dead bilge pumps

[mikiedo]

I have a Gambler,'97 209TE, the bilge pumps quit working last summer after a 2 day drive to Minnesota. Up there, we checked the switch on the console and it was fine, we found no power getting to the pumps. For some reason, the console switch light stays on, in both on & off mode.<br />I got a new float switch last week from Gambler, turns out on the old one the float had busted completely out. It plugs in, has a plug much like a trailer light connection so you can't get it reversed. Add water, still no pumps! Console switch still lights in on or off position. My next try is to see if there is now power to the pumps (we nicked the wire to each pump to test with a pencil light).<br />Any suggestions? thanks, m

 

[Franki]

Re: dead bilge pumps

bypass the switch altogether for a test..<br /><br />hook power up to the motor, if it fires up, its fine and the switch still has a problem, if it doesn't fireup, then its a motor problem.<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank

 

[Jerry M.]

Re: dead bilge pumps

I had the same problem with the Live well pump on my new (used) boat. I took the pump out and apart and found a small piece of plastic had been sucked in, and jammed the impeller. The pump had made no sound when activated.

 

[Kesh]

Re: dead bilge pumps

Well, the other day I had a dead bilge pump too. As we were about to check all the system and install a new one, we decided to take the opportunity to do a detailed inspection/repair. I will list the things I think are important:<br />- Check switch and fuseholder separately. If switch looks very old (exposed to sun and water) I would recommend replacing. Fuse holder generally only require cleaning, but check for losy cap and if needed, replace the whole thing. Check also rating of the fuse to match the recommended size for the bilge pump model you have.<br />- Check all connections behind the switch and fuse holders. I found defective ones in our boat.<br />- Check all cables of the bilge pump system. I even replaced the hot wire coming from the center console to the bilge pump for manual operation. It was corroded to the bone.<br />- Check grounds. I found them to be very, very dirty. I was amazed how the hell the pump was working before.<br />- Check all the connections near the bilge pump (float switch to pump and pump to power). They tend to get wet and corrode. I replaced all connections using marine grade crimped connections, then used silicone, and a final cover with liquid electric tape. I also arranged all the cables with tieraps and put all the connectors at the highest point, so risk of getting wet are reduced. Also, this helps to avoid obstruction of the float switch.<br />- Clean the suction area of the pump. Debris tend to accumulate there...I found any sorts of things there..lol<br />- Test your pump separately. Our old (and the new one too) pump was Rule. It burned out and quit working (you could smell the burned motor coils inside). We installed a new Rule, 2000 gph.<br />- Be sure of the electric diagram for commom bilge pumps installations, so you connect everything correctly. I read two excellent articles in advance, in order to be prepared. Here you have the links: http://www.marinesurvey.com/yatch/bilge_pumps.htm and http://www.uaf.edu/seagrant/boatkeeper/bilge-pumps.pdf <br />- Check and clean the discharge hose. I applied garden hose water pressure and displaced a debris ball out of the discharge hose. Now the pump founds no resistance in the discharge and the volume of water pumped out is higher.<br />- Make sure your electrical bilge system has power all the time for unnattended service.<br />- make sure you have the correct number and size of pumps for your boat. First link above is a good guide on that topic.<br /><br />I hope the above details help.

 

[Boatist]

Re: dead bilge pumps

Mikiedo<br />Thing I found interesting is light is on with switch on or off. Are you sure this is a power light not a light on top of fuse holder. I have seen several types of fuse holder that will light if fuse blows. Is your switch On/Off/Auto or just On/OFF??? I would make sure I have a good ground for your meter then check the switch input voltage and output voltage. Also Fuse input and output voltage. If good at Switch then go to pump end and check there. If good at pump end and have good ground on pump then time for a new pump. If good at switch and bad at pump them must check wire and float switch. <br />Good Luck

 

[Kesh]

Re: dead bilge pumps

Hey mikiedo<br />I scanned the electric diagram that came with my new rule bilge pump. It shows a switch (made by Rule) which serves to select 2 positions: AUTO (the switch is in the top position) and MANUAL (the switch is in the bottom position). You can see that the red light is turned on only when a) you select the auto position and the float moves up in the presence of water or b) you select Manual position, and you provide 12 volts directly to the pump, no matter the float position. I dont know if your switch is similar to this one, but I hope it can help you find the problem.<br /><br />