Cold start issue 89 force 125 hp

[puffitu]

Hello
im having cold start no start issues. It’ll fire right up and stay running using a bit of starter fluid;shut it down and fire right back up no problem fret that. But the very next day it won’t start unless I use a little starting fluid. What could it be.?? I’ve went through everything but the reeds. It’s got good comp And spark all around. Don’t tell me reeds cause I’ll lol...

 

[Jiggz]

Make sure you choke it accordingly when cold starting. Also, remove the cover and see the position of the choke butterflies when engaged, are they 1/2~ 3/4 way closed? Are they staying close when you engage the starter?

Usually, with the throttle control on high idle position and choke working properly, the engine will either "cough" or start right off the bat. If it only coughs, then re-start again without choking as you can easily flood the carbs.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks Jiggz

gutt tells me the choke is not working correctly; I have another so I can swap out.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Does the choke move at all?
It might need to be moved up or down to completely close the choke.
Sometimes they get gummed up and won't move.
WD or carb cleaner on the slide, activate and respray.

Most time the need of SF indicates a problem with compression, redo the test?

If the floats aren't set right it can make it hard to start too.

 

[racerone]

Install an electric primer as used on Johnson / Evinrude since about 1980 models.-------A very good / reliable unit.-----That will end your starting issues.

 

[puffitu]

Thank you all.
comp numbers come in at right around 117 in all cylinders but the choke does move but sluggish compared to my other one so I’m going to do a switch and see if that helps. If that doesn’t work I’m thinking about swapping carbs with the ones I kept from my previous engine. This way the reeds can get an inspection...have an extra set of those too hehe

 

[puffitu]

The electric primer does sound interesting

 

[racerone]

The electric primer came out in about 1980 and installed up to about 2005 on anything from 9.9 HP to 300 HP.----A proven good unit that will end " hard to start " conditions related to old time CHOKE plates.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks racerone definitely a thought

 

[puffitu]

So I swapped out choke solenoids( I have 3 spare)and no change. I checked the green wire(with a tester) from back of switch to the engine terminal and solenoid and it checked out fine with no breaks within. I then alligator clipped the green wire on selonoid and ground as trying to use the choke-registered 8.34 volts.The other day I did notice the choke sluggishly working as if a bad connection- So long story short; the electric choke is not being activated with key switch which is telling me to replace it. It is the original I believe

 

[Jiggz]

I had the same problem with my 89-125HP. And the remedy I came up with is using a 30 amp relay (the same relay used on the T&T) that directly connects the choke solenoid to the starter solenoid large red cable. And using the green wire as the control wire for the relay. Never had the same problem ever since.

 

[puffitu]

Hey Jiggz
i do have extra t&t relays so maybe I will try your suggestion after I spray the inside of the ign switch and see if that works with some electronic cleaner.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Racerone, why not tell him how to hook up the OMC primer?
Not gonna be an easy job??

WD in the key switch, activate the choke, repeat.
Test light at the switch, then at the choke solenoid.
Don't worry about voltage drop, normal.

The Forces did install a primer system on the later years and L drive and jetski models and the 150.

You can change to the primer(I never saw the benefit) you'll need the carbs and the primer.
If the primer's set right you won't need the relays, just more stuff to go bad.

I've never seen a choke solenoid .go bad??

 

[racerone]

It is so simple / easy that no I am not going to explain how to do that.----Up to someone else to look at how the primer works / does it's job.----Then hook it up to any motor you like.-----Nothing to it.----Sorry to be so blunt.----No coins in it for me !!

 

[puffitu]

So without reinventing the wheel here; I got a few minutes to mess with the choke issue. Sprayed the ign switch and not much change except that when depressing the key to activate the choke; the choke only slightly tries to move-so getting power but seems like a bad connection somewhere. Crazy because I’ve ran out of things to check here

 

[jerryjerry05]

That sounds like the slide is binding or the solenoids not in the clamp right??

There's no coins in none of this.
Myself I'd like to know how to do it?

 

[The Force power]

So without reinventing the wheel here; I got a few minutes to mess with the choke issue. Sprayed the ign switch and not much change except that when depressing the key to activate the choke; the choke only slightly tries to move-so getting power but seems like a bad connection somewhere. Crazy because I’ve ran out of things to check here

Have you tried to energize the solenoid with a jumper-wire? and have the rod connected to the plunger disconnected off the shutter-mechanism?
Since you have a few of them, check the ohm reading on a few to see if they're different (solenoids do burn-out/short)
add an extra ground to the solenoid to see if maybe the clamp is not providing a proper ground

 

[puffitu]

What’s the right position for the choke in the clamp; manual is vague explaining this...?

 

[puffitu]

Mfbwy...you’ve touched upon something I’ve already contemplated. I’m planning to investigate whether or not all my ground connections are suffice. Thank you though

 

[The Force power]

What’s the right position for the choke in the clamp; manual is vague explaining this...?

With the stud for the wire hook-up in the notched-out section in the block & as far down that the majority of the plunger sticks out when not energized