Class IV or V???

[johndoe]

After some research, I have discovered there are two types of Class IV hitches... 5000 lb and 10000 lb capacity... this is very confusing... Why do they have classes with two largley varying capacities... ? I'm not talking about weight distributing hitches... just a normal frame mounted hitch.<br /><br />My Boat weighs is 7500 - 8000 lb.<br /><br />I have a 2005 Dodge Ram1500 Quad cab with factory tow package. Truck's max rating is 8600. Tow package hitch max is 5000 without the weight distributing bars... 10000 with..<br /><br />I have heard these are a pain. and I found a 10K non WD type for 250.<br /><br />Any advice? Any Hitch web sites that may be more informative.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Class IV or V???

A class IV hitch is typically rated 5000# when used as a dead weight hitch and can be as high as 10,000 when used as a weight distributing hitch. There is no difference in the platform (the receiver) bolted to the truck. The extra capacity occurs because you use a ball mount that accepts equalizer bars. This allows higher tongue weights and loads. Tongue weight is limited to about 500# on a dead weight class IV. It can be 750 - 1000# when used as weight distributing. In a nutshell, the hitches are the same. It's how you use them that determines their capacity.

 

[johndoe]

Re: Class IV or V???

at www.hitchcorner.com, you can enter your vehicle type... this model says it it rated at 10000. I am assuming it is not weight distributing based on the data below from the website..<br /><br />DT41929 <br />This is a Draw-Tite Class IV 2 Inch Receiver - 10000/12000 lbs<br /><br />This Hitch DOES Require Drilling<br /><br />This Hitch Has The Following Notes: If OEM Hitch Exists - This Goes Underneath It<br /><br />DT41929 - $ 266.00 <br /> <br /><br />Click for Instructions for DT41929

 

[SwampNut]

Re: Class IV or V???

I have a hitch from Valley Industries which carries a 10k dead weight rating and 12k weight distributing. It's solidly built, easy to install, and cost about $160 at a local 4x4 shop.<br /><br />Note that besides the hitch, your truck needs to be able to handle that weight back there. The 1500 is pretty soft and is going to handle poorly with that much on it. I used to have a 1500 and upgraded to a 2500. I'd say you need to look at suspension upgrades minimum.<br /><br />Oh, and there is no official "Class V" at all. And Class IV, as you found, is variable with WD/dead weight ratings all over the place. I asked the local guy for "a true class IV dead weight rated hitch" and he found it in a few minutes.

 

[johndoe]

Re: Class IV or V???

I plan on some suspension improvements... short distance towing only... no mountain passes.<br /><br />So far I found the airbags, as suggested by the local welding/hitch shop...<br /><br />What other improvements might help?

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Class IV or V???

Give these a look <br /><br />Class IV Hitch <br /><br />Class V Hitch

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Class IV or V???

You wouldn't need any suspension changes if you used the weight distributing ball mount and equalizers. The receiver platform you are looking at will work fine. The ball mount and bars will be less cost than making suspension changes. Plus the vehicle will handle better and you don't upset the ride qualities when the vehicle is unloaded. If you insist on dead-weight towing you definitely need some help in the suspension.

 

[johndoe]

Re: Class IV or V???

Weight Distributing is less costly than replacing or adding a dead weight hitch, and from what I read and what is said here, will provide a better quality ride.<br /><br />anyone out there using WD ? and is it a pain and how is the ride and is this truly a better way to go, short of trading in my truck.?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Class IV or V???

I towed a travel trailer for many years with a weight distributing system. It eliminates rear end sag and provides a smooth ride. If I currently needed to tow your load I would have one of two things: 1) weight distributing hitch or 2) at least a 2500 series or preferably 3500 series truck. If you estimate your boat weight at 7500 - 8000# it probably weighs considerably more since most people estimate light. Don't forget the amount of gear, fuel, water, etc. Then there is the weight of the trailer as well which probably goes in the neighborhood of 1500# by itself. Just curious -- what engine and rear axle ratio does your current truck have. If you have anything except the Cummins or Hemi and the axle ratio is less than 3.7:1 you really need a different tow vehicle. Both the diesel and Hemi will handle the load but the axle ratio is critical with the gas engine. It's not only the weight you need to tow -- you have a lot of boat sticking into the air-stream so you are also pulling a "barn door" through the air so-to- speak. Remember, you also need to stop so the trailer needs functioning brakes.

 

[johndoe]

Re: Class IV or V???

3.92 limited slip differential with 5.7 Hemi..<br /><br />the 7500# estimate is way over.. boat is 5400# without tralier, but with engine... so, 1500 for trailer and fuel and gear is not conservative...<br /><br />The trailer has electric brakes and I am adding contrller to truck.<br /><br />I want a 2500, but for now, its out of budget range...<br /><br />I want to make the 1500work for short term.<br /><br />I think WD is the way to go, coupled with electric Brakes, contrller, and short distance towing, I should be OK for a year or so.<br /><br />If not, I have AAA (RV) they will come and rescue me.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Class IV or V???

Power won't be a problem either way. Your gearing is good. Brake will help with stopping duties. That leaves the suspension and I guess you have investigated help for that so you should be ok -- at least for those short trips. For best handling you will need 700# plus of tongue load so make sure all the bolts are tight.