Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

[Solittle]

I have been boating in salt water for 35 years. I have had boats with brakes for the last 16 years. I started out with drum brakes only because they were on the trailer when I bought it. I quickly became an expert with drum brakes despite wash downs and fresh water flushing kits. I was always replacing parts and when I wasn't the brakes were not working.<br /><br />About 9 years ago I bought a set of disks and now I would never have anything else. Mine were made by Tie Down Engineering and they have been great.<br /><br />I did find out today that once every couple of years you do need to completely dissemble them and clean out the salt water crud. That means complete disassembly, clean & put it back together. I am not finished yet but do not think I will have to buy any parts.<br /><br />I had planned to go out tomorrow so one of the things I wanted to do today was to check the break fluid. That led to a complete disassembly & cleaning of the master cyl. I then went to bleed the brakes and one cylinder would not bleed. That led to further inspection & complete disassembly. There is absolutely no evidence of corrosion but lots of the salt water crud under the dust covers around the pistons.<br /><br />So if you have disks (drums too - uhg!) don't wait until the day before a planned outing to check.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

Do the disk calipers and brackets have any better corrosion protection on a trailer than on a car because of salt water dunking? Are you applying anything to the parts after cleaning?<br /><br />Thanks for the long term disk brake report. Always great to read this type of first hand, real life (not "1000 simulated launches") end-user reports.

 

[tommays]

Re: Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

just replaced my drum brakes again every 3 years <br /><br />so its gooooooood to here that the tie downs did last in the real world<br /><br />any problems with the brass parts sticking to the alum?<br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[Solittle]

Re: Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

An update 24 hours later - I finished the disassembly and cleaning. One of the brass pistons blew out with compressed air very easily. I had to use channel locks on the other due to the salt crystals (crud) build-up. Everything cleaned up nicely. AND THEN to reassemble - The brass pistons are a very tight fit going into the cylinder. It has to compress the rubber seal that is fitted into a groove in the wall of the cylinder. I coated all with fresh brake fluid and went to fit it. No go pushing by hand. I tried putting a wood block on the top of the piston and tapping with a hammer. No go that way. Then I put it into the vice. The piston went in a little bit and jammed. It jammed off center an scored the wall of the cylinder. I was not comfortable that I could get a good seal with the scored cylinder plus I still had not gotten the piston in. Also this was only one side with the other not removed yet. So - -<br /><br />With credit card in hand I went to Northern Tool and bought a new pair ($119.00/wheel so $250.00) total). They come complete with rotor, bearings and seals and all plates and SS hardware. I would normally slug it out in trying to fix the old but when considering the safety aspect and the time I had in it I went for the new. I would do it again and really like the design. Check out their web site.<br /><br />P.S. I did call Tie Down today and one of the things I found out is that the type of steel used for the rotor is highly resistive to corrosion (which I can bear out) and not the same as used for automotive world. This means that they can not or should not be resurfaced due to the type of metal used.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

So Little<br />Sounds like you and I have the same problem. I know of several saltwater boater that have also had the same problem. Some got free replacements when they failed within one year. I got mine in June of 1999 and mine are the aluminum ones with out the black power coating of the newer ones. Just wounder if your are also the aluminum ones with out the power coating. Calipers are $63 per side.<br /><br /> http://www.championtrailers.com/TIEDOWN_ENGINEERING_DISC_BRAKE_PARTS.HTM <br /><br />You can also get the whole hub, bearings, disc, Caliper, and mounting hardware for $98 per side.<br /><br /> http://www.championtrailers.com/TIEDOWN_ENGINEERING_STAINLESS_DISC_BRAKE_HUB-ROTOR_UNITS.HTM

 

[sincraft]

Re: Disk Brakes and Salt Water - A Word to the Wise

Oh come on, that takes the fun out of everything - planning is for rich folk...running off half cocked is the way to go I say! <br />Of course I am joking and of course I wanted to get my boat running this weekend but in time I allowed myself to bring an old boat to life just to fish,...well let's just say I will be lucky to have it running by July the 4th! I probably have to replace the floor, probably have to rebuild the engine, and I probably have about 30 manhours of work on the trailer itself! <br />ALL THIS for a little 15 foot fishing boat that only holds 900 pounds! That said, if for any reason, I am going to bring it up to safe just to have a hobby to keep me busy and feel like I accomplished something when I pop her into the water and catch my first fishy from it <br />You of course have a more serious boat..so - gl to ya! Hope the weather is nice and your boat gets to get a bit of water time..<br /><br />S