Coolant weeping from engine water pump

[boltonranger]

1988 mercruiser I/O alpha1
4 cyl 165 inline.
Just replaced the HEX last year.
This afternoon on the muffs I got 'er going.
Noticed some coolant in the bilge.
Once engine warmed I saw a small drip.
After I removed the coolant recovery bottle mount bracket;
I saw the coolant coming from the weep hole.
I gather from some searching that I need to replace some seals.
Have any of you been through this?
I could really use some guidance.
-br

 

[cr2k]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

You need to replace the circulation pump. You may get lucky and find some seals for it being of that vintage. Need a marine pump, an automotive will work but is made of cast iron and steal and well with your closed system may work for a while for you.

 

[stonyloam]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

1988 mercruiser I/O alpha1
4 cyl 165 inline.
Just replaced the HEX last year.
This afternoon on the muffs I got 'er going.
Noticed some coolant in the bilge.
Once engine warmed I saw a small drip.
After I removed the coolant recovery bottle mount bracket;
I saw the coolant coming from the weep hole.
I gather from some searching that I need to replace some seals.
Have any of you been through this?
I could really use some guidance.
-br

We have ALL Been through this. Your cam seals are worn and you are starting to leak coolant. Read this: http://www.sterndrives.com/470information/470coolantleakrepair.html PITA, but not so very bad. If you have room to pull the harmonic balancer half the battle is won. After you read, come on back with any questions. Welcome to the "470" club

 

[boltonranger]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

I've read the instrux at the link.
Very helpful-thanks.
I have a couple questions.
Is the rotor installer tool (for 265 bucks) really necessary?
Would feeler gauges work?
What does the tool do exactly? Is it only to get the right distance to from the rotor to the block?
Also the timing chain tensioner - are they usually necessary?
btw there is plenty of room in front of the engine.

Also- I've spoken with my local boat mechanic
He hasn't needed the speediseals when he does this motor.
He said usually the cam isn't that bad and he also can "move" the seal to a good part of the cam.
Does that make sense to you fellas? (since I haven't seen the guts with my own eyes)
-br

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

Welcome to the 470 club.

I've read the instrux at the link.
Very helpful-thanks.
I have a couple questions.
Is the rotor installer tool (for 265 bucks) really necessary?
Would feeler gauges work?
What does the tool do exactly? Is it only to get the right distance to from the rotor to the block?
Also the timing chain tensioner - are they usually necessary?
btw there is plenty of room in front of the engine.

Also- I've spoken with my local boat mechanic
He hasn't needed the speediseals when he does this motor.
He said usually the cam isn't that bad and he also can "move" the seal to a good part of the cam.
Does that make sense to you fellas? (since I haven't seen the guts with my own eyes)
-br

The rotor installer is used to press the rotor/balancer back on the crank. If it is hammered on may cause damage to the maganets inside. You can rent one from Auto Zone and return it when you are done for free. Same as auto tool.

Feeler gauges are not need. Pressed back on till it stops. You'll know when.

Timing chain tensioner is needed on this engine, can't be run without it, It's already on your engine under the timing cover. It presses against the chain to give correct tension.

Maybe luck out without the speedi's, I used them.

Good Luck,
Eric

 

[boltonranger]

Good to know...

Good to know...

Thanks for the advice Eric...
I mentioned feeler gauges b/c the sterndrive site said to leave .010 inches between the rotor and engine.

My timing chain tensioner question wasn't clear.

My question was referring to the SD sites advice to change the tensioner.
I was only wondering if you who have done this
procedure have found the tensioner actually needing changed, or not very worn.

How did the speedi seals go for you?
-br

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

My timing chain tensioner was still ok.

Oil pan gasket was damaged removing the front cover. In the Seloc manual (hate to use that word on here), It said if the gasket is damaged a new one can be cut to fit the piece that extends under the timing cover. I also used Hi temp RTV and it did not leak a drop of oil.

The speedi's worked great, but they only cover a small area not much larger than the seal itself. I had to readjust the front speedi back a pinch because the seal still leaked after my 1st attempt.

 

[boltonranger]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

Help me understand - -the seal actually wears the camshaft?
Isn't it softer than the stock the cam is milled from?
I would think the seal would wear end of story; why does the shaft wear?
-br

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

Seals can and do cut into whatever surface they spin along. It's pretty amazing that a piece of rubber can wear a groove into metal... but I've seen it many times.

 

[Rocky_Road]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

Help me understand - -the seal actually wears the camshaft?
Isn't it softer than the stock the cam is milled from?
I would think the seal would wear end of story; why does the shaft wear?
-br

It just does...every expert that does this repair is telling you this.

To go to the extent of breakdown that you are going to do...and NOT use the recommended speedi-sleeves...makes zero sense. Are you prepared to retrace your steps to add these?

Read the link, and follow the advice. Your mechanic can claim to be able to relocate the seal, but is he willing to redo the job when, not 'if', it still leaks?

Happy boating!

 

[boltonranger]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

It just does...every expert that does this repair is telling you this.

To go to the extent of breakdown that you are going to do...and NOT use the recommended speedi-sleeves...makes zero sense. Are you prepared to retrace your steps to add these?

Read the link, and follow the advice. Your mechanic can claim to be able to relocate the seal, but is he willing to redo the job when, not 'if', it still leaks?

Happy boating!

Good points all.
Thank you Rocky.
-br

 

[Rocky_Road]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

If I came across too abrupt, then you have my apology!

As a fellow 470 owner...that has been where you are headed...you actually have a real 'bud'!

The key with this vintage engine is to find a mechanic that knows your engine. It is a great 'work-horse', but has it's idiosyncrasies that have to be addressed. The camshaft seal, and the stator charging system, are the main issues. I have dealt with both.... The rest is just common sense maintainence.

My favorite picture for our powerplant is:

Happy boating!

 

[gettin'even]

Re: Good to know...

Re: Good to know...

Thanks for the advice Eric...
I mentioned feeler gauges b/c the sterndrive site said to leave .010 inches between the rotor and engine.

My timing chain tensioner question wasn't clear.

My question was referring to the SD sites advice to change the tensioner.
I was only wondering if you who have done this
procedure have found the tensioner actually needing changed, or not very worn.

How did the speedi seals go for you?
-br

My tensioner was actually broke, so replacement was needed. The damn thing is almost $100.00....WTF? Also might be a good idea to replace the timing chain. Mine was quite stretched.

I too installed the speedi sleeves, as my cam had some grooving. So far, so good.

Read/learn as much as you can about this engine. Its hated by many, but if you know its weaknesses, and address them, it can be a strong-running fuel efficient powerplant.

 

[stonyloam]

Re: Coolant weeping from engine water pump

All great advice here, couple of other points of maintenance: Check your coolant level whenever you run the boat, same for oil. If you start to loose coolant (other than from the weep hole) find out where it is going ASAP, do a cooling system pressure check. I also think a compression check is a good idea when you get ready to put it away for the winter, gives you plenty of time to get things fixed for next season. You can get tools to do both from Autozone on a free loan. Have fun.