Crap.Almost had to call 911.

[geekomatic]

I rebuilt my 2HP Johnson Seahorse.New impeller,new points,coil,plug wire and carb kit. I had issues with the low speed needle valve which I posted earlier.This was fixed thanx to a new needle valve and help from you fine Gents.I popped it in a bucket and cranked it up.It runs OK in "start" and "fast".It dies if I try to put the thing in "slow".I cannot get the needle valves set just right for whatever reason.Screw it.I threw it on the back of my canoe and tossed it in the river just about the time the corp of engineers decided to generate power.It got me upstream for just under a minute before dying.Not a good thing in a strong current.While drifting downstream I noticed that the carb is still puking gas out of the high speed needle valve,just like before.I swear I've got the float set right and the packing was replaced in the valve,so I have no clue why this is happening.The high speed valve is quite loose,however.It actually moves with the motor vibrations??<br />At any rate, I was concentrating on this little problem so much that I floated right past the boat ramp for just under a mile.No chance in Hell fighting that current with an oar.Had to ditch the boat,call the wife,get the truck,go back and get the boat.The sun went down while all of this occured.Just got back and I'm a bit puzzled to say the least. Sorry to ramble.Any idea what's going on? <br />Does any other HP carb fit this thing? I think the carb is really jacked up due to my efforts removing the broken low speed needle valve.<br />Thanks in advance,as always.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

Gees, if that high speed needle is puking fuel like you say, the packing and/or packing nut is fubar'd. If it rattles loose, same thing, it's leaking fuel and sucking air. It's a small wonder it won't run right on the top end. I don't have a print of your carb, but, does your carb have a Boss gasket? This is a fat (possibly an o-ring type) gasket on the high speed pickup tube in the base of the carb bowl? If it leaks, you'll never get it to idle at a slow speed. Fuel is being sucked directly into the intake, by-passing the high speed needle. I'm sure you searched for the J.Reeves destructions on adjusting single and dual needle carbs, right??<br /><br />Post the year of your motor, I'll see if I can find an exploded view.<br /><br />edit: Found it, it's a '79

 

[mikeyzx2]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

shoot, look around for a scrap carb for parts, the packing is supposed to prevent the needle from moving so something's not right. <br /><br />that's why I carried a trolling motor with me, been there done that

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

OK, yup you've got a Boss gasket. Jump over to ishop marine and have a peek at your carb, it's part 21. The packing nuts are the same for the High speed and Low speed needles. Be sure they are both snug, but not so tight that you can't adjust the needles. If you do tighten the packing nuts, be sure neither of the needles is fully closed, before you pick up the wrench. Tighting the packing with the needle seated , can jamb the needle into the seat, deforming the needle AND seat or deforming the needle/carb threads.<br />BTW, rebuilding that carb, should be a walk in the park.

 

[geekomatic]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

I took the carb off the motor and took it apart again. The strange thing is that when you do a rebuild on these things, those Seloc kits always seems to be missing stuff.Both of the needle valves always have a nylon or plastic washer in front of the packing.That Seloc junk (and I'm really starting to dislike everything they market) never has a replacement washer, but always has double the amount of packing, which is what I used.Big mistake on my part.<br />I went to Ace hardware and bought a couple of nice,thick nylon washers that fit the valves perfectly.These cost me a total of $1.09.<br />I printed out Joe Reeves' carb adjustment tips months ago.I cannot thank the man enough, and live by those simple rules. I did set the float correctly the first time, but I double checked again today.The boss gasket was replaced the first time,so it's cool.<br />After getting the thing back together, I spent a good two hours getting the needle valves adjusted correctly. This seems to be a trial and error process that takes patience. It now idles down to a crawl and rips like crazy on the high speed setting. No more leaking gas as well.It starts on the first pull. I am very happy now.<br />I do need to share one little thing that will give you guys a laugh. The reason it stranded me last night and would not start back up: I ran out of gas....didn't notice until today.<br />Mikeyzx2,I've got a fine trolling motor. The current in this river eats that stuff for breakfast.You might as well be hanging your bum out the back of the boat and trying to fart upriver.My oars are useless.The Trout are lean and mean.Water is very fast and very cold.<br />That's the main reason for the urgency of getting this thing going.I feel it's my duty to get out there and cull the herd.<br />Thanks Guys!

 

[itstippy]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

OK, Geek, you're on the water with the canoe. Did you ever get the 1958 18HP running? Where are the Traveler pics in Restoration?

 

[geekomatic]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

Sorry for the big delay.I've actually spent time in LA. getting my friends' lives back together, just to have them bail out again because of this latest storm..<br />The 18hp is NOT running. I rebuilt the carb, got it all back together and attempted to start it with the electric starter.The starter bracket snapped in half.I have carb issues, but they are going to have to wait. I'm not pulling that rope start for hours again trying to get the carb adjusted.The starter bracket appears to have had a crack in it that existed before I bought the motor.There's a dark patch of oxidation on one area on the break that looks like it's been there for awhile. I guess all it took to complete the break was my attempt at using it.I have searched for three weeks for a replacement. I found out that this particular motor/starter combo was only produced for three years: '56,'57,'58. After that, Evinrude switched to a fiberglass or plastic cowling that didn't require this type of starter bracket. I might as well be pissing up a rope. I've also attempted to have the thing welded back together. It's cast aluminum, so that's another slim-to-none chance.If anybody has one of these things,I'm always happy to increase your bank account.<br /> The Traveler is going to be for sale soon. I've come to the realization that I will never have the time to finish this restoration due to my obligations with the two jobs that I juggle.Quite a bit of travel is involved, and I never get a chance to work on it. Anyone with interest in it can certainy contact me, as I am very close to giving it up at a very cheap price.I simply do not have the time,unfortunately.<br />I have,however, become quite addicted to the motors.

 

[itstippy]

Re: Crap.Almost had to call 911.

Electric start on a 18-20-25HP is a luxury option many folks wish they had. I've seen starter and bracket assemblies go for more than an entire motor (sans electric start option) on eBay. Sheesh. I think oldtime owners love their outboards dearly but get bad backs & arthritis or whatever and can't pull the rope no more at all. So they convert to electric start at any price. Anyway, if it's tuned properly your motor will start on third pull every time. For a healthy person the starter and accompanying battery are just that much unnecessary weight. Ah, "if it's tuned properly". And you just rebuilt the carb and need to tune.<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=030468#000000 <br />That old 1961 FD is now on "old faithfull", my ugly 14' aluminum Vhull that gets me on the water whenever I want to go. Starts on third pull every time. Like you, my project boat (late 50's early 60's runabout) is taking FOREVER because I have to earn a living and never have any time to spare.