Coupler Question

[dmangi]

I just bought a new coupler (2" Class 2) because the other one was all rusty and because they arent very expensive. Two questions: First, I notice the old one sat right on top of the frame and the holes line up. This one I have to raise about 1/2 inch off the top of the channel for the holes to line up. I don't think that makes a difference, but let me know if it does.<br /><br />The main question I have is, do you need to adjust the nut inside the coupler? I dont have it on the trailer yet but I put it on the ball just to see how it fits and it is pretty tight. I mean I cant swing it freely, I need to hold both pieces to swivel it, but its not too tight where I need to put a lot of pressure. The other one swivels quite freely but I never checked the nut on that. Just wondering how tight it is supposed to be and if you should grease it or the ball or anything on occasion.

 

[djvan]

Re: Coupler Question

Dan,<br /><br />Mine did the same I welded it on (clamped to the top of the tongue) and then ground the holes out to accept bolts. I didn't like the fact that all the pressure would have been exerted on the two bolts alone.<br /><br />As far as adjusting the coupler tighten it fairly tight some people use grease I personally don't (too messy).<br /><br />DougV>

 

[dmangi]

Re: Coupler Question

Yeah I thought of that too, but then I realized, all the weight is pushing the coupler up anyways, so it doesnt really matter if its flush with the channel or not, right? You know what I'm saying? Thanks.

 

[MrBill]

Re: Coupler Question

Dan:<br />Your last assumption is OK. When attaching the coupler to the trailer, you're suppose to use four bolts, not two that go through the coupler and trailer. Four independent bolts with washers outside and inside, with four nuts is the proper way to go. It doesn't matter if the nuts are outside or inside. Inside, although more difficult, will lessen injury unless the bolt ends are capped.