Re: Could someone help me out...post some pics.
I don't have one installed currently (for pics), but you can do a lot of "dry" designing before you ever drill a hole.
I hate long gobbled up paragraphs, but I can't very well help it in explaining this.
Bimini says to me that there is no windshield connection so build up your frame, pad the rods that will be secured to the deck later (to keep them from scratching your gel coat while measuring) and set it on the boat with someone to hold it and help you move it when you need to change something. Open the frame to the fully extended position....like it would be if the top were installed....but don't install the top now as it is just that much more weight to fool with.
The straps will attach and be held in place (with a screw) at approximately the half way point between the deck mounting lug and the top of the canopy.....in the center of the respective support essentially....that should be part of your instructions with the canopy.
First is to decide what to do with it when not in use. They make slides so that you can pull the whole thing forward for usage and slide it aft for stowage....separately purchased item in various lengths. Get them before you drill any holes if you want it to slide to stow.
When stowed it just lies there, gravity keeps it in place. So you are only interested in the erected configuration when considering where to anchor the straps in the gel.
You will have 4 straps holding it in place; 2 sets either side, one fore, one aft in each set. The straps will attach to the deck with a bracket which should be mounted pointing fore and aft.
Set the length of the straps to mid length with their adjusters.
Move the frame to the most forward position desired which will be the location when in use. The straps don't allow you to move it back and forth without a great deal of hassle in the use position, so where you put it will be where you will be using it. Consider it covering people sitting in the seats with the sun at different angles, whether you want to stand up and fish behind it, things like that...........like why did you buy it in the first place sort of things as you think about the best mounting position.
Once there, mark the spot where the frame would mount to the deck, checking side to side and fore-aft measurements for uniformity and squareness with oneanother....you don't want a crooked top. Grin
With someone rigidly holding the fully extended frame in the desired USEAGE position, pull one of the forward straps forward to a position such that it is 90 degrees from the tube to which it is attached. You may have to play with this somewhat to get the best 90 degree fit (as close as you can) and still have the length of your strap somewhat near mid length (need some up-down room to tighten it once installed). Then, if you can move the snap end of the strap outboard of the tubing a couple or so inches, do it and mark the spot where the snap touches the gel coat. The purpose of this is to add rigidity to the frame.....reduces the opportunity for it to rock back and forth as the boat sways.
Now go to the rear of the same side with the frame still rigidly held in the same position and do the same thing with the rear strap.
Mark the other side exactly the same as this side and you are good to go.....remember to keep your measurements on both sides equal.
The only thing to remember, is that if you do get a slide, get one long enough to allow you to slide the canopy to the rear the desired distance for stowage, and also long enough so that when you are in the usage position, the mounting bracket for the frame to the boat interface has enough room to move adequately forward in the slide and still be able to attach the forward end of the slide to the boat.
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On drilling the gel coat, if you can get a sheet metal drill slightly larger than the thread diameter of the screw and drill with it just until you get thru the gel and into the glass....and stop. Then continue on with a smaller diameter conventional drill bit. For me, I try several sizes, smallest first, drill into the glass enough to get a couple of threads of a screw in the glass. If the screw goes in with moderate resistance you are good to go. If not go up in drill bit diameter till you can get the screw to run with moderate resistance. Too much resistance and you will break the screw. Too little and it can strip out.
Now, back to drill bit types. The gel coat will crack and splinter if you aren't real careful going through it. You might find a spot on the boat where you have some gel that you can't normally see and practice there. The sheet metal bit I mentioned has a different ground tip than a normal bit. This bit has a sharp protruding outer diameter and quickly the bit is cut back to a flat surface across the bit till you get close to the center where a point is made. The center point is just slightly longer than the perimeter point. What this does is cuts the OD of the hole before you start removing any significant quantity of material and keeps the gel from splitting. You might also put a thread on here in the appropriate place asking for opinions on the best way to drill gel without splitting and whatever you choose to do, try it first as I mentioned.
Back-plating and bolting the top shouldn't be necessary. The mounting screws provided work very well.
When finished with the installation of the top cover and the completed assembly on the boat, tighten the straps to the point where there is reasonable pressure on the frame. Reasonable pressure to me is grasping the frame with your hand and attempting to move it around with the pressure a 10 year old girl might be able to generate.
I do not trailer my boat with the top up (launching/loading excepted). Also if your boat is capable of speeds over 40 mph expect some bowing of the canvas as a result of the wind especially if you have a windshield on your boat and the canopy extends forward of the top of the WS. Straps need to be good and snug for operations like this, but don't get them so tight that you pull your screws out......you probably won't get that far as you can't get the snaps into the deck brackets if you have the straps too short/tight.
Need more ask.
Mark
