I have a 90 Hp Evinrude Starflight 90 S .... Model # 90483. From what I I've found, it's a 1964. I last used it 10 years ago. I put it on my old 18 foot 1958 Performer. It ran pretty good, but from what I remember I never did get it finely tuned. It hasn't been started in all this time. I have to get rid of the boat (city thing about boats in driveways) and am going to junk it. I can't bring myself to do the same with the motor. I shot a little oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and cranked it over with the compression gage to each cylinder in turn. They are all pretty much around 100 lbs. I managed to get it to start with the garden hose hooked up to it. I had no spark to the plugs at first, but cleaned and gapped the points (.020 is that correct?) and got fire. It runs but won't idle well. I have fiddled with the carb needle valves and not having much luck. I probably have fuel issues and should do the necessary checks on that but am also wondering about the coil condition.
From what I gather, it has the resister in the wire from the controls and start switch. I did a continuity check from the switch to the positive wire on the coil. From looking at my notes, written in the dark with cold wet feet, I think I got .010 ohms from the switch to the coil in run. The coil, with wires unhooked, reads .002 between positive and negative terminals. I get zero or infinity if I connect either negative or positive of the coil to the high tension output wire that goes to the distributor cap. I checked the wire from coil to cap and, as expected, get a zero reading for resistance.
Is the coil supposed to have some sort of continuity reading from either of the two terminals to the high output wire? I don't want to put a lot of bucks into a motor that I'm just going to sell, but would like to have it running fairly well. If the coil is bad, can I just use something like an old Volkswagen coil? I guess it would have to be the type that doesn't have a built-in resistor, eh?
I have to get rid of the boat by the 15th of June and doubt if I'll get the motor all squared away by then. That means I'll have to make some sort of stand for it. I think I read somewhere that it weighs about 250 lbs. Does anybody have any ideas on making one or a link to one?
Also, if I get it all premo, what is a ballpark figure for selling it? I'm in the So. California area.
Great web site and thanks in advance for any and all replies.
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From what I gather, it has the resister in the wire from the controls and start switch. I did a continuity check from the switch to the positive wire on the coil. From looking at my notes, written in the dark with cold wet feet, I think I got .010 ohms from the switch to the coil in run. The coil, with wires unhooked, reads .002 between positive and negative terminals. I get zero or infinity if I connect either negative or positive of the coil to the high tension output wire that goes to the distributor cap. I checked the wire from coil to cap and, as expected, get a zero reading for resistance.
Is the coil supposed to have some sort of continuity reading from either of the two terminals to the high output wire? I don't want to put a lot of bucks into a motor that I'm just going to sell, but would like to have it running fairly well. If the coil is bad, can I just use something like an old Volkswagen coil? I guess it would have to be the type that doesn't have a built-in resistor, eh?
I have to get rid of the boat by the 15th of June and doubt if I'll get the motor all squared away by then. That means I'll have to make some sort of stand for it. I think I read somewhere that it weighs about 250 lbs. Does anybody have any ideas on making one or a link to one?
Also, if I get it all premo, what is a ballpark figure for selling it? I'm in the So. California area.
Great web site and thanks in advance for any and all replies.
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