Complete rebuild roadblock.

[Leedanger]

So I bought this boat with a cracked block and cracked heads. The cracked block is 5.7L Merc 0K001527. I had another 350 longblock sitting here so I took it to the machine shop, had it bored .060, grind and balanced the crank, new cam bearings, new main bearings, new rod bearings, new .060 rings, new .060 over pistons, and new brass freeze plugs. This longblock I had is about 10-12 years older than the cracked one. I switched the intake manifolds to one with the correct angle holes for the older style heads and then put a model 1409 edelbrock carb on it along with the necessary quadrajet to square bore adapter plate. Lastly I changed the oil pan, flywheel, coupler, and starter to match the two piece rear main seal vs the prior one piece that was on the cracked one. All of the other external were transfered over such as the thunderbolt V dist, oil sensor, alt, wiring harness, and exhaust manifolds.

Well the darn thing wont start. It wanted to very briefly but I didn't let it because I noticed a small fuel leak in the connection coming up from the mechanical fuel pump. Fixed the issue and now it won't even pop a little. It kind of seems like this carb is drowning it out. I did btw place the distributor in base timing mode by connecting the pur/wh wire toa good ground. I'm starting to get really nervous thinking that for some reason this whole set up is not gonna work now that I have almost 2k into it.

Please help if you can.

Thanks.

 

[Leedanger]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I just did a fuel pressure test. I'm getting 0.6 CF/KG or 9 PSIG during cranking.

 

[Don S]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

Did you have it at #1 TDC on the COMPRESSION Stroke when you installed the distributor and set the valve? Did you over tighten the valves by checking pushrod lash more than once when finding zero lash?

 

[Leedanger]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

Did you over tighten the valves by checking pushrod lash more than once when finding zero lash?

I didn't check it more than once,but I am curious as to what exactly you mean by checking more than once. Are you saying lifters can't be reused? To verify my knowledge of valve lashing this is how I do it. I had a friend stick their finger in the hole while I watched the valves on #1. When my friend felt air push I watched to see if either valve moved as I continued to rotate it to TDC. When both events were successful, air push and no valve movement while rotating to zero, I then went ahead a tightened exhaust 1,3,4,8 and intake 1,2,5,7. I would tightened down the nut while spinning the push rod with my fingers, when I couldn't spin the rod I'd tighten them another half turn and thats it. I then rotated the harmonic balancer with a 5/8 ratchet 360 degrees and repeat the process with the remaining valves. Hopefully that's the right way to do it, I've been doing it like this for some time now.

As for the fuel pressure issue I just installed a fuel pressure regulator and set it to 5 psi and once again I am back to almost starting. She sputters but just doesn't want to stay running past anything more than that. I noticed that my oil pressure gauge isn't working properly, I'm wondering if this could be a sign. I unplugged the hole just above the oil filter and installed the oil pressure switch there like it was on the previous block. To verify I was in an oil galley I just pulled it back out and sure enough a bunch of oil came out so I think I am good there....must be the gauge or the switch itself I'd assume. It still seems like a fuel issue to me but I suppose I should check the compression again and maybe re-stab the distributer just to check for human error again.

Thanks for the help Don this is starting to get the best of me here.

 

[Leedanger]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I realized just now I forgot to replace my exhaust shutters I know are bad. That wouldn't prevent it from starting on the trailer at all though right? I have the center riser exhaust manifolds...will these work http://www.iboats.com/Exhaust-Water-Shutter-Sierra/dm/*******.347890022--session_id.969096774--view_id.172505

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

take the dist cap off and make sure the dist is turning.
engine compression test a quick way to make sure valve lash set well enough to run.

I always use compression test to verify/set valves on boats after the static setting. I use a starter switch. Tighten each valve until compression drops. Loosen until rocker clears. Split the difference. Takes 10 minutes and you see the validity on the comp gauge.

 

[Bamaman1]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

Sounds as if you were doing everything right when rebuilding the motor. What's nice is that you don't have to have an expensive marine mechanic and dealership to find your problem. Easiest way would be find a good auto mechanic to come over and get it running. Just make sure you have a water cuff on the outdrive.

You did install the outdrive with the alignment tool before tightening down all the front motor mounts didn't you? (You'd be surprised how many mechanics don't understand motor/outdrive alignment.)

I also assume you degree'd the camshaft when it was installed. If not, you'll need to do that.

Good luck!

 

[Leedanger]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I got it to fire today That brand new edelbrock was appartetly damaged during shipping or sat for a real long time on the shelf cause it was flooding the right side. Adjusted the rod and she fired right up. I have a very small tick, haven't really pinpointed where exactly it is coming from though and also my oil pressure gauge is still not working.

You did install the outdrive with the alignment tool before tightening down all the front motor mounts didn't you? (You'd be surprised how many mechanics don't understand motor/outdrive alignment.)

I also assume you degree'd the camshaft when it was installed. If not, you'll need to do that.

Good luck!

I didn't degree the cam, is that just to match the harmonic balancer with true tdc? And yes I certainly have it on the muffs and aligned the outdrive...but thanks for asking.

 

[Pete104]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I'm more concerned about your "oil pressure gauge"!

You've cranking this thing without oil pressure! Did you prime the oil system?

 

[Don S]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I have no idea why you would need to degree the cam, if you lined the timing marks up, you should be good to go. Forget the auto mechanic too. They normally cause more problems on MARINE engines than they cure.

As far as oil pressure. Do yourself a favor, get a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and an adapter for a short grease gun hose to adapt the hose to the gauge, and use it to check oil pressure. I do this with every new engine, plus using an oil pump priming tool to verify oil pressure and prime the system, long before I ever crank the engine over with the starter. Then you have no more guessing.

I made a priming tool out of an old distributor. Just take the gear off or machine the teeth of the gear so the cam doesn't hit it, take the guts out of the top and hook a drill to it.

 

[Pete104]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I'll bet the above suggestions were made by the machine shop.
But was taken by the OP as; yea, OK, whatever!

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

Glad the o/p got it figured out.

FIX THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE!

Some odd advice in here...
Setting the valves with a compression gauge? Never heard that one.
Degree the cam? In a high performance engine yes, in 99.9% of cases not necessary.

 

[Leedanger]

Re: Complete rebuild roadblock.

I have no idea why you would need to degree the cam, if you lined the timing marks up, you should be good to go. Forget the auto mechanic too. They normally cause more problems on MARINE engines than they cure.

As far as oil pressure. Do yourself a favor, get a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and an adapter for a short grease gun hose to adapt the hose to the gauge, and use it to check oil pressure. I do this with every new engine, plus using an oil pump priming tool to verify oil pressure and prime the system, long before I ever crank the engine over with the starter. Then you have no more guessing.

I made a priming tool out of an old distributor. Just take the gear off or machine the teeth of the gear so the cam doesn't hit it, take the guts out of the top and hook a drill to it.

I'm gonna do just that....have an old dist sitting right here on my shelf.

I did prime the system before I ever tried to start it with the starter....but I like your method much better. The issue appears to be one simply with the sender itself or the wire.

The only other issue I am having is getting a good seal on the thermostat housing to the manifold. The first gasket I think I rushed and didn't get a good seal. Then I tried some RTV but didn't let it sit long enough so I cleaned it up really well, re-stuck it and this time I'm gonna wait until tomorrow before I test it out. Other than that I think I'm up and running so thanks to all for the help.