Re: Continuous Trailer Trouble...
I apologize if you felt I was being sarcastic. I wish I lived closer as I'd gladly take care of the elctrical problem pro bono. <br />It sounds like what you need to do is some diagnosis. Start from one end and work down the line until you find the problem. If you have installed the taillight convertor according to the instructions, make sure all the functions coming out of the convertor work, BEFORE the convertor wires are connected to the round 6 connector. It would be easiest with a 12V test light. Since all the circuit is normally driving is a light bulb you should be ok.<br />Make sure the turn/brake wires light/flash the test light (TL from now on.) Make sure the tail light wire lights the TL. Best way to test all the functions is to use the ground for the convertor or the round 6. If you don't get the TL to light, check the ground. <br />If the convertor checks out, verify that you are connecting the convertor wires to the proper terminals in the round 6. Make sure you aren't reading the schematic backwards, as sometimes the picture is from the flap side, not from the wire side. After you verify and connect the round 6 to the convertor, test the functions at the round 6 flap side. And make sure to test all pins each time you test a function to make sure only one pin is responding, and that you don't have a short circuit. And every function, one at a time until you find your problem.<br />If these all check out ok, check your round 6 - flat 4 adapter. If it is wired properly, or not shorted, the exposed male pin is your ground. beside the ground is your taillight (normally brown wire), next is your LT/Brake (usually yellow) and finally is your RT/Brake (usually green). If this all works as intended, then the problem is in your trailer.<br />To test the trailer, I read in one post a good idea. I use my PowerProbe tester. However, since you probably don't have this $100 circuit tester, use a battery charger. just make sure not to short the clamps together. You'll know how to jumper them, I'm sure. Just connect the NEG clamp to the ground wire on the TRAILER connector, this will be the insulated female terminal. Next jumper the POS clamp to each of the male pins one at a time and verify the functions.<br />With your wiring problem burning up your brake light switch I suspect a shorted circuit. I'm surprised that the fuse isn't blowing first though. If following this long post doesn't get you fixed, post back with very specific results and we/I will try to help you from there.<br /><br />Good luck. Remember, if it has t*ts, tires or a prop you're gonna have trouble with it.
