Damaged prop - repair or replace?

[BeaufortTJustice]

Pulled a SHT yesterday and ran too shallow, causing my skeg and prop to drag along the bottom. I was at idle speed and the skeg deflected most potential damage, but the prop suffered some scrapes around the edges and one spot (maybe a square-inch worth) is noticeably bent, although only slightly. No vibration or anything else unusual...it got me back 5 miles to the ramp ok.

I can get a new one for about $100 on the interweb. Should I go the new route, or try to get this one fixed? What's the drawbacks, if any, to getting it fixed? It's just a basic black painted aluminum, 14.25" dia (probably smaller now...lol) 21 pitch. Thoughts? Opinions? All are welcome.

Thank you.

 

[raven7]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

Pick up the new prop and send the damaged one in for repair. Then you would have a spare for the next SHT event.

 

[Rocky_Road]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

Pick up the new prop and send the damaged one in for repair. Then you would have a spare for the next SHT event.

I agree with using your current prop as a 'spare'...I don't leave home without one.

But...if this were my prop...and it was still functional (as you suggested)...I would save the cost of any repair and toss it in the storage compartment of my boat. It's kind of like the spare in your car trunk...it is probably the worst tire you own, but it holds air and will get you home!

Just my opinion...probably worth about $0.02 American.

Happy boating (and watch your depth)!

 

[BeaufortTJustice]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

In light of both your responses, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new replacement from right here on iBoats. I decided on the QL series from VP. $105 with free shipping. I'm not looking for cutting edge performance, nor do I have the budget for it, so hopefully the one I ordered will do ok (no worse than the oem one I damaged, at least).

I do not plan, at least initially, to repair the old one, I'll just keep it as an emergency spare. What I will do, however, is gently grind some of the jagged spots and burrs around the edges with a dremel tool and at least smooth 'em out a bit. Asisde from the risk of removing too much material and causing an imbalance, is there anything else to be careful of while grinding?

Thanks for the input.

 

[Rocky_Road]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

In light of both your responses, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new replacement from right here on iBoats. I decided on the QL series from VP. $105 with free shipping. I'm not looking for cutting edge performance, nor do I have the budget for it, so hopefully the one I ordered will do ok (no worse than the oem one I damaged, at least).

I do not plan, at least initially, to repair the old one, I'll just keep it as an emergency spare. What I will do, however, is gently grind some of the jagged spots and burrs around the edges with a dremel tool and at least smooth 'em out a bit. Asisde from the risk of removing too much material and causing an imbalance, is there anything else to be careful of while grinding?

Thanks for the input.

Nope...clean away!

Just don't give your prop a knife edge...it isn't required, and can be dangerous if you are changing it out on the water!

Happy boating!

 

[QC]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

Agree, but you mentioned a square inch of "bent" . . . Be very careful trying to straighten bent aluminum. I would hammer it lightly to straighten as opposed to try and tweak with pliers or a vice for example. Go VERY slow, and it shouldn't break off . . . I've fixed a bunch by hand over the years. I used to boat on a very shallow stretch of the Colorado years ago, and I kept a ball peen and a block of wood on board. I got pretty good at it . . . :redface: I'd use a simple hand file to clean up burrs. I can get pretty crazy with a Dremel . . .

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Damaged prop - repair or replace?

I agree with QC. One square inch isn't that much unless it is bent to the point where you can see the alum splitting. Get the ball peen and the block and go after it. Saves all the hassle of going clear across Dallas and waiting a week or so and clear across Dallas to get it. Course with www and UPS things are different then they were when I ran alum.

My 2c.

Mark