Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

rabbitprobe

Cadet
Joined
Jul 17, 2010
Messages
9
I have a 1973 volvo aq170b that had a bad coil. It was tough only SOMETIMES to start with the bad coil and would die only when the coil got hot. Anyway, I replaced the coil and everything was a go. But it started to get tougher and tougher to start. It always would, but I'd have to crank the crap out of her to get going. Once going it ran like a champ (would sometimes die near idle though). Thought I had a timing and idle problem, but it was still there after adjusting both. Finally she just would not start. I pulled the ballast resistor off and sure enough it was bad (broken core). I didnt have my meter with me so I could not get any voltage specifics, but I could feel spark at the distributor (but much weaker than normal), even with the broken core of the resistor. I'm putting in a new resistor this week, but my question is do you think the bad resistor was the cause of the delayed starting? I've heard that these work or they don't, start or no start (or start and die if there is a 12v bypass, which mine does not have).
 

captk

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
252
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

You should really check the voltage at the coil with a meter while cranking, and running, in to and out of the resistor. Have you changed or serviced the points and cond.?
 

rabbitprobe

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Jul 17, 2010
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Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

Planning on checking voltage when I put in the new resistor. Points and condencer changed about a year and a half ago and ran fine most of that time. Points still look fine (gap wise). The hard starting had me order an electronic ignition conversion before the no start issue anyway, so they are not long for this world.
 

rabbitprobe

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Jul 17, 2010
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Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

Replaced the resistor and it started right up...but backfired and died. Reapeat and the same. Checked the volatge to the coil and all at this point and everything checks out. Pulled the plugs and they are pretty fouled up, most likely from all the cranking I've had to to lately to get her started. after a few starts and fails, it's tough to start again. The battery is a little low on juice at this point, so I don't think I'm getting full juice to the coil with the starter spinning. Going to replace the plugs and put in the electronic ignition when it comes in this week. Got the battery on the charger too, so hopefully she'll start right up after I get everything in.
 

Aloysius

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 21, 2010
Messages
484
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

It shouldn't be cranking AND utilizing the ballast resistor...the ballast should only be on the run circuit.

The electronic unit will require a full 12 volts to it, so it can't wire through the ballast resistor.
 

rabbitprobe

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Jul 17, 2010
Messages
9
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

You would think, but there is only one wire going to the + side of the coil...from the resistor. I was thinking that the wire from the starter to the coil that engadges 12 volts when the starter is run must be missing, but the wiring diagram in the workshop manual reflects my setup. + lead into resistor+ into coil with no other + to the coil..
 

Aloysius

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
484
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

Bad ground? At this point, maybe bad condenser?

Interesting. Are you sure you don't have a fuel problem also??
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,516
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

Run a jumper wire straight to the battery and try it. You can at least get all the wiring up to the coil out of the equation.

Remove the tach wire from the negative side of the coil. A bad tach can also cause this problem.

I would replace the points and condensor as well.
 

rabbitprobe

Cadet
Joined
Jul 17, 2010
Messages
9
Re: Delayed starting-Bad Ballast Resistor?

well, looks like a blown head gasket, at best. Replacing the resistor did get the boat starting, like a said, but once it wouldnt run, I figured I'd check comprssion. ll cylenders are low, and 2 and 4 have zero compression. I engine did overheat a few months back. Maybe it was blown, but runnable and the gasket deteriorated to the point it's at now? going to do a leak down so I can figure out where its losing compression. Ordered the gasket today hoping thats all I'm going to have to do. No water in the oil though.
 
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