Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

[surfduke]

Hi All.... I am changing a water pump for the first time ever on an outboard (1990 90hp rude) and I'd like some advice, if you would be so kind! (I have the origional service manual and the claymore manual)<br /><br />1. Are there subtitutes that I can use and buy at NAPA for these items (I live in small town with no boat shop)?<br /><br />*OMC Triple Guard Grease<br />*OMG Gasket Sealing Compound<br />*OMC Adhesive M<br />*OMC Moly Lube<br />*OMC Nut Lock<br /><br />2. When I take the gear box off, does the lubricant come out, or is it self contained in the unit?? I just changed it like 2 weeks ago, I'd like to avoid it if possible. If not, then there's no choice.<br /><br />3. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the gearcase and the mid-section where it bolts on? or is there some kind of liquid gasket I'm suposed to use?<br /><br />Thanks a lot for the help guys. I'm a noober with this stuff. I used to take my boat in to have stuff done, but you all inspired me to do it myself -- Therefore I ask dumb questions!<br /><br />Dennis

 

[ezeke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Question 1. Those items are available on line and can be shipped to you quickly. There have been many suggestions here as to good substitutes, try a search.<br /><br />Question 2. No, but keep the gearcase upright when working on the shift or if removing the seals below the water pump.<br /><br />Question 3. There is no gasket. There are several rubber seals, but they are on the shafts and tubes. One that is sometimes missed is the large one on the exhaust: Part # 0320961 - #30 on the BRP Exhaust Housing Digram for your motor.<br /><br /> Parts Diagrams

 

[surfduke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Thanks for the quick response...<br /><br />"There are several rubber seals, but they are on the shafts and tubes. One that is sometimes missed is the large one on the exhaust: Part # 0320961 - #30 on the BRP Exhaust Housing Digram for your motor."<br /><br />Do I have to changes all of these during a water pump change? Sorry, but I am a noob and I just don't want to screw up and have it coast me 10'x the amount to fix it.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Definitely not, unless they are missing or damaged. <br /><br />Some seals come with the water pump kit, replace all of those. Just observe where all of the seals are and make sure that they are in place before you put the gearcase back on.<br /><br />The biggest hassle you face is not allowing the shift shaft to be rotated if possible. It is also really good to have an extra set of hands available when you are replacing the unit.

 

[surfduke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Thanks Ezeke, I appreciate it!<br /><br />Here's what my research got me... am I on the right track?<br /><br />OMC Triple Guard Grease = marine grade litium grease.<br /><br />OMG Gasket Sealing Compound = Regular gasket sealing compound. Comes in a can with a small brush in its screw off cap.<br /><br />OMC Adhesive M = Marprox Sealer 1000, also available as Boat Armor Sealer 1000.<br /><br /><br />OMC Moly Lube = Any anti corrosive lube/grease.<br /><br />OMC Nut Lock = ? is there a permatex product that works for this?<br /><br />Does anyone use Permetex copper anti-seize when you before you put nuts and bolts back on?<br /><br />Sorry if thse are dumb questions, but I'd rather be safe then sorry!

 

[KYHunter2]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

I use anti seize with teflon, lock tite red/strong, locktite blue / medium. I like the new gel locktite in a stick like deodorant, very easy to work with. Where lower unit and mid section meet I use Gasket sealer, its good on bolts too. <br /> As far as where to use what pertaining to bolts, it depends on where the bolts are. I use notinhg on head bolts or crankcase bearing allen bolts.<br /> Gel- seal on lower crank bolts. <br /> <br /> Good-Luck,<br /> KYHunter

 

[ezeke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Loc Tite blue is good enough for most applications, I think Red is too strong unless it's absolutely a peace of mind issue like reed and throttle screws or skeg covers.<br /><br />I'm a true believer in OMC Triple Guard. I buy it for my grease gun in bulk from ishopmarine.com (along with most of the other OMC maintenance stuff). I even use it on my trailer.<br /><br />On anything (bolts, nuts & screws} that I'm going to periodically remove, I use the the NAPA-Permatex anti-seize lubricant. 765-1674 8 Oz. at the store.

 

[danvillemarine]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

KYHUNTER2 were are you located in KY. Just curious in making conections within the state. I am located around the Herrington Lake area and run a boat shop there.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

If you are installing a full kit w/housing, new housing bolts will come with the kit. They will have a locking...."stuff" already on them...can't remember what it's called. This takes the place of any thread locking compound. A good idea, also, is to coat the bolts with gasket sealing compound also. This will help prevent them from corroding in.<br /><br />No seals come with the kit so you sholdn't have to worry about losing any gear lube if you turn the gear case over.<br /><br />You can use gasket sealing compund as a sub for Adhesive "M". The adhesive is used to hold the housing oring in place for installation. Use the gasket compound and let it set up a while before installing the housing. Give the housing oring a top coat before installing the housing.<br /><br />Use a dab of grease to hold the impeller wedge key in place. Dab a bit around where the impeller goes also. This will help keep the impeller from "seizing" to the shaft.<br /><br />Not that the wedge key wide end will point toward the front of the lower unit when installed on the shaft. Rotate the impeller into the housing before installing the housing and impeller on the shaft and note where the impeller wedge key groove is. This will help in locating the key groove in the impeller onto the wedge key on the shaft.<br /><br />Some guys will try and put the impeller on the shaft and then the housing....I have found when you do that, most often than not, when you try to push down on the housing while turning the drive shaft to get the housing on the impeller, the housing oring will pull out of it's groove.<br /><br />And also remember when you put the impeller into the housing, turn it in, in the direction of the drive shaft rotation which is clockwise.

 

[surfduke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Thanks for the help..... I got a waterpump kit from Sierra, I'll try to do ths job this week.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Let us know the results of you work!! I want to do this but am very loath to start. With all the corroded bolts I have come across on my engine, I worry about getting the lower unit off!

 

[surfduke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Mark... Start spraying some PB Blaster on those bolts. Also, do you have a service manual? I have the OMC service and the Clymer manuals. They have pictures... I can usaully follow pictures... hehe! I'll let you know how it goes... and maybe cronicle it with some pics.

 

[surfduke]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

Water pump went perfectly. Thanks for all the advice guys. It's peeing like teenage boys at a kegger party! The most difficult part was figuring out how to get the shifting rod disconnected and reconnected. Other then that, twas a breeze with all your great advice! Thank you everyone!

 

[richl3]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

I am trying to replace a water pump on a 1992/28hp after unbolting the lower unit I am having a hard time pulling the lower unit off, it comes down about 3/4 of an inch. Do I have to open the little inspection plae above and loosen one of the two bolt heads that are in there? First time at this, I am pretty mechanicle but never done this before. I do not have a manual and was woundering if this is too hard to do without one. I have been doing some reading online on how to go about this.
Thanks richl3

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Changing Water Pump,,, Need advice

I am trying to replace a water pump on a 1992/28hp after unbolting the lower unit I am having a hard time pulling the lower unit off, it comes down about 3/4 of an inch. Do I have to open the little inspection plae above and loosen one of the two bolt heads that are in there? First time at this, I am pretty mechanicle but never done this before. I do not have a manual and was woundering if this is too hard to do without one. I have been doing some reading online on how to go about this.
Thanks richl3

Yes. After opening the access plate, completely remove the lower of the two screws in there that hold the shift linkage together. You don't need to mess with the top one. Be careful when assembling to get the shift linkage back together correctly. There is a notch that the bolt has to go through in order to keep the linkage from pulling apart, which will happen in the middle of the lake the first time out.
A manual is pretty much a necessity to work on these motors.