Cleaning/polishing chrome plated bronze?

[tank1949]

There are plenty of articles on cleaning chrome plated copper. Not much on chrome plated bronze. I just acquired some Lee Jr. outrigger wishbones but they need some cleaning. They appear to be chrome plated bronze. Not 100% stainless steel... They have a very slight "green" tint and you can feel the oxydation. I assume the copper is coming out of the bronze after years of salt water exposure. I thought about applying some 409 cleaner, scrubbing, followed by 0000 steel wool to remove any fine coper contaminates. Then, after drying, I would spray a couple coats of clear automotive grade acrylic on them. They are not bad enough to re-chrome plate, yet. Any suggestions?

 

[dingbat]

Put them in a bath of white vinegar with a teaspoon or so of baking soda. Shouldn’t take more than a couple of minutes to knock the green back.

If you leave it too long it will start to leach the tin from the bronze. Works great. Just have to watch it.

 

[tank1949]

Put them in a bath of white vinegar with a teaspoon or so of baking soda. Shouldn’t take more than a couple of minutes to knock the green back.

If you leave it too long it will start to leach the tin from the bronze. Works great. Just have to watch it.

I don't know If I have a bath tub large enough to hold and cover both wishbones. I suspect that I could use sponge, wait and then re-sponge to get the same effect. I also suspect that I would need to have paint station ready to go in order to coat with acrylic asap after rinsing and drying. THX!

 

[dingbat]

I don't know If I have a bath tub large enough to hold and cover both wishbones. I suspect that I could use sponge, wait and then re-sponge to get the same effect. I also suspect that I would need to have paint station ready to go in order to coat with acrylic asap after rinsing and drying. THX!

Take them apart and put in a bucket. Flip longer parts end for end for cleaning

A spray type acrylic isn't going to last a season given the wear and tear and UV exposure.

I use this method to clean "salt pox" off customer's chrome plated reel parts on a regular basis. Using (Collinite) insulator wax on a regular basis will get you thru a couple of seasons.

Personally, I'd recommend using something like Woody Wax Metal Sealer. I've used it successfully for a number of years to protect my hardtop supports and rocket launchers.

 

[tank1949]

Take them apart and put in a bucket. Flip longer parts end for end for cleaning

A spray type acrylic isn't going to last a season given the wear and tear and UV exposure.

I use this method to clean "salt pox" off customer's chrome plated reel parts on a regular basis. Using (Collinite) insulator wax on a regular basis will get you thru a couple of seasons.

Personally, I'd recommend using something like Woody Wax Metal Sealer. I've used it successfully for a number of years to protect my hardtop supports and rocket launchers.

Thanks...I'll try Woody Wax Metal sealer. Many boaters forget to bond wishbones. I have even retrofitted ss rails. However, I have had tremendous results using automotive clear acrylic (with hardener). The Home Deport spray can stuff is crap. Thanks for advice!

 

[dingbat]

Many boaters forget to bond wishbones.

Why would you want to bond something that is electrically isolated?

Nothing good can come from introducing a potential to an isolated object.

 

[tank1949]

Why would you want to bond something that is electrically isolated?

Nothing good can come from introducing a potential to an isolated object.

I was always taught to bond all metals, including 18' outrigger poles that may act as lighting rods. In addition, I'd rather minimize galvanic action to direct any that might build up on wishbones to transfer to zincs.

 

[dingbat]

I was always taught to bond all metals, including 18' outrigger poles that may act as lighting rods. In addition, I'd rather minimize galvanic action to direct any that might build up on wishbones to transfer to zincs.

You would need 2 Awg wire and 1 square foot of grounding plate to have any chance of dissipating a lightening strike.

Lightening dissipation is separate system from bonding system

“Do not bond any thru-hulls or other immersed metal that can be electrically isolated. Specifically, keep your metal keel/ballast, your metal rudder shaft, your engine/prop, and all thru-hulls electrically isolated, from each other, and from the engine.

It's worth understanding the reason. In an increasing number of marinas, there are substantial DC electric currents running through the water. If your bits of immersed metal are bonded, the electric current will take the lower resistance path offered by your boat in preference to the water near your boat, and the current will flow into one of your bits of metal, through your bonding wires, and then out another bit of metal. The anodic bit of metal or thru-hull that has the misfortune to be on the "out current" side of the current running through your bonding system will also become "out metal" and will disappear, sometimes rapidly.

Your zinc is only intended to protect against the modest galvanic potentials and therefore currents that are caused by the dissimilar metals that are immersed and electrically connected together on your own boat. Your zinc is incapable of supplying enough galvanic potential to protect against substantial DC currents that may be flowing in the water. These DC currents in the water will cause electrolytic corrosion to your bonded thru-hulls or metal parts.”

 

[tank1949]

You would need 2 Awg wire and 1 square foot of grounding plate to have any chance of dissipating a lightening strike.

Lightening dissipation is separate system from bonding system

“Do not bond any thru-hulls or other immersed metal that can be electrically isolated. Specifically, keep your metal keel/ballast, your metal rudder shaft, your engine/prop, and all thru-hulls electrically isolated, from each other, and from the engine.

It's worth understanding the reason. In an increasing number of marinas, there are substantial DC electric currents running through the water. If your bits of immersed metal are bonded, the electric current will take the lower resistance path offered by your boat in preference to the water near your boat, and the current will flow into one of your bits of metal, through your bonding wires, and then out another bit of metal. The anodic bit of metal or thru-hull that has the misfortune to be on the "out current" side of the current running through your bonding system will also become "out metal" and will disappear, sometimes rapidly.

Your zinc is only intended to protect against the modest galvanic potentials and therefore currents that are caused by the dissimilar metals that are immersed and electrically connected together on your own boat. Your zinc is incapable of supplying enough galvanic potential to protect against substantial DC currents that may be flowing in the water. These DC currents in the water will cause electrolytic corrosion to your bonded thru-hulls or metal parts.”

I have the wire and ODs are way more then 2' in size . All my MC ODs have zincs for a reason. In fact, excessive numbers of anodes in the system. My heat exchangers and trim rams have them too. They are all bonded or connected via 2 gauge green wire and negative side of batteries. I have a bus bar that green wires all connect and a large (about) 8 gauge black wire goes from bus and connects to an engine lug. Another engine black wire connects to negative of each battery. A green wire also goes from each gas tank to bus (mentioned). My windshield's anodized aluminum frame and my soft top aluminum frame both are bonded with green wires. My ss rail is bonded. My Gas fillers are both bonded with green wires.

That's the way MC and Sea Ray has the wires connected. Thx!​