Control panel breaker=no start?

[fxnytro17]

I have a 96’ 21’ sea ray, with a 06’ df 150 Suzuki. I switched the older battery selector to a Perko and now I have no power to the ignition or the trim on the control or the engine.
next to the switch was a breaker box, I have the picture attached. I went to pull the cover off and in the process all the wire connectors pretty much disintegrated. Now I have no power to any switches by the helm. I’m just wondering if this would have caused the trouble with the engine electrical?

all other wires look good and clean. The breaker box was stock breakers.
having trouble finding the breakers as well. It’s a 50a for the control panel and a 10a for the bilge pump. I will use fuses if necessary but would rather keep it looking original.

 

[fxnytro17]

[No message]

 

[gm280]

I'd say you are in for rewiring the entire setup now. That looks beyond anything good. It really looks like a total replace and rewire every bit of it. I hope you have a schematic diagram or some idea where everything goes. If you can't find a replacement panel, you can have one made at a local trophy type shop. Either carry your old panel to them and tell them you want a replacement panel, or draw one up on some computer program with dimensions and have them make one from that drawing. Then buy the individual parts and start wiring... JMHO

 

[fxnytro17]

I hope your wrong haha but you do have a good point.
there are two hot wires. One for the 10a bilge and one for the 50a control panel and then 4 wires. One goes to the bilge pump and the rest go on the 50 amp to the actual helm, which was redone in 2006. This panel is the only original on the boat I believe. I was just wondering if the motor/ outboard controls/ gauges and ignition are usually wired in a different circuit then say your lights/ bilge pump etc. Eg: if you loose your lights / bilge while on the water it shouldn’t affect the outboard.

 

[fxnytro17]

Just an update. I finally got to look at it yesterday. Turned out to be not so bad. I haven’t had a run yet but power in back to the engine. I replaced the 50 a breaker with an inline breaker ($6) and also new lugs on the wire. This feeds a switch panel by the helm which has inline fuses so all should be good. The engine problem was a bad ground, I soldered on a new ground lug to the battery side and way to go.

 

[gm280]

So many ignore "Ground/return" wires thinking only about power lines. But every circuit has to have a ground/return as well to complete the circuit for it to work. Glad you got it somewhat working again...