Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

[Sal G]

Just got back from a boat yard. Mechanic refuses to do a rebuild on my engine because it is a looper<br />(140 85 VRO). Says that the aluminum used on these engines (OMC) tend to be porous - BUT if the engine was a crossflow, he would tackle it.(made it sound that they are better constructed metal wise). This is only getting me more confused. Is this mechanics' reasoning justified? Would still like to do a rebuild but I don't believe in throwing good<br /> money into something bad.<br />Thanks for your replies.

 

[Sal G]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Is this a common response by mechanics towards general looper outboard rebuilds?

 

[Hooty]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Tell that guy (he's not a mechanic) the dudes on iboats said he was full of caca. That engine is plenty rebuildable unless it's got a big hole some where that doesn't belong.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty

 

[OBJ]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Big DITTO for Hooty's post!

 

[Sal G]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Thanks guys!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

hello<br />out of all the v4 loopers the 85-86 small bore was the besat to overhaul. no worries anout the liner corroding away from the sleeve. my 1985 120 was done about 1995 because a friend that owned it then dropped a screw though it. it is still vro and runs almost every day. it is my workboat.<br /> good luck but i think i would find another mechanic.

 

[Sal G]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Thanks Rodbolt!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

hello again. I just read my last post. dang good thang I aint no sekertary. my spelling is only defeated by my lack of keyboard prowess.<br />the 1985-86 120 140 loopers were very good engines. some of them liked to drop reed assy screws now and again. its amazing how much damage a tiny 10-32 brass screw can do. if the crank and rods are ok then bore 4 and put new wrist pin bearings, rod bearings and at least a bottom main bearing. go though the carbs. update to the 4 wire VRO clean the VRO tank and put in a new filter. make sure you have the latest part # self test horn and new t stats and water pump and it should go a long long time. BTW why did it fail? if you cannot determine why it failed,bad gas, over heat loss of oil, the alarms did not work or just a total lack of maintenence. odds are it will do it again. try to post why it failed. I would be interested to hear your mechanics point of view. if the block has been changed to a big bore then carefully inspect the aluminium around the cyl sleeve. good luck and let us know

 

[Sal G]

Re: Crossflow vs.Looper -Difference in metal?

Hi rodbolt.<br />Engine started to bog down on and off at WOT towards the end of last season and beginning of<br />this season. Suspected water in fuel- drained tank which did have quite a bit of water and installed a Racor fuel/water sep. That didn't help. Decided to check plugs and one looked very clean. Water was entering that cylinder. Compression in that cylinder was only 60psi (top left if facing front of engine) Others around 120-130 psi. Noticed head gasket<br />had slightly bent areas on metal rim with sort of a score mark near outer top edge of gasket.<br />Couple of small "dings" on head of piston.<br />Don't think it was detonation because the engine NEVER misfired. Ran very,very smooth.<br />Replaced gasket and the engine ran great for several weeks (compression went up to 80-90 after gasket replacement). This boat hit 6200 rpms so I don't think I had a problem with carb. Did note that she would stall more frequent than usual when I first started her up and put her in reverse. Anyway, on my final trip I heard a difference in the sound of the engine. Max at WOT<br />was 3000 then rpms. Next day checked compression<br />and that cylinder was 5 psi! Circumference of the piston looked chewed up along with cylinder head(area circling the dome). Suspected that a ring was on its way out and finally broke. Minor scoring in that cylinder. Haven't used the boat since because I don't want a bore job to turn in to a sleeve job. Looks like original small bore of 3.5" Never had a problem with the vro but will change over to newer version as a safegauard.<br />Always maintained engine, winterization, lower<br />unit drain, etc, plugs. I think it just came down to her time to be rebuilt. Thanks again for your interest. Happy Boating!