Cracked Clear Oil/Fuel Hose

NickM8283

Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
10
I recently discovered that this clear hose was cracked and broken off on the end connected to the fuel line. Symptoms were an oil leak down the engine area and the engine would not idle. The engine seemed alright at higher RPM. I replaced the hose but am wondering what damage I could have done by running it before I found the problem. Any information would be helpful.
 

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kytooner

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Messages
35
Well if it was completely off as in not delivering oil into the gas damage could be severe depending on how long you ran it that way. Would be good idea to do a compression check.
 

wn6ngp

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
211
That hose doesn't look like the oem hose. I wonder if it was a lower quality replacement or is that your new replacement in the photo? That's the kind of thing that gives me nightmares on my 90elpt. If it didn't overheat and compression is ok then you may be lucky.
 

NickM8283

Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
10
That hose doesn't look like the oem hose. I wonder if it was a lower quality replacement or is that your new replacement in the photo? That's the kind of thing that gives me nightmares on my 90elpt. If it didn't overheat and compression is ok then you may be lucky.
You are correct, the hose in the picture is the replacement one. I bought it from Orielly’s and cut it to length.
It did not overheat and it seems to be running fine now. I got a compression tester and attempted to do a compression test but it did not work. I pulled the plugs, screwed in the gauge, put the throttle to wide open, and when I attempt to crank it, the bendix gear raises for a couple seconds and then lowers. It will not stay up to keep turning the flywheel, so the gauge won’t read anything. Is there something I am doing wrong?
 

NickM8283

Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
10
You are correct, the hose in the picture is the replacement one. I bought it from Orielly’s and cut it to length.
It did not overheat and it seems to be running fine now. I got a compression tester and attempted to do a compression test but it did not work. I pulled the plugs, screwed in the gauge, put the throttle to wide open, and when I attempt to crank it, the bendix gear raises for a couple seconds and then lowers. It will not stay up to keep turning the flywheel, so the gauge won’t read anything. Is there something I am doing wrong?
I will charge the battery tonight to see if it just didn’t have enough to keep cranking it, but it sounded alright.
 

kytooner

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Messages
35
I will charge the battery tonight to see if it just didn’t have enough to keep cranking it, but it sounded alright.
Yes battery needs to be charged. Most recommend grounding the sparkplug. I normally pull the kill switch. So if the battery is fully charged and still not moving the needle in all cylinders then I would make sure you have it correctly connected (as in no leaks in hose and all sealed up). Could be a bad tester the ones you get from local auto store that cost around 50 bucks are not known for being good quality. Your looking for similar psi in all cylinders within 10%. FWIW low compression can still run ecspecially not in the water. But if all cylinders are similar within 10% your probably ok.
 

wn6ngp

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
211
That may be a bit of good luck to discover a battery on its last legs when you are at home vs on the water. Time to charge it all the way up and check it with a load tester. They may loan you a tester from an auto parts store.
 

NickM8283

Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
10
I did the compression test after charging the battery. The gauge climbed very slowly up to about 150 psi for each cylinder. That seems really high, and it took way too long to get there. Do I have a bad gauge?
 
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