I assumed it has two 30 amp inlets. You can use them separetly or both at the same time.
Did you check the other receptacle on on the boat? Does buss 1 hazard light up? It seemed to me that you had checked buss 1 already.
Like I said, it would appear the problem is with the panel, IF buss 1 does not light up.
Regardless, there are some pretty straightforward things to check if you do not have 110 V at the boat, even if plugging into house current.
Typical colors:
House current
Black=Hot
White=Neutral
Green=Ground
Boat current
White=HOT
Green=Neutral
Black=Ground
1. Corrosion at the terminals behind your panel.
2. Extension cord from house is too long and cannot support the drain. This cord needs to be robust and short as possible.
3. Your house current breaker is probably only 15 or 20 amps
4. With a multimeter, check for 110 at the panel when it is plugged up.
5. Depending on your panel, the reverse polarity light is merely a light that will go off with very little variation in current. Some systems will disable the current if the hazard light comes on.
6. Make sure all breakers are in the off position when checking for current at the panel.
7. There is virtually no chance of electrifying the water around your boat enough to hurt anyone. Some improperly wired boats may increase the decay of your anodes which are attached to your outdrives.
8. The biggest danger from reverse polarity is heat. The connections may heat to the point of melting wires and starting a fire.
9. Improper reverse polarity is, in actuality, extremely rare nowadays.
10. This site will show you a basic panel wiring. I have one similar to this in my boat that I installed. Mine is bigger, but not as big as yours. You need to pay attention to the wiring colors coming into the boat in the upper right picture toward to the bottom of the article.
https://shop.pkys.com/How-to-install-a-simple-shore-power-system-on-a-small-boat_b_86.html
