Doing gimbal, belows, for the first time on a Bravo 3. Have some questions

[b4tn]

I think I have all the tools. Alignment, retaining ring installer, gimbal puller, hinge pin tool, water hose tool, shift cable adjustment tool. I am installing a transom kit with the sealed gimbal bearing, bellows, and seals. I also have a new lower shift cable. I am using a motorcycle lift and 2x6's to remove and install the assembly. My drive serial number is on the Ol range mated to a Merc 5.0 EFI in a 2000 searay BR. I could not find the exact service manual but I think #14 is the closest. I am diving into this tomorrow and have some questions.

Do do I need to use the bellows glue on the shift cable boot and do I need to use the glue on the side of the ujoint bellows where the retainer ring is pressed in?

the kit came with a ton of o-rings but no diagram. Where do they all go? Is it possible they sent extras? And does anyone use any RTV or any other kind of sealant on the places where the drive mates with the bell housing?

the gimbal bearing I have is the sealed type and comes with an Allen screw to plug the grease fitting on the bell housing. Since it’s not greasable you don’t need to line up the grease slot. But it still has a white dimple on the bearing face. I assume that’s the side facing you after it’s been pressed in correct? But what do you line up the white dimple with?

Is is there a part number or a hose length and size for the speedometer hose and the oil feed hose? I have been told it’s best to cut the oil feed hose out to avoid breaking the fitting so I was going to replace that as well but can’t find any part numbers for either one.

Also, the kit came with a whole bunch of metal clips. I have seen these used for exhaust bellows. I am using the exhaust tube do I still need them for the tube? And do you use them for the shift boot and ujoint bellows also? Looks to me like they would prevent the bellow from sealing properly.

Since the Gimbal is the sealed type do I need to remove the old grease seal? Or should it be left in place if not damaged?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am mechanicly inclined but never worked on boats. I am nervous that I am going to miss some little trick that is super important but not in the manual.

 

[tpenfield]

Not sure if the manual calls for adhesive on the shift cable bellow, but my recollection is that it is not called out for the end of the u-joint bellow that goes into the bell housing.

the oil line is sold by the foot as I recall - I just bought some fuel rated hose at the marine store and cut it to length. Use the old line as a guide to the length you will need.

The oil line is difficult to install, so you might want to get that installed into the bell housing first, then ‘pull’ the u-joint bellow through the bell housing opening.

Are you you replacing the water inlet hose? You will want to check for Bravoitis and use the new style hose kit accordingly.

once you have the bellows, cables, hoses, etc connected to the bell housing, you can install the pivot pins and the senders. Grease the pins/threads so they won’t seize up over time.

 

[Fun Times]

I could not find the exact service manual but I think #14 is the closest.

If you truly have a Bravo stern drive then you need service manual number 11 or # 28 would do too....#14 is for the Alpha stern drive.

The gimbal bearing I have is the sealed type and comes with an Allen screw to plug the grease fitting on the bell housing. Since it’s not greasable you don’t need to line up the grease slot. But it still has a white dimple on the bearing face. I assume that’s the side facing you after it’s been pressed in correct? But what do you line up the white dimple with?

Though the position of installing the non-greasable gimbal bearing is debatable of why, the service literature from Mercruiser still recommends that the dimple of the bearing be installed at the 10 o'clock position which subsequently tends to put the grease hole at the 4 o'clock position inline with the grease hole/tube should you use the greasable gimbal bearing.
As for the grease seal behind it, 100% up to you. The newer non-greasable gimbal bearing doesn't need the seal but the seal will still fit/work just fine should the old seal be left in place uncompromised or should you have already bought or received a new one.

Is there a part number or a hose length and size for the speedometer hose and the oil feed hose? I have been told it’s best to cut the oil feed hose out to avoid breaking the fitting so I was going to replace that as well but can’t find any part numbers for either one.

The new hose will be item number 12, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s...30967/1943/330

Also, the kit came with a whole bunch of metal clips. I have seen these used for exhaust bellows. I am using the exhaust tube do I still need them for the tube? And do you use them for the shift boot and ujoint bellows also? Looks to me like they would prevent the bellow from sealing properly.

The manual should show you where each clip needs to go if any doubt plus your old bellows may (should) have them still installed before removal.....Be sure to take very careful note of the positions of each clip and especially the angle positions of the hose clamps screw heads as they need to go back exactly plus the manual should mention this as well....Also take special note of how the U-joint bellows is currently installed if it looks originally installed.....Yes the tube needs the clip too as the clips are part of the bonding system to help corrosion issues.

There are lot's of You-Tube videos online of how to do this job should you want to see some work done in action before digging in yourself..

 

[b4tn]

Thanks guys! I will have to do some research. I have never hear of bravoitus. I am doing the water hose but just have the standard tool and was going to re use the compression fitting.

 

[Mischief Managed]

I don't have much to add, but I did document the procedures when I did the work 8 years ago. Photos and such here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1500205917053.2071101.1591328395&type=1&l=a95d978078

 

[b4tn]

I don't have much to add, but I did document the procedures when I did the work 8 years ago. Photos and such here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1500205917053.2071101.1591328395&type=1&l=a95d978078

That’s perfect! Do you have a better link? I can get to the main page with thumbnails but the picture links don’t work and the more photos link says it’s expired.

 

[salty3rd]

I just did my bravo 3. I was warned not to break the plastic oil fitting that goes from the drive to the gimbal housing. Well I thought I was careful but I wasn’t careful enough. I can’t stress enough to be super careful when cutting/removing the hose from the fitting. Also, make sure when you pull the u joint bellows in to the helmet it sits nice and flat and in the groove or else you will never get that ring in. Good luck..

 

[Mischief Managed]

That’s perfect! Do you have a better link? I can get to the main page with thumbnails but the picture links don’t work and the more photos link says it’s expired.

I changed the security from "friends" to "public". Try now: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1500205917053.2071101.1591328395&type=1&l=a95d978078

 

[achris]

make sure when you pull the u joint bellows in to the helmet it sits nice and flat and in the groove or else you will never get that ring in. Good luck..

'Helmet' = bell housing.

 

[enginesilo]

A friend or extra set of hands is worth 10X when doing this job. I did the job on my Alpha 1 Gen 2 solo and I could have really used a spare set of hands during some steps. Invite a friend over for beer, pizza, and bellows

 

[b4tn]

Thanks for all the input. I was able to get everything pulled apart today. I was really hoping to finish but was running out of steam.

So so another question. This is my second season with the boat. The place we bought it from did all this work already and I can tell. All the bolts including the hinge pins came right out. Even the trim sender screws came out with ease. Everything looks very new inside. The shift cable, the water hose, the oil feed line, even the bellows are all new looking. The u-joint bellows however was full of water and the gimbal bearing was shot. Noisy and lots of back and forth movement. There was also water behind he shift bellows. Could water be getting in the bellows from the bilge? Or is this most likely that the bellows was not sealed when put in?

 

[achris]

In theory, yes water can enter the bellows from inside the bilge, but the water level would have to have been above the level of the crankshaft, and for quite some time.

Chris........