Downsides of buying an IO Saltwater boat in the north east?

[hostage]

I only boat on fresh water inland lakes, though I do see a few boats come up in my searches that I like, though the only downside is they are on salt water. I have read and heard that salt water is harder on boats, especially ones with IOs. I know the annodes need to be swapped out to Magnisium for fresh water. I also hear that the manifolds and risers must be replaced often. I am unsure if salt water effects the hull anymore than salt. Granted boats up in the North East boats don't sit in the water year round and people tend to flush and keep antifreeze in the cooling system when it is off season. Is there anything else that I would need to account? While I would like to avoid salt water altogether, the lack of boats that meet my needs on the market is rare. Should I just expect $3-4k in expected repairs in the near future from the salt water, then the boat should be good to go or is the boat cursed, once it hits salt water?

 

[dingbat]

Should I just expect $3-4k in expected repairs in the near future from the salt water, then the boat should be good to go or is the boat cursed, once it hits salt water?

Depends on the build quality of the boat.....

If the boat was built for saltwater use, you should only have to deal with possible drive issues.

If the boat was built for "freshwater" use, sitting in salt air for a couple of seasons can and will take it's toll on hardware (railings, latches, etc.) and the electrical system........connectors, switches, fuse blocks, etc.

The good news.......SW boats typically have a much lower occurrence of rot.

 

[Chris1956]

OK saltwater minimizes rot in wood. That is a backup strategy. However it corrodes metal whenever it can.

Boats are "built" for both salt and freshwater, it makes no difference to the OEM. The real difference between salt and fresh water is the maintenance cycle. Cast iron manifolds and risers last forever in fresh water, and 8 - 10 years in saltwater. Blocks seem to last in salt water for 20+ years, so that is not an issue. In salt water you will find that water pumps, thermostats, belts and other stuff is affected the salt. Wiring is an issue among other things.

 

[Lou C]

A lot depends on the power package. Outboards don't need near as much maintenance as I/Os in salt water. Also, if the boat was used in salt water but not moored or slipped in salt water, that is a difference as well. The worst example would be a slipped or moored in salt water raw water cooled I/O, boats like that not only need manifolds/elbows every 5-7 years, but they need regular drive maintenance (drive pull every year to check bellows, grease gimble & u joints if grease-able). The engine will eventually get to the point where it may need new cyl heads, due to internal corrosion, this may cause leaky head gaskets and overheating. IMHO a raw water cooled inboard is good for approx 15 years before you run into those issues. If the maintenance was always done, repairs done when needed etc, they can be fine. If neglected (typical bad example is not changing the exhaust on time) there can be big problems. This is true even for boats not slipped or moored in salt water. So your critera could be:
Outboard or I/O, outboard safer bet due to less need for maintenance
Trailer or lift stored or salt water stored during season, in the water storage will result in corrosion concerns on I/O outdrives and transom mounts.
The hull itself, is not affected by salt water but anything metal can be, as well as wiring/accessories.
Maintenance records are important, especially for the I/O.

 

[KJM]

Having owned both, I would stay clear of I/O's period, but thats just my opinion!

 

[tpenfield]

Owning and having sold salt water boats in the north east, I see nothing wrong with them.

As with any boat, you really need to see the boat and determine its actual condition. Salt water does require more maintenance, mostly the engines and outdrives (for I/O powered).

If you do end up buying a boat that is used in salt water (regardless of location) it would be best if the engine has a FULL closed cooling system. That way there is only the riser/elbow that would get exposed to the salt and the ensuing part replacement would be less.