Cooling system question

unixgeek13

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 22, 2004
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Hi all...<br /><br />I just picked up a 1989 Regal Sebring 195 with a 3.0 litre Mercruiser - Alpha One I/O. This is my first I/O, although I've had a few outboards. <br /><br />Somewhere along the way home (2.5 hours) from the dealer, I thought of a question or two that I should have asked. How can I tell what kind of cooling system I have? I'm assuming that it has some sort of closed system to go along with the fresh water pickup on the lower gear case. I don't see a visable tell-tale on the alpha one when I have the earmuffs on the engine with it running. Is this normal? Also, water seems to come out where the transom meets the sterndrive. Is this normal too?<br /><br />Sorry for such elementary questions, but I/O is a brave new world for me!<br /><br />Thanks to any who can lend a hand.<br /><br />...Steve...
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Re: Cooling system question

The closed (freshwater) cooling systems have a water-to-water heat exchanger. It is a black 24" cylinder with a cap on it which contains 50-50 antifreeze and water. It will be obvious when you look at the engine. The antifreeze is circulated by the engine's waterpump(located on the block). In addition, freshwater cooling systems come in three types. Some cool only the block, some cool block and manifold, and some cool block, manifold and riser. You can trace the hose pattern to determine which one you have. <br /><br />There are no teltale type indicators on the Alpha-1. However you should have a temp gauge you can watch. When you run on the muffs, water should come out of the base of the bell housing. Some may also come out through the prop.
 

unixgeek13

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Jul 22, 2004
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Re: Cooling system question

Chris,<br /><br />Thanks very much for the quick and thorough reply! I can't wait until the monsoon here in Northern NJ ends so I can get under that cover and look!!!<br /><br />Thanks again.<br /><br />...Steve...
 

unixgeek13

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Re: Cooling system question

OK... no sign of this canister and the water pump appears to be fed directly from the lower gear case on the stern drive. I'll be running in a saltwater bay... should I be flushing the motor with ear muffs and hose with any frequency? Concerned about the effects of lingering salt water in the system.... Also, when time to winterize, how would one treat such a system? <br /><br />I see a cooling system add-on in my future...<br /><br />...Steve...
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
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Re: Cooling system question

I'm not sure about flushing the salt water from your system, but definitely get the cooling system add-on. <br />Winterizing is easy. Just put some Stabil in your gas the last time out and run that through your carburator for a few minutes. There will be several drain plugs on both sides of the motor and probably one around your water pump. Look around, there should be 5-7 drain plugs; although I'm not familiar with that exact motor.<br /><br />p.s. I work with UNIX too. Isn't it great?<br />Jeff
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
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Re: Cooling system question

oops, anyway, open those drain plugs (you can leave them out over the winter if you won't lose them and are worried there might be more water in your engine) and let them drain.
 

unixgeek13

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Jul 22, 2004
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Re: Cooling system question

Hey Jeff...<br /><br />Thanks for the advice. It'll probably be pre-season next year that I add the cooling system, so we'll see how that goes. Generous fresh water flushes and an occassional jaunt on a lake should keep me ok for this year.<br /><br />As for the UNIX... I'm HP and have been a sys admin for about 15 years... wouldn't have it any other way!!!<br /><br />Later,<br />...Steve...
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Re: Cooling system question

Unixgeek, Normally a inline engine will have only one brass drainplug on the block. <br />When I first got my raw water cooled mercruiser I thought about adding a fresh water cooling system. I opted not to do it because the price was higher than two manifold replacements. In addition, I have never heard of a block failing due to rust, and the FWC systems usually cool the risers with raw water, so the replacement cost is the same as raw water cooled. In essence, I was unable to find a good economic reason to convert a motor that had been used in salt water for 5 years to FWC.<br /><br />PS a FWC motor is a bit easier to winterize, since you only need to drain and fill the risers with antifreeze and dump some antifreeze down the raw water intake hose
 

unixgeek13

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 22, 2004
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75
Re: Cooling system question

Chris...<br /><br />I like the way you think! Ease in winterizing (side yard storage in Northern NJ) and ultimately more economical. Now I can upgrade the in-dash stereo with the $$ you just saved me! ;) <br /><br />Thanks again! You guys are all great!<br /><br />...Steve...
 

Scaaty

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May 31, 2004
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5,180
Re: Cooling system question

Don't leave the block plugs out after draining. Threads can rust up and a real witch to get back in without a tap job. Any water that comes out is all yer gonna get anyway
 

Chris1956

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Re: Cooling system question

Folks, When we winterize I/O motors here in NJ, we drain the water from blocks, manifolds and risers, put the plugs back in and fill them with 100% pure antifreeze. The intent is for this antifreeze to mix with any water still in the block, manifold or riser. Also, a lot of I/O's have drain valves on the block. We remove the entire drain valve, since sometimes they clog with rust, and will stop the water from draining. Actually sometimes you need to shove a screwdriver into the drain hole in the block to clear out the rust! To complete the winterization of the motor, we dump some antifreeze down the ray water intake hose to "push" the water out of the power steering cooler and raw water impeller.
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
74
Re: Cooling system question

What type of antifreeze do you use and how many hoses do you need to remove to pour in the antifreeze? <br /><br />I have a 5.0L MPI 260 HP
 
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