Classic 50....switchbox or stator

kapco

Cadet
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
17
Trouble shooting an 89 classic 50 tiller with electric start. I was using the boat and ran fine was running the motor close to WOT coming back from fishing. Docked the boat. ABout 4 hours later went to head out and motor started up but wouldn't accelerated. Felt like it was loaded down. Ran very boggish . I shut the motor down...inspected the obvious things like gas connections, tank vent open etc. Started it up and still weak power and running rough. Won't idle and coughs and puffs. Now hard to start. Used the trolling motor to get back to the launch. Took the boat home and here is my diagnoses so far.
Found a few wires suspect coming from the trigger. Replaced them and check resistance. Trigger is within spec. Removed stator and wires seemed OK. Resistance checks of high and low sped windings and charge coils all within spec. No signs of cracking or melting of anything on the stator around the windings. Put everything back together hoping perhaps would fire....puffs and coughs but won't catch. Fuel is good. Checked compression all at about 135psi.
Got a timing light to check switch box by marking flywheel at each cylinders TDC position hoping I could get it to run enough to see if it was firing the plugs at the right time....couldn't get it running long enough to check properly.
What next? I didn't check for 7/16 spark be cause figured if stator homed out should be OK? I am thinking it's not a ground issue since it does fire/caugh/puff. Thoughts?
I am leaning towards switchbox but could the stator still be the issue? When I did get it running for a few seconds on multiple occasions it appeared that it wasn't firing the cylinders at TDC on any of the cylinders. But I wasn't sure as I am unsure the timing light was even pulsing...almost seemed like it was on steady but dim.
 
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kapco

Cadet
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
17
Update......looks like I had 2 issues going on.
Used a spark gap checker on each cylinder set to about 7/16" gap.....No spark on any cylinder with the black/yellow kill wire removed from the switchbox. Got a known working one from a used parts guy close to my place. Swapped the switchbox out an voila.....big sparks at 7/16".
Hook everything back up.....still caughing trying to start.
Ok...now I'm thinking carbs since got spark...now fuel???..so first thing I check on with the carbs is to open the float bowl screw/drain on the bottom of the top carb(because it's easy access) and guess what....not a drop of gas comes out.
Now I'm suspecting plugged carb or fuel pump.
I disconnect the hose after the filter coming out of the fuel pump to test. Disconected before the carb after the filter to make sure it wasnt plugged and crank the motor....she seems to be pumping good.
Returning focus to carbs I removed them and found fuel in the lower carbs bowl but not the upper. Seems like the float needle was stuck closed on the top carb. Othrwise they were both very clean on the inside.
So...I'll be reinstalling today and find out where things are at.
BTW....for anyone wanting to remove the lower carb make sure your in a calm relaxed mood. The access to the nut on the starter motor side is near impossible to get more then a few degrees swing of a spanner because of the tight space between the carb body and the lower starter motor bracket that you can't remove. Takes a while to remove.
 

kapco

Cadet
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
17
Ok. Update to the update....now I'm searching for help. Got good compression, fresh fuel, carbs working properly. Won't run right....especially at lower rpm. Picked up a used switchpack (from a running motot....apparently) and installed. I have multiple firing or misfires. I have uploaded a video on youtube of me using a timing light on #1 cylinder and i marked the flywheel at TDC for each pistion. The timming light is firing more then it should as i see bith #1 and #4 showing up at the timing mark when connected to the #1 sparkplug for induction trugget.
Printed off the CDI troubleshooting guide for 4cyl mercs. Stator tests good for ohms and dva. Actually have the black stator but the red/red white is closer to 270v then 100v as per the sheet.
Checked the trigger and all leads ohm out within spec and all have 15 to 20v minimum on trigger output dva. Checked the output voltages in the switch pack and all within DVA spec (over 150v and up depending on rpm)
Where do I look now? Any help from some experts that can guide me on this one? I'm stumped. I can only assume my "good used" pack is no good.
 

Mercurylips

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
189
BTW....for anyone wanting to remove the lower carb make sure your in a calm relaxed mood. The access to the nut on the starter motor side ........Ran into this problem also. Go purchase a single wrench that fits the nut on that carb, and grind away on the box end to reduce it's size. Works like a charm then. Also keep it somewhere where you can find it again. Don't ask me why.
 
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