compare water depth needed on 2000 Starcraft 2015 deck boat to 1995 Bayliner 1850 LS

[zabitac]

I've owned a 1995 Bayliner 1850LS bowrider with 4.3 Mercruiser for 16 years. I'm considering buying a 2000 Starcraft Aurora 2015 deck boat with a 5.0 Mercruiser. I would like to know if the Starcraft boat requires a greater water depth for travel than the Bayliner. It appears that the dry gross weight is about 400 lbs more on the Starcraft. It's a little longer & about 16 inches wider. Do deck boats ride a little higher than bowriders?
Thanks for your help.

 

[JoLin]

I don't think anyone will know this. The measurement you're looking for is called 'draft' - distance from the waterline to bottom of the outdrive's skeg. If you have access to the Starcraft, measure it yourself or ask the seller to do so. I seriously doubt there'll be a significant difference between the two. I am curious, though- why do you need to know?

My .02

 

[spoilsofwar]

Here is the year 2000 Starcraft brochure. The Aurora's are on page 45.
http://www.starcraftmarine.com/sites...ft-Catalog.pdf

Unfortunately, draft is not a listed specification in the catalog. There are both outboard and I/O models shown, which makes a difference in how skinny of water you'll be able to effectively run and/or dock in.

You could try contacting Starcraft and ask for the draft spec for the specific model you have under consideration. Ultimately though, I agree with JoLin; there is likely to be very little draft requirement difference between your Bayliner and the Starcraft.

Edit: sorry, I reread and see now that the Starcraft has an I/O mercruiser.

 

[JoLin]

I looked up the brochure, too. In this case, the OP states that both boats are Merc I/O's.

 

[zabitac]

I live on a fairly shallow lake and I was looking for a larger boat that would I be able to use in the same fashion without greatly increasing the likelihood of scrubbing it, I'm not ready to go to a pontoon just yet.
I don't have access to measuring the Starcraft just yet. I'm considering buying it though. The price is at the top at $12,000, but the hours are around 200.

By the way, I appreciate the responses.

 

[JoLin]

We're always happy to help spend other people's money :joyous:. Make a phone call and ask the seller to do it for you. Can't imagine he wouldn't do that for a prospective buyer. You'll actually want 2 measurements- drive all the way down and drive trimmed up to the highest 'running' position- not the trailering position. Then you can compare that to your own boat. If the diff is big (doubt it), then you just saved both of you some otherwise wasted time.

BTW, the boat is old enough and expensive enough to justify a professional survey of the hull and mechanicals. The asking price seems reasonable if the boat's in very good condition, but I wouldn't take the plunge on it without a survey. Just my opinion

 

[zabitac]

Thanks for the advice. I contacted a boat repair shop in the seller's area and they are supposed to inspect the boat this week. If it checks out, I'll probably have them service the hubs and tires for the 5 hour drive home. The repairman is to check compression and test drive the boat also in addition to attempting to verify that the 200 hours on the meter is accurate. Thanks again.

 

[JoLin]

Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Maclin]

FWIW, with drives full up my 22 foot Cuddy with 5.7 Volvo had a shallower draft than my brother's 16 foot Sidewinder closed bow ski boat with 3.0 Mercruiser. More hull to displace the water. I bet the boats you want to compare are about the same.

 

[tlombard]

With only a 400 pound weight difference and the extra hull to displace that weight, I agree with Maclin that the difference in draft should be pretty much negligible.

 

[zabitac]

I purchased the 2000 Starcraft Aurora 2015 this weekend and am pleased with it so far. The water depth needed is pretty much the same as what many of you thought. It seems to travel in about the same depth as my Bayliner 1850 LS does. The boat seems to be better constructed than the Bayliner in some ways, such as the seat construction. I don't see any wood on the seats that will eventually rot and have to be replaced. The seats can be removed easily for when I do need to have them recovered. The boat has ample power and planes pretty quickly. My goal was to use it for water sports like I have the Bayliner for several years, but also have enough seating room for lake rides with family and friends.
I appreciate the input from everyone.

 

[mjf55]

Excellent, I am glad you are happy with your purchase. Enjoy

 

[frantically relaxing]

The lake I boat on is shallow-- REAL shallow right now actually, our harbor depth is only 38" to the mud, and the main lake is 4 to 5' ... Full pool is about double...

And people ask me all the time "how you can use that houseboat on this shallow lake?" They look funny when I tell them I only need 13-1/2" of water to float it--drives up of course--

Boat weight is just a number. The Skipperliner weighs 36,000 pounds, but it's like a great big lilly pad. The hull is dead flat at the stern, and only draws 11" back there. I can park it in 2-1/2 feet of water with the drives down and still fit my feet under the skegs.

I figured the Regal would sit a lot deeper in the water than I'm used to, but at rest, the tops of the VP's are about 3/4" above water, not much different than the Chap or the little Bayliner 175.