, following the DP-S section in the service manual Don provided I can not see any information about removal or installation of the Bellows. (page 230)

Now that we know I have a DP-SM can someone point me in the right direction to replace the bellows?

View attachment 189993

Little help here please? I am about to break the 6 Lugs loose on the drive to pull it back with engine hoist.

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

Remove the drive.

View attachment SX R&R.pdf

To replace the U-Joint bellows without removing the bellhousing.
1. remove the snap ring from the exhaust bellows on the bellhousing side, and the clamp from the transom shield side and remove the exhaust bellows.
2. Remove the plastic nut from the Water hose connection on the bellhousing, then push the fitting back out of the hole.
3. Pull the U-Joint bellows out of the lip in the bellhousing, remove the clamp from the transom shield and pull the bellows out the bottom.
It's tight but it will fit.
4. Put back in reverse order. Make sure the U-Joint bellows is completely in the groove of the bellhousing when installed. Flat spots in the bellows indicates the bellows is not in the groove completely. See service manual.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

Don,

I was able to pull the bell housing off with the drive. I am stuck now to the drive not separating from the bell housing. What gives? Is it corrosion between the 6 studs? Should apply heat? At a point where I don't want to pry on the edges too much fearing I may break something!

Also, once I pulled the drive bellows a large amount of water also came out with it

I have read enough to know that its time to replace the main drive seal and u-joint. Anything else I should be concerned about?

Thanks for your assistance,

Mike

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

http://forums.iboats.com/volvo-pent...ives/sx-m-drive-stuck-suggestions-594894.html

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

http://forums.iboats.com/volvo-pent...ives/sx-m-drive-stuck-suggestions-594894.html

Thank Gawd! I read that whole thread (thank you) and was able to put some heat on the bolts but they had been greased before. It was the bearing housing that was really corroded and causing the headache. I used a coupe pry-bars and kept working my way around the mating surfaces and was able to get it separated. Some minor dinging on the flange edges but I don't think it makes a difference (correct me if I am wrong).



I have a couple questions.

1. What is the best method for getting this bearing out? I have soaked it with penetrating oil and will be back on it in the morning.


2. Where the Drive Bellows mates to the bell-housing is there not supposed to be some type of clip or clamp? My old one came right out. (see picture)

 

[dypcdiver]

Re: Dps-m

The bit you have hold of in the last picture should be pulled through the pivot housing (bell housing)and the lip on the bell housing should be where your thumb is. The seal is made by the front edge of the bearing carrier (picture 2) butting up against it.

There is a section about various pullers for the gimbal bearing, if you do a search there is plenty to read, take your choice. I use a small 3 legged puller with a tapered rod screwed down the centre to spread the legs. (careful now!) then a slide hammer.

 

[mnewman949]

Re: Dps-m

I was able to remove the bearing with a expansion style slide hammer. As mentioned I use penetrating oil and soaked thoroughly the night before. I mocked up the gimble housing with bellows installed and noticed how the flange of the main bearing housing seats against the upper bellows seal.

I have one last question. I was under the impression that all exhaust and cooling water was diverted out the tail end of the out drive. After re-assembly yesterday I ran the boat on the trailer and noticed most of the cooling water and exhaust is exiting before the bellows. I cant tell if this is by design or if there is a Zinc that is corroded through where water is exiting.

 

[Don S]

Re: Dps-m

Those are idle relief ports, and out of the water most of the water will come out there, especially if the drive is trimmed up higher than those ports.