clutch dog and forward gear question

[CatfishJim]

I have a 1987 johnson 120hp that has been jumping out of gear feels like you hit something at high speed. i adjusted the control cables as far as they could go went for another test run just when i thought that that had done the trick it jumped again and it wasnt to good had to limp home. i have never tore down a lower unit although i am mechanically inclided i feel that the clutch dog and forwad gears are my problems metal flakes in oil could someone please walk me through the proceedure and any important steps to take along the way. <br /><br />------------------<br />Everyday a catfish is just around the way.<br />Maybe today a big one<br />will take my worm away

 

[CatfishJim]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

anyone?

 

[Fouled Plug]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

Step one would be to get a munual. The process is pretty straight forward, but it's nice to have a reference and those step-by-step instructions specific to your model motor. I'd guess about $300 for a forward gear/pinion gear/clutch dog, plus gaskets and lube. Might want to get the book and drop skeg to see just what is going on in there before you proceed. If there's bad bearings, etc. it can get expen$ive in a hurry.

 

[Dunk]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

Before you get the wrenches out make sure you are not just dealing with spun hub on the prop. Lots of times they'll only let loose at higher rpms and then do it suddenly. Usually when a dog is bad you'll hear it clicking/knocking while you are trying to get it into gear. You'd also be hearing the same thing after she jumped out of gear. Pull the prop and look at the forward end of the hub. If you've spun her a few times you'll probably see shreaded rubber hanging out of the seam where the hub seats into the prop. Even if you don't I'd still have the prop checked before you tear into the gearcase, especially if you don't hear the noises I mentioned above.<br /><br /> If you need to go into the gearcase the first you should have is a manual. The first thing the manual will tell is the special tools you'll need. Like 15" set of snap ring pliers to get the rear seal plate out of the hub. After that you'll need a long thin wrench to get on the pinion gear nut. Once that is loose you get to the gears. Chances are if the dog is chewed down you can replace it, about 125. If the dog seats on the forward gear aren't to bad you can turn it around and use it in the opposite direction. Both forward and reverse are the same gears. The new dog will probably never have problem grabing the now reverse gear that used to be the forward gear.

 

[steury]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

Dunk,<br />swapping reverse and forward common. Is it plausible with '78 Evinrude 175hp. I've got the same problem. <br /><br />Catfish,<br />Get those snapring pliars, they can save a-lot of hassel.<br /><br />steury

 

[Dunk]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

Steury, yes it's common thing to do. With the fresh teeth(so to speak) on the new dog plus you can clean up the mating surface on the old gear with a grinder, they usually grab fine for reverse operation. Of course it all depends how chewed up they are. If both gears are looking ugly them replace them. The price will stand your hair on end. The gears are the same, they both run on the same pinion gear so they have to be.<br /><br /> A clutch dog should last forever. The biggest destroyer of dogs is the bad habit of people easing outboards into gear. All outboards should be shifted quickly into gear with positive non stopping motion. Doing this will get to be a good habit, just like easing them into gear is a bad habit.

 

[steury]

Re: clutch dog and forward gear question

Quick thought.<br />I noticed that the forward gear has six teeth for the clutch to grab. The reverse only has three. Is this a problem since it will still mesh.<br /><br />Also, do you think new bearings are in order after chewing up both forward and reverse with the clutch?<br /><br />Steury