Convert to folding tongue trailer

JoshOnt

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
487
I currently have an ez lowder trailer theat is very wide and long for my driveway so I am going to have to store it somewhere else, I found a okay spot so long as I can shorten the overall length by about 2'. So anyone with experience converting a trailer to a folding one, how hard is it and would it be worth it compared to paying $100 a month for the 4 months that I can boat.
 

Cat nip

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2015
Messages
288
Its easy, pull the wiring back so you dont cut it then cut the toung drill 16 holes bolt it together and your done for 1 month worth of storage fees.
 

thumpar

Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
You could also do a pull out tongue. They can get shorter. That is what is on my boat trailer. The tongue tube fits into the main tube on the boat. There are 2 pins like what is used on the stinger for a hitch to hold it in. My trailer has brakes so there is a quick disconnect for that that is similar to an air hose disconnect. It is handy to have since I only have about 3/4" to shut the garage door with the tongue off.
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
I just did this and it's pretty straight forward, get the right size coupler for your tongue tube size. I used the weld in one $65. (the bolt on's about $20 more) If I remember right you can go out to 4' but the weight rating decreases. There's a chart in the instructions to figure your final rating by the length after coupler.

With tongue supported by a floor jack I moved the trailer jack back to where it needed to go, then used a metal chop saw held in place by the clamp on the table and a floor jack and wood block to cut it.

For cheaper options to cut it I'd recommend an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel or a last resort a sawsall. The chop saw or angle grinder give a more easily controlled cut to keep things square.

With the swing coupler (both halves bolted and pinned together) in place I clamped a straight edge to the side of the tongue on both sides of the coupler to help hold it straight/inline side to side then leveled the tongue using the trailer jack and used the floor jack to level out the other half to match.

There was some eyeballing until I was happy that it all lined up and welded it in place. Being an amateur welder I enlisted the help of my uncle who's a pro welder so that I would trust it. LOL

For bolt on I'd use the same process up to the welding but drill and bolt the three open sides one bolt at a time (one side covered by the clamped straight edge) eyeballing my alignment for the first few. Pull the straight edge off and finish the last side of bolts. re run your trailer wire harness and you're done.

You will also need longer safety chains as their attachment point needs to be moved back to behind the swing coupler and you'll need to ad some sort of keeper hoop up by the ball coupler to keep them from dragging.



 

batman99

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
393
You could also do a pull out tongue....

Last spring, I was thinking the same upgrade to my boat trailer. re: Telescopic square tube tonque with horizontal bolts holding it into position. And use external large plug with a 7-pin with 10ft coil wire extension from its connector (located near main frame) to the Tow Vehicle's 7-pin plug. When I want to shorten trailer's tonque, I simply remove a few horizontal bolts and telescopic the square tongue tube completely out (of the boat's frame). Clean and simple.
 

JoshOnt

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
487
I just did this and it's pretty straight forward, get the right size coupler for your tongue tube size. I used the weld in one $65. (the bolt on's about $20 more) If I remember right you can go out to 4' but the weight rating decreases. There's a chart in the instructions to figure your final rating by the length after coupler.

With tongue supported by a floor jack I moved the trailer jack back to where it needed to go, then used a metal chop saw held in place by the clamp on the table and a floor jack and wood block to cut it.

For cheaper options to cut it I'd recommend an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel or a last resort a sawsall. The chop saw or angle grinder give a more easily controlled cut to keep things square.

With the swing coupler (both halves bolted and pinned together) in place I clamped a straight edge to the side of the tongue on both sides of the coupler to help hold it straight/inline side to side then leveled the tongue using the trailer jack and used the floor jack to level out the other half to match.

There was some eyeballing until I was happy that it all lined up and welded it in place. Being an amateur welder I enlisted the help of my uncle who's a pro welder so that I would trust it. LOL

For bolt on I'd use the same process up to the welding but drill and bolt the three open sides one bolt at a time (one side covered by the clamped straight edge) eyeballing my alignment for the first few. Pull the straight edge off and finish the last side of bolts. re run your trailer wire harness and you're done.

You will also need longer safety chains as their attachment point needs to be moved back to behind the swing coupler and you'll need to ad some sort of keeper hoop up by the ball coupler to keep them from dragging.
Would you happen to know the name of the coupler or where I could find one? Searched for about an hour with no luck, then again maybe I am looking in the wrong places.
 
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