Chris Craft Bowrider or Crownline Bowrider - the choice is unclear...HELP!

Rookster

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Hi Everyone,

I was advised by forum members to go look at more used boats as part of my first-time-boater/buyer shopping experience, and now I?m here to report back! I?d love to hear from everyone. Below are my two options, both in similar cosmetic condition, seating configuration, accessories and are equally powered.

Here are my questions and concerns:

a) All else being equal, would one flooring/deck/stringer material be a clear winner over the other in terms of longevity and resistance to rot, strength and durability?
b) Anyone familiar with construction of these brands and models from back then?
c) CC is shorter and heavier; CL is lighter and longer.So, what makes a boat more sea-worthy?heavier weight or longer hull?
d) Any huge concerns or benefits to self-draining/self-bailing hull?
e) Just because a 17yr old wood floor isn?t perfectly flat in a couple areas, doesn?t mean there is rot below ? especially if no other evidence, right?

Here are the specs:

1997 Chris-Craft Concept 17
  1. 17ft long
  2. 2350lbs
  3. Volvo Penta
  4. 7-person weight capacity
  5. Fiberglass encased foam stringers
  6. Fiberglass deck/floor liner with snap-in carpets
  7. Self-bailing cockpit
  8. Trailer comes with surge brakes (would prefer electric due to smaller tow vehicle)
2000 Crownline 180 BR
  1. 18ft long
  2. 2200lbs
  3. Mercruiser Alpha
  4. 8-person weight capacity
  5. Fiberglass encased wood stringers
  6. Glued-on carpet on marine-grade plywood floor (100% perfectly solid, and about 95% perfectly flat after 17yrs).
  7. No self-bailing cockpit
  8. Trailer comes with no brakes (I?d install electric brakes)
Thoughts, comments or advice?anyone?
 

brian4321

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I have no experience or input on the stringers, but considering the condition is equal, I would lean more towards the newer, longer boat. Once again though it's all about how it was cared for. Take both for a test run, see how you like each one , and if buying privately try to "read" the seller. Does his house, truck, workshop, garage, or whatever look neat and well kept? You can learn a lot about a person by the way he keeps up his house, truck, and or personal belongings. Ask lots of questions and you'll soon kinda get a feel of how he takes care of his stuff. If he seems pushy to sell be suspicious. This also goes for dealers. Also, don't "fall in love" with a certain one before it completely checks out, or it'll be easier to dismiss the"little things" that are wrong with it. Good luck!
 

Maclin

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I like the snap in carpet.

Regarding this...:

"e) Just because a 17yr old wood floor isn?t perfectly flat in a couple areas, doesn?t mean there is rot below ? especially if no other evidence, right?"

That is pretty much EXACTLY what it means. Glued in carpet holds water. The snap-in carpet and self bailing work together to help last longer before rot can get a foothold.

What engines do these bad boys have?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Both boats are at end of their design life - so both will need something major. Which one is in better condition and has better maintenance record?
 

ezmobee

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I friggin' love my self bailing deck. I have a wash down pump and can just hose the dirt down the drains whenever I want.
 

Rookster

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I like the snap in carpet.

Regarding this...;e) Just because a 17yr old wood floor isn’t perfectly flat in a couple areas, doesn’t mean there is rot below – especially if no other evidence, right?"

That is pretty much EXACTLY what it means. Glued in carpet holds water. The snap-in carpet and self bailing work together to help last longer before rot can get a foothold.

Thanks - that's my single BIGGEST fear with this boat. But I'd love if others have an opinion on this. I got my head down under by the gas tank, into the ski locker, into the engine bay, tapped around with my hammer, and found zero soft spots. So, isn't there a chance that it's just plain old wood? My 15yr old hardwood floor inside my house isn't perfectly flat either, but it's like new otherwise. Upholstery is also in perfect shape, although there was mildew under the canvas. Any other thoughts on this one??
 

Rookster

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Both boats are at end of their design life - so both will need something major. Which one is in better condition and has better maintenance record?

Maintenance seems pretty good on both. Each have great records, but for the Crown - seems that the marina did a better job with maintenance and storage than the owner did over the summers. That said, it's got all new bellows, joints, bearings, cables, etc. I get a 30 day warranty on the Crown with no water test, but I get a water test on the Chris with no warranty.
 

Rookster

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I friggin' love my self bailing deck. I have a wash down pump and can just hose the dirt down the drains whenever I want.

So no fear of water going getting into the bailing holes (can't remember the technical term), and into the lower/under section of the deck, causing rot in the stringers? Also, how can you be sure that those hoses/pipes/tubes are not leaking internally - any way to check or easily fix?
 

Rookster

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And is an 18ft 2200lb Bowrider more seaworthy than the 17ft at 2350lbs? What's more important for taking on 3ft waves - weight or length?
 

Rookster

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Any other thoughts on foam-filled fiberglass stringers...are they rot proof?
 

Maclin

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The 37 year old boat I just sold still had solid floor, still flat. I pulled up the carpet and was amazed, all original. Just sayin', something happened on the one you described that allowed the protection on that floor to be breached and the wood reacted. You won't know for sure until the carpet is pulled and you get the reveal. Might all be ok for a long time or a short time or need to be fixed right away.

I have only been on deck boats that had the self bailing deck, kind of a deck boat's hallmark. Pretty cool the way the water has a place to go overboard instead of just soaking in and making it's way to the bilge. Scuppers are your friend.
 

Rookster

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The 37 year old boat I just sold still had solid floor, still flat. I pulled up the carpet and was amazed, all original. Just sayin', something happened on the one you described that allowed the protection on that floor to be breached and the wood reacted. You won't know for sure until the carpet is pulled and you get the reveal. Might all be ok for a long time or a short time or need to be fixed right away.

I have only been on deck boats that had the self bailing deck, kind of a deck boat's hallmark. Pretty cool the way the water has a place to go overboard instead of just soaking in and making it's way to the bilge. Scuppers are your friend.

Ok, makes sense. Not to dwell on this, but just want to be sure that you're sticking with your opinion. The slight - and I do mean slight - bulged, non-flat areas in the boat, are not easily noticed. You can't even see from a picture. I only noticed after I was down on my hands and knees. They are about a foot in diameter, behind each front seat, to the rear of the floor. They are on either side of a hatch at the centre rear in the floor (not the ski locker - think it's the gas tank hatch), just in front of the bench seat. If nothing else though, I guess they are not random, but rather caused by something in particular. That's the thing about boat buying. It's not like cars where you can see everything everywhere on the car. With a boat, you really have no idea what lurks beneath.
 

ezmobee

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So no fear of water going getting into the bailing holes (can't remember the technical term), and into the lower/under section of the deck, causing rot in the stringers? Also, how can you be sure that those hoses/pipes/tubes are not leaking internally - any way to check or easily fix?


I have a wood-free hull. Also check out how high the outlets are from the water line. As for plumbing there is very little because the floor drains are very close to the outlets.

20160618_133459-1.jpg
 

Rookster

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No Title

I have a wood-free hull. Also check out how high the outlets are from the water line. As for plumbing there is very little because the floor drains are very close to the outlets.
20160618_133459-1.jpg
Here pics that show how far holes are from waterline: Pink arrows point to green circles which surround each outlet.
 

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ezmobee

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Here pics that show how far holes are from waterline: Pink arrows point to green circles which surround each outlet.

The lower ones are the deck drains. The uppers are likely cooler/compartment drains and bilge pump outlet.
 

Jarcher3

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Just based on the floor construction, i would choose the chris craft. its floor is designed to shed water with no pumping or anything, whereas the crownline(while being generally well built boats) has carpet over wood which holds in water. when i was looking, i only looked at boats with snap in carpet.

as far as the stringers, one selling point to me of my larson when i bought it was the VEC hull, which was a wood free lower construction i believe.

Where will you be taking these boats that seaworthiness is concerned? generally longer would be better, but a foot may not be too noticeable.

in terms of the weight, again when i was looking i drove a four winns 20' and my current larson 19' and the lighter hull felt better. not to say that lower weight is better but that the FW rode heavy and clunky and creaky... the main thing is the take both for a sea trial, see how they ride and feel. make sure they feel solid.
 

Maclin

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Regarding my opinion on the buckled floor, it was about the condition as described and not any particular boat. In my opinion, Yes, an uneven floor is at the least a yellow flag with a red tinge.

What size/model engines do these two choices have.
 

Maclin

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Just more opinions...in general I like snap-in carpets, self bailing decks and trailers with brakes.
 
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